spider882009

iTrader: (7)

That man can drive!!! He whipped us @ the RAC this year!!! I have great respect for him!!! He even let me borrow a set of tires. And @ the end of the Race Against Cancer he gave his Nitro Buggy away in a raffle!!!

Kilbatrosas

iTrader: (4)

I have a question: what did you mean "large track" and "medium or small track"
My local track: lenght: ~270m and width ~4m

8ight-e

iTrader: (58)

50-60' = small
100' range = med
180'+ = large

At least that is how I look at them,, 270m= ? got photos what is that a motocross track? LOL

If you meant 70m=229' then yes it's a "large" track iMO, if you meant 27m ~88' I'd call it a med size track.

dgrobe2112

iTrader: (33)

while i agree with you that the SCTE truck is a good truck.. for the first weekend.. then you gotta replace everything it seems..

i love my truck.. however.. i got more money tied up into this truck, with hopups.. and spares and all that than i do in my 1/8 scale..

from the TLR tuning kit, to a new chassis, updated diff out drives, hard anodized ball ends, upgraded shock bodies.. to having to rebuild drive shafts constantly with new stub axels, upgraded front drive axels..

it just wears out so fast..

Now your telling me there is new diffs?

my truck is nothing like it was stock.. it would have been cheaper to buy an ebuggy and convert it using DE 17mm wheels..

but it is still the best choice out there..

dtr

OP means the total track length (or possibly the lentgh of the racing line) is 270m ~900'.

8ight-e

iTrader: (58)

The only items from box you have to have iMO are the carbon towers and a rear set of springs and a set of tires and the sway kit. The rest is just fluff and doesn't typically speed you up on the track much if at all.. while the chassis is nice again not necessary. Most of the TLR kit is bling, even the hinge pin holders typically are set at the 'stock' settings :P TBH id get the tekno front/rear center cvd's or the kingheadz pin retainers as my first hop up past those.

PS If your diff's work don't get the new housings until you need to service them, when you service the diff's just slap on the new housings.. they are cheap come with the seals and you are done for $21.

Casper

iTrader: (34)

You have to make them out of 22 pistons.

http://losiracing.blogspot.com/2012/...e-pistons.html
http://www.tlracing.com/Products/Def...ProdID=TLR5090

We used #3 (stock) in front and #4 in the rear
http://www.losi.com/Products/Feature...rodId=LOSB2909


10K in the center is a lot. I would go probably 5 in the front and 3 in the rear.

dgrobe2112

iTrader: (33)

really.. by the time you buy 2 towers.. might as well buy the TLR kit.. and seriously.. what racer doesnt like having adjustments.. also.. i am not in stock settings in the toe and antisquat..

another thing.. the stock ball ends trash up and loosen up very quicly.. then the truck is sloppy.. and sometimes.. the ball just falls out of the camber link.. just my experiece..

The stub axels on the front wear out quickly.. and mess up the pins.. i do have the Teckno front axels.. havent done the rear..

however.. they need to be done.. i did buy new couplers, pins and stub axels.. but the dang axel itself has a half moon shape in it on the front side.. and needs to be done..

i run the quite a bit.... and once these things are done.. the truck is much better..

The truck is great.. handles great.. and the best i have driven.. i just think all these upgrades while not needed for the first couple of weekends.. far exceeds what i am acustom to.. like i said.. i got more money in my SCTE than i do in my 1/8 buggy..

dgrobe2112

iTrader: (33)

on the losi 22 piston pack.. what do the numbers correspond to in mm.

rcgod

iTrader: (33)

Try version 1.25.

chucko

iTrader: (3)

which is better for this truck. square or round front and rear braces..??
I was thinking round for more side to side flex. am I right in thinking this ?
Thanks

hacker07

iTrader: (13)

Please keep in mind, when the SCTE came out 2 years ago, the 4wd SC class really wasnt all that big. We had to release seomthing that the general population wanted at that time. Obviously things have changed and trust me, we are changing with them...

Casper

iTrader: (34)

The numbers corrospond to numbered drill bits.

Here is a good chart with all the info.

http://bobmay.astronomy.net/misc/drillchart.htm

8ight-e

iTrader: (58)

Just saying two shock towers = 48.00, losi kit = 115, while it's a value for sure it doesn't speed you up and isn't a 'must have'; just an opinion.

As far as losi slop.. the sloppyier it is the faster you are As long as those ends stay on and don't slide off the ball completely, I say let it alone. Replace the $5 plastic end set once they fall off the ball ends (front typically wears not so much the rear), after that the next time replace both the balls and plastics (don't bother w/ hd imo, they don't seem to last any longer certainly don't add any speed if you are trying to keep costs down). Typically you can run 1/2 a season or more on 1 set of plastic ends provided you don't crash a ton. 1 year for balls in most cases. Now if you are in the pipe and wrecking on every lap, there is no predicting what parts will wear faster.

Axles.. easily 1 full season of use if not more. You will need to rotate into the extra set of holes when one set stretches but there is no reason to need to swap these parts out often. I've had sets last 2 years, but again I only race and don't get into a ton of wrecks.

I ran the stock chassis for two years, won a ton of races w/ it. I needed a new one tried BCE, tried losi, tried the Bump version settled on the bump at least for me with the long brace it's the best out there (again imo).

In 3+ years I"ve never broken a rear hub; alum = bling at least for me
In 3+ years the only parts (excluding wear parts) I've actually had to replace are front and rear bumpers. The front has never broke but does bend out of position over time. The rear doesn't have as many issues now but for a while they were aweful.

If you run the tekno front rear center shafts you don't have issues, if you want to keep the stock center shafts make sure you run the kingheadz retainers, it will assure trouble free operation, again pin can be rotated over time if the hole stretches.

The tekno front center does last a ton longer than the losi but even the losi will get you nearly a full season before the pin wears too much (pin in the center diff outdrive). I added the king heads front dual bearing and not having wobble does also help reduce pin wear.

I'm glad to hear you have gotten use out of your hinge pin holders though.. mine have been in the stock position since day one. My setup is dialed typically throws the fastest laps of any truck (any brand) locally so I'm leaving well enough alone.

My only point was it doesn't have to be that expensive, unless you want it to. BTW w/ 1/8 e-buggy I agree, once you are in it's a pretty low cost to run weekly, most high end kits are tough as nails (may cost a touch more than the scte), start up cost on electrical components is double vs a scte w/ $180 xerun combo and a $50-80 2cell lipo but after that it's pretty cheap (clean and race). Move into 1/8 e-truggy and it's another story... tires & rear diff's alone will chew up a budget pretty quick

rcgod

iTrader: (33)

Well said 8ight−e!