Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread
Fegbri46, good luck getting the old ones out. Best advice I could give is try and compress the housing externally (to take the stress off the screws) and then if allen wrench deosn't grip, try and drill/ dremmel out in-line holes on the head to be able to use a flat head screwdriver.
When replacing, use HPI 2.5 x 12mm flat head screws (P/N HPIZ449) which have been referenced several times in this and other SCTE threads. (You will need 2 packs.)
When replacing, use HPI 2.5 x 12mm flat head screws (P/N HPIZ449) which have been referenced several times in this and other SCTE threads. (You will need 2 packs.)
Why 2 packs? They come in 10/pack.
Exactly... unfortunately you'll need to dip into that 2nd pack to be able to do all 3 diffs...
If you need screws that cost $3 - $4 per pack of 10, I'd get 2 or 3 packs anyways just to make sure you've always got 'em when you need them, even if you only need 2 right now. That's how I got my Lift-n-Lok case filled, and that's why I hardly ever have a problem at the track anymore
Moderator
iTrader: (20)
I know these seem kind of spendy but they are well worth the peace of mind in this hobby. You can get them cheaper and obviously you can get them more expensive. These are what I have and they work for every screw I have ever had stripped out.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/150757063593?lpid=82
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/150757063593?lpid=82
Gotcha!! Thanks!
Also, the stock diff housing is COVERED in thick grease or the ring gear and pinion. Do I need ALL that grease? It is a MESS in there! Can I just apply a thin layer on the ring gear itself?
Also, the stock diff housing is COVERED in thick grease or the ring gear and pinion. Do I need ALL that grease? It is a MESS in there! Can I just apply a thin layer on the ring gear itself?
Fegbri46, good luck getting the old ones out. Best advice I could give is try and compress the housing externally (to take the stress off the screws) and then if allen wrench deosn't grip, try and drill/ dremmel out in-line holes on the head to be able to use a flat head screwdriver.
When replacing, use HPI 2.5 x 12mm flat head screws (P/N HPIZ449) which have been referenced several times in this and other SCTE threads. (You will need 2 packs.)
When replacing, use HPI 2.5 x 12mm flat head screws (P/N HPIZ449) which have been referenced several times in this and other SCTE threads. (You will need 2 packs.)
Tech Master
iTrader: (66)
I know these seem kind of spendy but they are well worth the peace of mind in this hobby. You can get them cheaper and obviously you can get them more expensive. These are what I have and they work for every screw I have ever had stripped out.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/150757063593?lpid=82
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/150757063593?lpid=82
Tech Master
iTrader: (66)
If you do regular maintenance say every 50 to 60 lipos use just a little grease on the ring and pinion. If you bash mud and water or run it until gears break the more grease approach is best IMO.
Moderator
iTrader: (20)
If you are racing, you will definitely want to follow through and use the actual diff oil in specific weights. It drastically effects how the car handles. If you are using the standard SCTE 1.0 diff housings expect them to leak a fair amount. When you have an opportunity you should upgrade to the HD housings. Mine just flat out don't leak after the upgrade. A good place to start in general is 5,5,3 (5000 in front, 5000 in middle and 3000 in the rear). High bite bump them all up 2K.
If you are racing, you will definitely want to follow through and use the actual diff oil in specific weights. It drastically effects how the car handles. If you are using the standard SCTE 1.0 diff housings expect them to leak a fair amount. When you have an opportunity you should upgrade to the HD housings. Mine just flat out don't leak after the upgrade. A good place to start in general is 5,5,3 (5000 in front, 5000 in middle and 3000 in the rear). High bite bump them all up 2K.
No hip in stock so got 12mm Traxxas (looks like larger hex) and the protec hardened 10mm. I'll try them both and hopefully one will be superior. Also got the HD cases for front and rear. Thanks guys!!
Has anyone installed the MIP Pro4mance kit? any opinions?
Tech Master
iTrader: (66)
Lots of info on the Pro4mance chassis so just have to search for it. If you buy a kit new be sure it has the newer #7 bypass shock valves. You must have the harden shock bodies to run those pistons or they wear out fast. Been using the Pro4mance chassis since it came out and now use it on the Pro8. It works well and MIP Matt has lot of setup sheets for it on the MIP website. The 2.0 chassis upgrade is also a good option. Not a lot of savings one way or the other, but the MIP does offer a lot of parts that make upgrading a 1.0 truck easy. I did that and the HD diff cases as parts wore out so it takes the sting out of buying a new 2.0 and getting the same or better performance. Hope that helps.
Thanks Thunder. Thats exactly the info I was looking for.