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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 07-24-2014, 10:23 PM
  #46246  
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I apologize in advance if this is the wrong place to ask this, but I was hoping someone had some insight into my heat issue...

Here's what I'm running:
- HW 120A SCT Pro (with fan)
- Castle 1410 3800kv (with fan)
- 7200mah 2s
- 17/40 gearing

The ESC is set pretty mellow - punch set to 4 out of 9, timing is set at 0

Today was my first day out on a track (indoor clay), and the temps were running high enough to cause concern. Since this was my first day, I was definitely taking it easy, and not going balls to the wall.
I recently purchased, and rebuilt the truck - HD diff housings, new diff internals, 5/5/3 diff fluid, HD outdrives. Everything was smooth as butter.

After putting the truck through the 7200mah pack, the temps were at ~150 for the ESC, and 170 for the motor.

Other than gearing, is there anything you can think of that might be causing my heat issues? From what I've read, others with a similar setup run at 150 all day long...

Thanks!

Last edited by lobuzz311; 07-24-2014 at 10:24 PM. Reason: clarification
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Old 07-25-2014, 12:06 AM
  #46247  
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Quick question. How can I tell(visually) if the scte is a 2.0? I'm planning on purchasing a scte from someone who claims its a 2.0. Thanx in advance.
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Old 07-25-2014, 12:13 AM
  #46248  
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Originally Posted by lobuzz311
Other than gearing, is there anything you can think of that might be causing my heat issues? From what I've read, others with a similar setup run at 150 all day long...
Thanks!
I know it's not what you wanted to hear, but have you tried a lower pinion (16T) gear, especially as it is an indoor track? That was the only thing that stood out to me.
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Old 07-25-2014, 12:23 AM
  #46249  
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Originally Posted by melski415
Quick question. How can I tell(visually) if the scte is a 2.0? I'm planning on purchasing a scte from someone who claims its a 2.0. Thanx in advance.
If you do some Google image seraches it is quite obvious as the internal layout is totally different, but here are some key points in case it is a roller:

1) SCTE 2.0 has no receiver box next to the steering servo
2) SCTE 2.0 has no battery tray and velcro straps - only foam padding and a plastic screw down
3) SCTE 2.0 has the ESC at the front, with long wires down the middle towards the motor
4) SCTE 2.0 has angular diamond shape side guards
5) SCTE 2.0 has a gold coloured chassis (but then the TLR kit for the SCTE 1.0 was grey/gold)

SCTE 2.0



SCTE 1.0
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Old 07-25-2014, 12:28 AM
  #46250  
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Great. Thx. I was purchasing in the morn. So I had to act fast. Thx again
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Old 07-25-2014, 05:40 AM
  #46251  
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Yeah lobuzz, I'm guessing you are way overgeared. Indoors I run 13-14/40. Even with punch turned down these things are heat generators. They aren't really meant to run to lipo cut off, especially for a big 7200 pack. You might want to time your excursions on the track to match your main time.
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Old 07-25-2014, 12:11 PM
  #46252  
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What would you folks pay for a scte 1.0 with stock except 1/8 castle motor/esc with artr no battery? It's looks to be used quite a bit.
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Old 07-25-2014, 01:03 PM
  #46253  
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Originally Posted by melski415
What would you folks pay for a scte 1.0 with stock except 1/8 castle motor/esc with artr no battery? It's looks to be used quite a bit.
FWIW, Back in April I bought a SCTE 1.0 roller no electronics for $225 shipped.
It came with a new body, new tires (PROLINE BOW-TIES W/DE RACING WHEELS), several spare parts.

I probably paid too much, but I am really happy with the truck. I am having fun with it!

Hope that helps give you a source for comparison.

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Old 07-25-2014, 01:17 PM
  #46254  
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If it doesn't have the TLR Tuning kit I wouldn't pay more then a couple hundred for it. And thats its it comes ARTR. The tuning kit is the biggest point of adjustability to these trucks without doing chassis or the 2.0 upgrades in my opinion. I traded a new Wraith off for a used truck that had some pretty good wear, but the electronics were good and it had the tuning kit to it so its given me a place to build from.

Last edited by Laker67; 07-25-2014 at 02:36 PM.
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Old 07-25-2014, 03:15 PM
  #46255  
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Originally Posted by eddomak
I know it's not what you wanted to hear, but have you tried a lower pinion (16T) gear, especially as it is an indoor track? That was the only thing that stood out to me.
Originally Posted by bds81175
Yeah lobuzz, I'm guessing you are way overgeared. Indoors I run 13-14/40. Even with punch turned down these things are heat generators. They aren't really meant to run to lipo cut off, especially for a big 7200 pack. You might want to time your excursions on the track to match your main time.
Thanks guys.

It's not that I didn't want to hear gearing, I just (wrongly!) assumed that the gearing was fine. The rest of the truck was pretty decently dialed by the guy I bought it from, so I just figured this was properly done. Turns out, not so much. Noob lesson learned...
I pulled up the gearing chart that Castle has on the motor's product page, and it says to use a 10-13t pinion with the 40t spur. My truck had a 17t!!!

I guess this combo COULD work on a very fast outdoor track, where you get LOTS of airflow, but not so much on my tight, indoor track (especially on a hot day).

I ordered a set of Novak pinions that should bring the temps down, drilled some airflow holes into the windshield, and have some burly airflow fans in mind in case those don't do enough.
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Old 07-25-2014, 04:24 PM
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If the truck is too worn you might consider just saving a bit more and getting the 2.0. Once you start looking at all the things that can wear out and eventually fail your costs will shoot by the cost of a new truck in a hurry.
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Old 07-25-2014, 08:57 PM
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Originally Posted by bds81175
If the truck is too worn you might consider just saving a bit more and getting the 2.0. Once you start looking at all the things that can wear out and eventually fail your costs will shoot by the cost of a new truck in a hurry.

+1
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Old 07-25-2014, 10:25 PM
  #46258  
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Originally Posted by bds81175
If the truck is too worn you might consider just saving a bit more and getting the 2.0. Once you start looking at all the things that can wear out and eventually fail your costs will shoot by the cost of a new truck in a hurry.
True that. I'm fairly new to racing these. I'm just looking for a good truck for the track. Something with lots of adjustability.
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Old 07-25-2014, 11:11 PM
  #46259  
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When you rebuild the hd diffs, do you put anything on the blue gaskets (green slime, etc)? Doing the change to diff fluid. Thanks!
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Old 07-26-2014, 06:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Fegbri46
When you rebuild the hd diffs, do you put anything on the blue gaskets (green slime, etc)? Doing the change to diff fluid. Thanks!
Nothing is needed with the HD diff cases. Only the blue gasket.
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