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Old 06-05-2012, 08:40 PM
  #35146  
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Originally Posted by Rockthecatbox21
Do you guys do regular bearing maintenance? I clean my bearings out after every run using an exacto knife to take the bearing seals off. Then i use a bearing blaster to clean out all the junk in the bearing, and after the seals are clean i lube the bearing back up with acer racing bearing oil. Goes a long way to keeping your bearings in working condition. I mainly clean only the diff bearings front and rear and clean the other ones occasionally.
I just buy the $1 bearings from Avid and replace them regularly. If I bought the expensive ones I think your method would be the way to go.
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Old 06-05-2012, 08:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Jake C6R
I used silicone but have read that a lot of guys use CA also, you just have to make sure there is none left over that dries on top of the insert or it will throw off the gear alignment. And that the insert is fully seated.
Think im going to like most guys did and use the rtv silicone stuff. I did notice that my center diff doesn't leak (or leak as much) as far as i know by using the hd center outdrives.
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Old 06-05-2012, 09:24 PM
  #35148  
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Originally Posted by TCCustoms
ok, heres a question for all you guys that race....
I have 2 lipos and 2 nimhs but dont use nimhs and trying to get rid of them and will buy 2 more lipos when the time comes
How many batteries do you have that you use with this truck at the races?
3 quality batteries minimum

Originally Posted by mkl
This battery discussion is perfect timing. Just today I contacted Hobby King about a possible warranty. One of my Tunigy Nanotech batteries has stopped balancing the cells. I inquired about it and the response I got the warranty is only 30 days (it is 5 months old with only 10-15 cycles on it). I understand and accept that the warranty is what it is, but I thought Hobby King would at least be willing to inspect it. But no, so I guess it is buyer beware. In my opinion Turnigy packs are not only inexpensive but cheap too.
Venom batts have a lifetime warranty.a little more expensive up front but worth every penny!!!!10 min mains with full punch start to finish.This can be an expensive Hobby I know!!!!
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Old 06-05-2012, 09:41 PM
  #35149  
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Originally Posted by BmainStar
3 quality batteries minimum

Venom batts have a lifetime warranty.a little more expensive up front but worth every penny!!!!10 min mains with full punch start to finish.This can be an expensive Hobby I know!!!!
I saw a venom battery drop a cell at the track the other day. He did however get it replaced which im assuming was the warranty. Does venom charge to replace them even if they're under warranty?
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Old 06-05-2012, 09:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Rockthecatbox21
I saw a venom battery drop a cell at the track the other day. He did however get it replaced which im assuming was the warranty. Does venom charge to replace them even if they're under warranty?
They have a one year warranty pretty much unless you blow it up or leave it hooked up for a week and kill the cells it will be covered no questions! They have excellant customer service,After one year it will be 30 percent off a replacement batt even if You kill it!!!Love em!!!!
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Old 06-05-2012, 09:55 PM
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I believe Venom offers a full one year warranty. The best news is that one now takes a picture and sends it without sending the battery. I guess you have to have your receipt as well. After one year, I believe they give you a hefty discount..check their site for the particulars.. A friend of mine has Venoms and I read their site a while ago... I would go with Venom or Pro-Match Racing as they offer great warranties. I cannot afford to use the China no warranty batteries as they end up costing more coin in the long run....
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Old 06-05-2012, 10:16 PM
  #35152  
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Originally Posted by SouthFloridaApp
I believe Venom offers a full one year warranty. The best news is that one now takes a picture and sends it without sending the battery. I guess you have to have your receipt as well. After one year, I believe they give you a hefty discount..check their site for the particulars.. A friend of mine has Venoms and I read their site a while ago... I would go with Venom or Pro-Match Racing as they offer great warranties. I cannot afford to use the China no warranty batteries as they end up costing more coin in the long run....
I've used the "china" turnigy 40C 5000's for over a year now with no problems. They work so well i don't think they need a warranty.
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Old 06-05-2012, 11:59 PM
  #35153  
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if my novak 4s esc comes in the mail today i will get it all wired up to my novak 6.5 motor and run my scte on a pair of fully charged 2s lipo batteries i have a feeling it will be crazy stupid fast it will be very interesting to find out.
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Old 06-06-2012, 12:39 AM
  #35154  
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Default Pinion 3mm

Can someone tell me if the Module 1.0-pinions of Losi (LOSA3573 13T) are suited for a motor with a 1/8" (3mm) shaft?

Or are there pinions, other than Losi, available, keeping the 1/8"-shaft in mind?
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Old 06-06-2012, 02:57 AM
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Originally Posted by boba.slave
Can someone tell me if the Module 1.0-pinions of Losi (LOSA3573 13T) are suited for a motor with a 1/8" (3mm) shaft?

Or are there pinions, other than Losi, available, keeping the 1/8"-shaft in mind?
You will need an 5mm adapter to run the losi mod1 pinions if you have a 1/8 shaft. There are several places including amainhobbies that had 1/8 mod1 pinions available. It works either way though.
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Old 06-06-2012, 04:01 AM
  #35156  
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Default reedy 65c lipo

there is two lipo left..

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Associated-R...item53ed3e4781
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Old 06-06-2012, 04:20 AM
  #35157  
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Originally Posted by Jake C6R
I just buy the $1 bearings from Avid and replace them regularly. If I bought the expensive ones I think your method would be the way to go.
I have adopted this method as well. Avid has full set of bearings (22)for the SCTE for $22. The only bearings I run ceramic are in the motor and all you need is a paper towel for those. For all of you with the Tekin Pro4 motors, check out the video from Randy Pike on how to maintain them. Even though it's on the T8 motor same idea applies to the Pro4.

Randy Pike - Tekin T8/Pro4 Maintenance Video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8xGnC...e_gdata_player
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Old 06-06-2012, 04:30 AM
  #35158  
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Originally Posted by Rockthecatbox21
Do you guys do regular bearing maintenance? I clean my bearings out after every run using an exacto knife to take the bearing seals off. Then i use a bearing blaster to clean out all the junk in the bearing, and after the seals are clean i lube the bearing back up with acer racing bearing oil. Goes a long way to keeping your bearings in working condition. I mainly clean only the diff bearings front and rear and clean the other ones occasionally.
Same here! I had run a practice pack to test out tires before the main to know what I should run and the truck seemed to be working great. I always test binding in the drive train before putting the body on and that's where I saw it stop immediately when I left off the throttle. I'm glad I'm learning about this stuff now though. I really enjoy driving this truck and am almost there on what's needed for regular maintenance to avoid issues in the future.
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Old 06-06-2012, 04:39 AM
  #35159  
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Originally Posted by 8ight-e
You will need an 5mm adapter to run the losi mod1 pinions if you have a 1/8 shaft. There are several places including amainhobbies that had 1/8 mod1 pinions available. It works either way though.
I've found some Ofna mod 1.0 pinions that are 3mm. Can they be used with the SCTE? Can somebody confirm this?
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Old 06-06-2012, 05:00 AM
  #35160  
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Originally Posted by BmainStar
3 quality batteries minimum
I get by with one per car. A decent charger should be able to charge up the pack before your next heat. This isn't the days of NIMH anymore.
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