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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 06-05-2012, 07:14 PM
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Ugh, diffs. Has anyone stuck with the stock grease or gone back to it due to leaks and/or maintenance issues with fluids?
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Old 06-05-2012, 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by TCCustoms
why is it that all the nano batteries have the bullet plugs and not direct wired...i hate these bullet plugs and would rather not run this type of battery but if they are decent batteries i might have to start thinking about switching
I love it this way. They stack/store nice, and once you solder your bullet connectors on your ESC you never have to solder another plug - they just go right into the battery. You also don't have the balance plug dangling around and subject to damage.

I think that once you start using them you'll appreciate it.
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Old 06-05-2012, 07:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Jake C6R
You guys with OCD will appreciate this one. So I tear down all my diffs to remove the grease and refill with diff fluid. Used rebuild kits for each one, used silicone on the inserts, put all new bearings throughout including wheel bearings. I was not totally happy with the way the outdrives looked. Not too much wear from the axles but some of the black plating finish was chipping off the shafts in a couple spots. I thought it was OK and went ahead and put everything back together.

Well after thinking (actually obsessing) about it for a little while I decided I didn't like the way the stock outdrives looked and it was going to drive me nuts so...ordered the new lightened HD outdrives! Everything taken apart again and will be draining and refilling my nice new diff fluid...again!!! I seriously need help!

But I must admit I have gotten very fast at the tear down and rebuild!
Get help
And it's CDO (alphabetical order)
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Old 06-05-2012, 07:28 PM
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Originally Posted by RC_Woody
+1 on charge - still use them for charging.

+1000 on not using them in your car, I melted the case around the negative lead on 3 different 1 month old nano tech 6.6's. and the negative lead would come un-soldered.

Switch to TLR Losi high performance plugs and haven't had an issue since.

Bird cages just don't cut it with that much power draw.

Woody
I had a Nanotech melt that exact same way. So is it a connector/resistance type issue??

The odd thing is that I switched FROM a birdcage to one of the higher quality (I thought) pronged connectors so that I could have my wires at a 90 degree angle. The very next race day I melted a pack.

I switched back to birdcage, where I've never had an issue.
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Old 06-05-2012, 07:37 PM
  #35135  
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Originally Posted by larlev
http://www.promatchracing.com/products.php?cat=21

Sorry, they are out of stock also. My bad
The good Promatch lipos are in stock I think. I have 2 of these http://www.promatchracing.com/prodde...680070C&cat=21 and they are great batteries. They run cooler than my Nano 6600mah lipos and they dont swell at all running very hard with a pro4 4600. The Nanos do swell a bit when it's warm out.
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Old 06-05-2012, 07:42 PM
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Originally Posted by chucko
I'M using 6800 70 C 2 cells from pro match.. Great batteries . They will last you better then ten min,. even if your spinning the tires. running pro 4 4600 X 8 65% current temps out at 137 motor and 97 speed control.
X2, I've had some problems with some Promatch batteries in the past but the new 70c ones are great batteries.
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Old 06-05-2012, 07:44 PM
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Originally Posted by McD44
Ugh, diffs. Has anyone stuck with the stock grease or gone back to it due to leaks and/or maintenance issues with fluids?
Not at all. In fact mine have never leaked for about a year. However, when switching to fluid I also installed the lightened/hardened outdrives, which apparantly are created with more accurate specs.

Where are yours leaking from? If from around the gasket, are you using new gaskets? I've heard some people double up on the gaskets, but it seems you shouldn't need to. If you re-use gaskets, suggest trying a very thin coat of RTV silicone sealant around the existing gasket. I'd only do this every other time. IE: alternate between sealant w/ old gasket, and new gaskets.

If leaking from the outdrives try glueing the hex insert to (a) seal it and (b) eliminate play. There are writeups on here that explain better than I.

Also, put grease in the groove/rings of your outdrive to better seal up. Where the o-ring goes lather it up with green slime or such, and put a generous coating behind the washer where the pin goes.

Probably easier to explain with pics/video, but hope that helps. If you do all that you should have leak-free diffs.
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Old 06-05-2012, 07:47 PM
  #35138  
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Originally Posted by larlev
Another one to look at is the ProMatch lipos. Have had real good results so far with the 2 I own. It is really hot here in Texas now and these have performed very well.
I have Nano's, gens ace, venoms, and promatch.

IMO, at the pricepoint we can all get nano's, gens ace for. If they last 6-8mths of hard use. It's a no-brainer money wise.
+1 on the pro match. I got 1 of the 70c packs about a month ago. I love my nanos but the pro match def wins. Great runtimes, awesome punch, and very consistent threw out the run. I also used their saddles when I had my SC10 4x4 and they were flawless. Awesome packs at a good price. A buddy of mine had 1 that slightly puffed, he called and they sent him 2 new packs no questions asked. American company, great customer service, awesome 1 year warranty and fast shipping. What more could you ask for? Well other than actually having them in stock.
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Old 06-05-2012, 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by KingdomRacer
Get help
And it's CDO (alphabetical order)
Exactly! Good one!
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Old 06-05-2012, 07:57 PM
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Originally Posted by goehm
Not at all. In fact mine have never leaked for about a year. However, when switching to fluid I also installed the lightened/hardened outdrives, which apparantly are created with more accurate specs.

Where are yours leaking from? If from around the gasket, are you using new gaskets? I've heard some people double up on the gaskets, but it seems you shouldn't need to. If you re-use gaskets, suggest trying a very thin coat of RTV silicone sealant around the existing gasket. I'd only do this every other time. IE: alternate between sealant w/ old gasket, and new gaskets.

If leaking from the outdrives try glueing the hex insert to (a) seal it and (b) eliminate play. There are writeups on here that explain better than I.

Also, put grease in the groove/rings of your outdrive to better seal up. Where the o-ring goes lather it up with green slime or such, and put a generous coating behind the washer where the pin goes.

Probably easier to explain with pics/video, but hope that helps. If you do all that you should have leak-free diffs.
yay thought my diffs never leaked. Guess i was wrong cuz last diff change i opened up the rear diff and hardly any fluid was left in there. Already purchased the HD outdrives for front and rear. Next time i change them (after this next race) i'll put those on. Just wanted to know if that alone will fix the problem or if i need to ca glue the inserts or just put grease around them?
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Old 06-05-2012, 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by electricRCrocks
Nice. You'll like the irony in this one then. I put on the TLR tuning kit, built the shocks with the new HA bodies, maintenanced the Tekin motor and cleaned and filled the center diff with fluid replacing the bearings along the way and put in the lightened outdrives. The only things I didn't get time to touch were the front and rear diffs. Right before the main at a big race recently after 5 quals over 2 days, the bearing in the rear on the driveshaft blew and melted the plastic in the housing with no replacements available so couldn't run. I had placed 6th in the A main. Lesson learned.
Oh man that had to hurt! I think sometimes I go overboard on replacing bearings too soon but after hearing stories like these I think not. A few weeks back I had the exact same thing happen on my 8-T 2.0, but that was only during practice. Amazing how fast a destroyed bearing can take out the diff case. There were even little crushed ball bearings inside the ring gear! LOL
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Old 06-05-2012, 08:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Jake C6R
Oh man that had to hurt! I think sometimes I go overboard on replacing bearings too soon but after hearing stories like these I think not. A few weeks back I had the exact same thing happen on my 8-T 2.0, but that was only during practice. Amazing how fast a destroyed bearing can take out the diff case. There were even little crushed ball bearings inside the ring gear! LOL
Do you guys do regular bearing maintenance? I clean my bearings out after every run using an exacto knife to take the bearing seals off. Then i use a bearing blaster to clean out all the junk in the bearing, and after the seals are clean i lube the bearing back up with acer racing bearing oil. Goes a long way to keeping your bearings in working condition. I mainly clean only the diff bearings front and rear and clean the other ones occasionally.
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Old 06-05-2012, 08:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Rockthecatbox21
yay thought my diffs never leaked. Guess i was wrong cuz last diff change i opened up the rear diff and hardly any fluid was left in there. Already purchased the HD outdrives for front and rear. Next time i change them (after this next race) i'll put those on. Just wanted to know if that alone will fix the problem or if i need to ca glue the inserts or just put grease around them?
I'd glue the inserts - no reason not to. CA is hard to work with cuz it dries so fast. RTV seems to be a good bet. Personally I like JB Weld tho (two part epoxy, easy to work with, set it and forget it).
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Old 06-05-2012, 08:17 PM
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Originally Posted by goehm
I'd glue the inserts - no reason not to. CA is hard to work with cuz it dries so fast. RTV seems to be a good bet. Personally I like JB Weld tho (two part epoxy, easy to work with, set it and forget it).
Would the really thick black ca work? So sorry i missed the whole discussion on this subject. Thought it didn't apply to me so i tuned it out. I should have listened!
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Old 06-05-2012, 08:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Rockthecatbox21
Would the really thick black ca work? So sorry i missed the whole discussion on this subject. Thought it didn't apply to me so i tuned it out. I should have listened!
I used silicone but have read that a lot of guys use CA also, you just have to make sure there is none left over that dries on top of the insert or it will throw off the gear alignment. And that the insert is fully seated.
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