TimBump

Emulsion shocks have to have some air mixed with the oil to allow for compression as the shock shaft goes in. I am not saying any one method is any better than the other. This is just the way I have been doing it for years and I am more consistent at getting the rebound I want out of the shocks. The shock I capped off in the video had more rebound than the one Mike did. With less rebound, the truck will travel smoother over rough terrain. If you do use the method I videoed, you can get less rebound like Mike's by sliding the shaft farther in before putting the cap on. This will also result in less air mixing with the shock oil. This can be a good tuning option that is easy to try at the track. I will sometimes run less rebound in the rear shocks to get the rear to settle down when the track ruts up. Just try a couple different rebound settings without changing anything else to see what works for your truck and your driving style. I think you will be surprised at the difference it can make. Just make sure you let your shocks sit for a while before changing rebound so that all the bubbles float out of the oil.

dtr

Nice one, Salad! What is the bunch of thin wires coming out on one side? I see two separately for the fan, three to the receiver, what about the rest?

stevepowling

Can you build the emulsion shocks with the stock plastic caps (with bleeder hole drilled) or do you have to use the metal caps?

TimBump

I need to write faster. 15 posts will go by on this thread before I can finish mine

Casper

iTrader: (34)

You can drill a hole in the plastic ones and that will work fine as well.

SaladFork

iTrader: (9)

Sounds normal to me, check to make sure you have no drag brake on... That clicking you hear when you spin down I believe is the motor/pinion/spur. It's notchy and when you get low on the RPM's and the clicking is the spur/pinion sound.

SaladFork

iTrader: (9)

The two wires, black and red leads are for battery, the three empty gold bullet plugs are where the VX4's plug in. You then have the receiver cord, the VPort (on/off button) and the fan which plugs into the ESC. The motors come pre-soldered with bullet connectors.

stevepowling

Thanks! I might try building them tonight.

kazuaki

iTrader: (35)

Tim, Ryan, Casper, thanks for the reply and all the great info. I'll try it out and see how it handles.

chucko

iTrader: (3)

I know everybody's been writing about the servo saver to loctite it down, in that process how tight do you go ? all the way with a pair of pliers and back it off two turns or what ? Thanks

Casper

iTrader: (34)

You want to tighten it so you have at least 2mm of thread showing below the nut.

dtr

Thanks! But still some missing, the part wich I have marked looks like a built-in sensor wire, a bit too many wires for an on/off switch.

lowroad

iTrader: (79)

Viper stuff gets programmed through the switch, so no need to unplug it from the RX.

SaladFork

iTrader: (9)

The Vport switch has the extra wires coming from the on/off button. It's where you plugin the ProGauge when you want to edit the ESC.

ChrisAttebery

iTrader: (121)

I'm looking for a little setup advice. I run at Nor-Cal hobbies where the Nats ran this summer. On a normal club race weekend the track is not watered and it is very hard pack with a bit of dust in the corners.

I'd like to reduce turn in and the truck will occasionally traction roll or kick the rear end out off power.

I started with Dakota Phend's setup from the nats. I have changed the following:

Diff Oils: 7/5/2

Shock Oils: 27.5 F/R

Ride Height w/ body on:
F: 25mm
R: 23.5mm

Camber:
F:-3
R:-1.5

Rear shocks: Middle top/ Outside rear

I've tried running Soft Enduros F/R and BowFighter M2 F/ Soft Enduro R. I also bought a set of the Losi Eclipse to try in the rear, but didn't have a chance to try them out.

Would going to the purple spring in the front help slow down turn in? Any other suggestions?

Thanks,


Chris