9LikesLosi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread
10-03-2011, 09:20 AM
10-03-2011, 09:33 AM
10-03-2011, 09:49 AM
Tech Regular
iTrader: (35)
Emulsion Setup
I've been considering converting my shocks to an emulsion setup and have seen a few videos on how to do it.
Tim Bump from Nitrohouse - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IgLTY17vPHg
Mike Truhe - http://www.youtube.com/watch?NR=1&v=eWBAKC-c1s4
For those that have converted your shocks over to an emulsion setup, I've got a few questions:
1) These two guys show two different methods. Tim doesn't bleed the shocks, which obviously leaves a lot of air in there. Mike seems to use the bleed hole, which probably gets rid of almost all of the air. So, I'm wondering which approach is correct? Isn't there supposed to be air mixed with the oil?
2) In Tim's walkthrough he mentions he usually needs to go up 5wt in oil when converting to emulsion. Have you guys found that to be true? I just want to know where I should start. If it matters, I'm currently running #5 piston and 27.5wt with the bladders.
3) what has been your overall experience with these on a larger outdoor track? I'm looking to be able to handle the big jumps better, while still keeping my current small-bump handling.
Thanks guys!
Tim Bump from Nitrohouse - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IgLTY17vPHg
Mike Truhe - http://www.youtube.com/watch?NR=1&v=eWBAKC-c1s4
For those that have converted your shocks over to an emulsion setup, I've got a few questions:
1) These two guys show two different methods. Tim doesn't bleed the shocks, which obviously leaves a lot of air in there. Mike seems to use the bleed hole, which probably gets rid of almost all of the air. So, I'm wondering which approach is correct? Isn't there supposed to be air mixed with the oil?
2) In Tim's walkthrough he mentions he usually needs to go up 5wt in oil when converting to emulsion. Have you guys found that to be true? I just want to know where I should start. If it matters, I'm currently running #5 piston and 27.5wt with the bladders.
3) what has been your overall experience with these on a larger outdoor track? I'm looking to be able to handle the big jumps better, while still keeping my current small-bump handling.
Thanks guys!
10-03-2011, 09:55 AM
*edit, still is on first page, just no bold, so it's tougher to see:
"Diff housing screw size (for people who have stripped the screws and want another option) Four screws - 2.5mm 45 pitch 10mm. HPI has some screws that work part# Z449 , they are M2.5x12mm 2mm longer than stock but the holes are deep enough in the diff housings. "
10-03-2011, 10:11 AM
thank you guys very much, scott, bashem, casper.
thanks alot I have yet to try it and will be giving it a shot.
Bashem,, I will be up at CCX this saturday can't wait till this saturday ought to be alot of fun with all classes running!!!!!!
thanks alot I have yet to try it and will be giving it a shot.
Bashem,, I will be up at CCX this saturday can't wait till this saturday ought to be alot of fun with all classes running!!!!!!
10-03-2011, 10:14 AM
wgile racing on sunday half way thru race it was very hard to get around the turns i was wondering if the serove saver is a common thing to loosen up on this truck or maybe i should look for problems ??
10-03-2011, 10:21 AM
well, that's a shame. They should have made them 12mm long so they actually hold the diffs together and don't strip out. Pretty common issue, and used to be on the first page here.
*edit, still is on first page, just no bold, so it's tougher to see:
"Diff housing screw size (for people who have stripped the screws and want another option) Four screws - 2.5mm 45 pitch 10mm. HPI has some screws that work part# Z449 , they are M2.5x12mm 2mm longer than stock but the holes are deep enough in the diff housings. "
*edit, still is on first page, just no bold, so it's tougher to see:
"Diff housing screw size (for people who have stripped the screws and want another option) Four screws - 2.5mm 45 pitch 10mm. HPI has some screws that work part# Z449 , they are M2.5x12mm 2mm longer than stock but the holes are deep enough in the diff housings. "
10-03-2011, 10:24 AM
There are plenty of threads biting into the housing. I know some stripped the heads but you should not be stripping the housing if you tighten by hand. Using a power drill the threads are quite fine for med to high clutch settings. I have my clutch at the lowest level and always torque these screws by hand.
10-03-2011, 11:29 AM
Did you read the first page yet? Very informative.
10-03-2011, 11:39 AM
If you thread lock the nut it stays put well. Just something to do or check with all kits out of the factory.
10-03-2011, 12:41 PM
I've been considering converting my shocks to an emulsion setup and have seen a few videos on how to do it.
Tim Bump from Nitrohouse - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IgLTY17vPHg
Mike Truhe - http://www.youtube.com/watch?NR=1&v=eWBAKC-c1s4
For those that have converted your shocks over to an emulsion setup, I've got a few questions:
1) These two guys show two different methods. Tim doesn't bleed the shocks, which obviously leaves a lot of air in there. Mike seems to use the bleed hole, which probably gets rid of almost all of the air. So, I'm wondering which approach is correct? Isn't there supposed to be air mixed with the oil?
2) In Tim's walkthrough he mentions he usually needs to go up 5wt in oil when converting to emulsion. Have you guys found that to be true? I just want to know where I should start. If it matters, I'm currently running #5 piston and 27.5wt with the bladders.
3) what has been your overall experience with these on a larger outdoor track? I'm looking to be able to handle the big jumps better, while still keeping my current small-bump handling.
Thanks guys!
Tim Bump from Nitrohouse - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IgLTY17vPHg
Mike Truhe - http://www.youtube.com/watch?NR=1&v=eWBAKC-c1s4
For those that have converted your shocks over to an emulsion setup, I've got a few questions:
1) These two guys show two different methods. Tim doesn't bleed the shocks, which obviously leaves a lot of air in there. Mike seems to use the bleed hole, which probably gets rid of almost all of the air. So, I'm wondering which approach is correct? Isn't there supposed to be air mixed with the oil?
2) In Tim's walkthrough he mentions he usually needs to go up 5wt in oil when converting to emulsion. Have you guys found that to be true? I just want to know where I should start. If it matters, I'm currently running #5 piston and 27.5wt with the bladders.
3) what has been your overall experience with these on a larger outdoor track? I'm looking to be able to handle the big jumps better, while still keeping my current small-bump handling.
Thanks guys!
10-03-2011, 01:09 PM
10-03-2011, 01:14 PM
I first broke in my diffs and then went through them and re-shimmed. I simply would add a shim and test to gauge if it were binding. If an additional shim or two bound up diff action I would adjust by taking a shim out. Since initial adjustments I have not touched them and the drive train is very free. I’m also still running on the older original gears but I did add “Chris pins” when I first bought the kit.
If diff action is smooth and there is no play, don't worry about the noise, I would not necessarily use sound to adjust diffs, these trucks are not running 64 or 48 pitch, they may sound a bit harsh.
Is there someone at your local track that could help you out?
If diff action is smooth and there is no play, don't worry about the noise, I would not necessarily use sound to adjust diffs, these trucks are not running 64 or 48 pitch, they may sound a bit harsh.
Is there someone at your local track that could help you out?
Here is a clip from my truck running it on the stand. Is this how it's supposed to sound. Mostly i'm concerned about the sound when releasing the throttle. Coming from the rear part of the truck.
Check it out!
| + YouTube Video | |
10-03-2011, 01:25 PM
Casper or Ryan, can you guys answer this for Greg? He asked me and Tim Bump does say to go up in shock wt oil. When I went to emulsion I didn't go up any, but I don't have any experience with large outdoor tracks, only with indoor tracks that don't have huge jumps etc.
10-03-2011, 01:27 PM
I've been considering converting my shocks to an emulsion setup and have seen a few videos on how to do it.
Tim Bump from Nitrohouse - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IgLTY17vPHg
Mike Truhe - http://www.youtube.com/watch?NR=1&v=eWBAKC-c1s4
For those that have converted your shocks over to an emulsion setup, I've got a few questions:
1) These two guys show two different methods. Tim doesn't bleed the shocks, which obviously leaves a lot of air in there. Mike seems to use the bleed hole, which probably gets rid of almost all of the air. So, I'm wondering which approach is correct? Isn't there supposed to be air mixed with the oil?
2) In Tim's walkthrough he mentions he usually needs to go up 5wt in oil when converting to emulsion. Have you guys found that to be true? I just want to know where I should start. If it matters, I'm currently running #5 piston and 27.5wt with the bladders.
3) what has been your overall experience with these on a larger outdoor track? I'm looking to be able to handle the big jumps better, while still keeping my current small-bump handling.
Thanks guys!
Tim Bump from Nitrohouse - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IgLTY17vPHg
Mike Truhe - http://www.youtube.com/watch?NR=1&v=eWBAKC-c1s4
For those that have converted your shocks over to an emulsion setup, I've got a few questions:
1) These two guys show two different methods. Tim doesn't bleed the shocks, which obviously leaves a lot of air in there. Mike seems to use the bleed hole, which probably gets rid of almost all of the air. So, I'm wondering which approach is correct? Isn't there supposed to be air mixed with the oil?
2) In Tim's walkthrough he mentions he usually needs to go up 5wt in oil when converting to emulsion. Have you guys found that to be true? I just want to know where I should start. If it matters, I'm currently running #5 piston and 27.5wt with the bladders.
3) what has been your overall experience with these on a larger outdoor track? I'm looking to be able to handle the big jumps better, while still keeping my current small-bump handling.
Thanks guys!
2. We did not change wt oil when switching from emulsion from bladder but you will want to try things and see what your truck needs for your conditions.
3. Landing with with the emulsion sytle shocks has been much better and consistant. Truck lands without bouncing and maintains stability to get on the throttle again sooner.