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Old 11-04-2011, 07:29 PM
  #23821  
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Thought I'd post up my atypical SCTE to add to the collection. HobbyWing 120A Xerun, Castle 1410, Turnigy Nanotech, Bumps chassis, SNR carbon parts, APE hardened diff parts, hardened/lightened outdrives.

I put a lot of money in the truck's hardware, electronics, and such, and then felt I needed to switch to 'budget' electronics to soothe my conscience, but I really haven't been happier with the whole thing since I made the changes. No caps, no BEC, no glitches, smooth power delivery. Just need to find a consistent driver. =)

I now have more money for tires...

Pretty happy with the 5lbs 10.7oz!

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Old 11-04-2011, 07:29 PM
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Originally Posted by XTREME RACING
Dont hate the Digital Camo Not sure at this time but hope to have it ready soon if it works like I want it to.
Definitely not hating on the digital camo or the chassis. I really dig it, but I like the battery tray even more. Now if you can come up with red digital camo . . . .


Originally Posted by goehm
Thought I'd post up my atypical SCTE to add to the collection. HobbyWing 120A Xerun, Castle 1410, Turnigy Nanotech, Bumps chassis, SNR carbon parts, APE hardened diff parts, hardened/lightened outdrives.
Atypical: yes. Well executed: absolutely. Very nice setup!
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Old 11-04-2011, 07:57 PM
  #23823  
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I got a question,

Whats the difference between running the inside hole compaired to the outside hole on the rear hubs?

I run the AL setup but I've been running them on the inside hole instead of the outside, so would I get better traction running them outside?

I also run the spacers up front for more rear traction
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Old 11-04-2011, 09:32 PM
  #23824  
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Originally Posted by netmaster
Sway bar might be tweaked, bulkhead where the sway bars may be worn out, or the sway bar mounts to the arm are tweaked.

You should be able to tell if the sway bar is too big for the hole in the bulkhead it is passing through (shouldn't be, unless you are running a sway bar not designed for it). If it's smaller then the hole and its binding in some way then something is tweaked or worn out causing it to bind.
Sway bar is new and the front diff case has 4 races on it. I tried switching to the thickest front sway bar in the sway bar kit and it just locks up when you tighten it down. I'll look at it some more tomorrow and see if I can figure something out.
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Old 11-05-2011, 03:08 AM
  #23825  
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Originally Posted by Arigato
The mail person always wonders why I'm so exited when he/she gets to my house:

Thank you for Posting we try and ship out 1 -2 Batches weekley
Also will be stocking many of the Local Hobby stores for Holiday
Request.

BCESPEED L4X4 PRO
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Old 11-05-2011, 05:56 AM
  #23826  
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Originally Posted by NITROALM
Thank you for Posting we try and ship out 1 -2 Batches weekley
Also will be stocking many of the Local Hobby stores for Holiday
Request.

BCESPEED L4X4 PRO
Nice! Will Pegasus be one of them?
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Old 11-05-2011, 07:01 AM
  #23827  
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Anyone tried the castle 1406 motor? I see its a 4600kv 4 pole. Im currently running the 1410 and thought this might have the lil extra umph im lookin for???
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Old 11-05-2011, 07:19 AM
  #23828  
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I got one just to try and with a 14t pinion my motor got to 150* on just a few runs up and down the street with a 2s 5300 30c and my scte has got all the lightened stuff on it. So i wnet back to my 1415 2400 not the fastest on 2s but has the balls to clear all the jumps at my track.
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Old 11-05-2011, 07:26 AM
  #23829  
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Originally Posted by nitro0619
Anyone tried the castle 1406 motor? I see its a 4600kv 4 pole. Im currently running the 1410 and thought this might have the lil extra umph im lookin for???

The SCTE is too heavy for 1406 motors , the 1410 has a larger rotor which gives it the torque needed to pull the SCTE's weight .

The 1406 motors have the standard size rotors that 540 motors use and dont have as much torque and will heat up quickly as omenwolf found out ....
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Old 11-05-2011, 08:12 AM
  #23830  
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Originally Posted by namewasdallas
I got a question,

Whats the difference between running the inside hole compaired to the outside hole on the rear hubs?

I run the AL setup but I've been running them on the inside hole instead of the outside, so would I get better traction running them outside?

I also run the spacers up front for more rear traction
Can someone explain this for me?
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Old 11-05-2011, 08:38 AM
  #23831  
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Originally Posted by BashemSmashem
The SCTE is too heavy for 1406 motors , the 1410 has a larger rotor which gives it the torque needed to pull the SCTE's weight .

The 1406 motors have the standard size rotors that 540 motors use and dont have as much torque and will heat up quickly as omenwolf found out ....
ok thx for the heads up. Ill stick w my 1410 then
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Old 11-05-2011, 08:44 AM
  #23832  
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The Delta vs Wye thing has been done to death by people more knowledgeable than us. For a quality motor with the same number of turns on all coils it makes no difference whether it is delta or wye. For cheap motors that have differing numbers of winds on any coil it can be a problem though if you have one of these is your car you have bigger issues. Since we tend to use very low numbers of turns it would be very unlikely you would get this though. For our purposes, copper fill and gearing are the biggest factors in determining the efficiency of our motors.
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Old 11-05-2011, 08:56 AM
  #23833  
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Originally Posted by namewasdallas
I got a question,

Whats the difference between running the inside hole compaired to the outside hole on the rear hubs?

I run the AL setup but I've been running them on the inside hole instead of the outside, so would I get better traction running them outside?

I also run the spacers up front for more rear traction

Inboard Camber Location: The TEN-SCTE has two inner
camber link locations. These locations work in the same
fashion and have the same eff ect as noted for the front. You
will fi nd that you will get more noticeable changes with the
outer locations in the hub. In general the upper hole will make
the TEN-SCTE more stable and keep the front end fl atter. This
works well on higher traction surfaces. The lower location will
make the steering more aggressive which works well on lower
traction surfaces. This can be good in some conditions but can
also make the TEN-SCTE diffi cult to drive in others.
Outboard Camber Location: Running the camber link in the
inside position on the hub will generate more rotation entering
a turn, but decrease steering on exit. Running the camber link
in the furthest outer position on the hub will generate more
stability entering a turn and increase steering on exit.
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Old 11-05-2011, 10:25 AM
  #23834  
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Originally Posted by BashemSmashem
The SCTE is too heavy for 1406 motors , the 1410 has a larger rotor which gives it the torque needed to pull the SCTE's weight .

The 1406 motors have the standard size rotors that 540 motors use and dont have as much torque and will heat up quickly as omenwolf found out ....
Although this is probably true for most, it is not true for me.
I ran a CC/Neu 1406/1Y 4600kv motor in the SCTE and the only problem I experienced was the shaft not holding up, so I fixed that problem and it works just fine for me and was what I was running before the PRO 4 (4600kv) came out
Another one that I run with no probs neither is a Neu 1406/3Y on 4s in the SCTE
I do not recommend this to all but for those who know what they are doing and have lightened up their rigs but honestly now that the PRO 4's are out it isn't a great solution anymore.
I only ran the CC/Neu 1406/1Y 4600kv w/5mm shaft because at the time their was nothing else with enough snap for me, this has changed with my PRO 4 4600kv.
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Old 11-05-2011, 04:09 PM
  #23835  
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What's the best way to cut away the radio box without messing up the stands for the servo. I assume you need to be careful you don't weaken the structure. Pics?
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