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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 10-03-2011, 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by lowroad View Post
are the diff screws longer like the HPI replacements? Grease looks like my finace's make up container
I hope theyre not longer than the HPI screws My question is do they still have a 1/16 head ?
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Old 10-03-2011, 09:16 AM
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Originally Posted by BashemSmashem View Post
I hope theyre not longer than the HPI screws My question is do they still have a 1/16 head ?
as long AS the HPI's.
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Old 10-03-2011, 09:20 AM
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Originally Posted by lowroad View Post
as long AS the HPI's.
sorry misread , first day with the new eyes !
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Old 10-03-2011, 09:33 AM
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Originally Posted by lowroad View Post
are the diff screws longer like the HPI replacements? Grease looks like my finace's make up container
I don't know about the HPI screws. These are just replacement screws if you strip one.
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Old 10-03-2011, 09:49 AM
  #21410  
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Default Emulsion Setup

I've been considering converting my shocks to an emulsion setup and have seen a few videos on how to do it.
Tim Bump from Nitrohouse - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IgLTY17vPHg
Mike Truhe - http://www.youtube.com/watch?NR=1&v=eWBAKC-c1s4
For those that have converted your shocks over to an emulsion setup, I've got a few questions:
1) These two guys show two different methods. Tim doesn't bleed the shocks, which obviously leaves a lot of air in there. Mike seems to use the bleed hole, which probably gets rid of almost all of the air. So, I'm wondering which approach is correct? Isn't there supposed to be air mixed with the oil?
2) In Tim's walkthrough he mentions he usually needs to go up 5wt in oil when converting to emulsion. Have you guys found that to be true? I just want to know where I should start. If it matters, I'm currently running #5 piston and 27.5wt with the bladders.
3) what has been your overall experience with these on a larger outdoor track? I'm looking to be able to handle the big jumps better, while still keeping my current small-bump handling.

Thanks guys!
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Old 10-03-2011, 09:55 AM
  #21411  
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Originally Posted by Casper View Post
I don't know about the HPI screws. These are just replacement screws if you strip one.
well, that's a shame. They should have made them 12mm long so they actually hold the diffs together and don't strip out. Pretty common issue, and used to be on the first page here.

*edit, still is on first page, just no bold, so it's tougher to see:

"Diff housing screw size (for people who have stripped the screws and want another option) Four screws - 2.5mm 45 pitch 10mm. HPI has some screws that work part# Z449 , they are M2.5x12mm 2mm longer than stock but the holes are deep enough in the diff housings. "
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Old 10-03-2011, 10:11 AM
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thank you guys very much, scott, bashem, casper.

thanks alot I have yet to try it and will be giving it a shot.

Bashem,, I will be up at CCX this saturday can't wait till this saturday ought to be alot of fun with all classes running!!!!!!
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Old 10-03-2011, 10:14 AM
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wgile racing on sunday half way thru race it was very hard to get around the turns i was wondering if the serove saver is a common thing to loosen up on this truck or maybe i should look for problems ??
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Old 10-03-2011, 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by lowroad View Post
well, that's a shame. They should have made them 12mm long so they actually hold the diffs together and don't strip out. Pretty common issue, and used to be on the first page here.

*edit, still is on first page, just no bold, so it's tougher to see:

"Diff housing screw size (for people who have stripped the screws and want another option) Four screws - 2.5mm 45 pitch 10mm. HPI has some screws that work part# Z449 , they are M2.5x12mm 2mm longer than stock but the holes are deep enough in the diff housings. "
There are plenty of threads biting into the housing. I know some stripped the heads but you should not be stripping the housing if you tighten by hand. Using a power drill the threads are quite fine for med to high clutch settings. I have my clutch at the lowest level and always torque these screws by hand.
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Old 10-03-2011, 10:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Casper View Post
There are plenty of threads biting into the housing. I know some stripped the heads but you should not be stripping the housing if you tighten by hand. Using a power drill the threads are quite fine for med to high clutch settings. I have my clutch at the lowest level and always torque these screws by hand.
of course I do them by hand. I'm not talking about the head of the screw at all. Threads, housing....they strip. Either way, they should have been made a whopping 2mm longer, which would have solved the problem all around, but oh well.
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Old 10-03-2011, 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by cyclone x View Post
wgile racing on sunday half way thru race it was very hard to get around the turns i was wondering if the serove saver is a common thing to loosen up on this truck or maybe i should look for problems ??
Yes the servo saver loosens up very often, one of the first problems noted with the truck back in the beginning.

Did you read the first page yet? Very informative.
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Old 10-03-2011, 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Starlite033 View Post
Yes the servo saver loosens up very often, one of the first problems noted with the truck back in the beginning.

Did you read the first page yet? Very informative.
If you thread lock the nut it stays put well. Just something to do or check with all kits out of the factory.
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Old 10-03-2011, 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by kazuaki View Post
I've been considering converting my shocks to an emulsion setup and have seen a few videos on how to do it.
Tim Bump from Nitrohouse - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IgLTY17vPHg
Mike Truhe - http://www.youtube.com/watch?NR=1&v=eWBAKC-c1s4
For those that have converted your shocks over to an emulsion setup, I've got a few questions:
1) These two guys show two different methods. Tim doesn't bleed the shocks, which obviously leaves a lot of air in there. Mike seems to use the bleed hole, which probably gets rid of almost all of the air. So, I'm wondering which approach is correct? Isn't there supposed to be air mixed with the oil?
2) In Tim's walkthrough he mentions he usually needs to go up 5wt in oil when converting to emulsion. Have you guys found that to be true? I just want to know where I should start. If it matters, I'm currently running #5 piston and 27.5wt with the bladders.
3) what has been your overall experience with these on a larger outdoor track? I'm looking to be able to handle the big jumps better, while still keeping my current small-bump handling.

Thanks guys!
Casper or Ryan, can you guys answer this for Greg? He asked me and Tim Bump does say to go up in shock wt oil. When I went to emulsion I didn't go up any, but I don't have any experience with large outdoor tracks, only with indoor tracks that don't have huge jumps etc.

Originally Posted by SaladFork View Post
Oh SNAP! Getting close guys!



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Old 10-03-2011, 01:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Kevin_M View Post
I saw posts for the RX8 thats a 1/8 scale esc but why use that with a 1/10 motor? Just curious. like i said im new to elect
I'm a firm believer in, "that's what the manufacturer suggested".....and Randy Pike also recommendeded it.
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Old 10-03-2011, 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Doug D View Post
I first broke in my diffs and then went through them and re-shimmed. I simply would add a shim and test to gauge if it were binding. If an additional shim or two bound up diff action I would adjust by taking a shim out. Since initial adjustments I have not touched them and the drive train is very free. I’m also still running on the older original gears but I did add “Chris pins” when I first bought the kit.

If diff action is smooth and there is no play, don't worry about the noise, I would not necessarily use sound to adjust diffs, these trucks are not running 64 or 48 pitch, they may sound a bit harsh.

Is there someone at your local track that could help you out?
I'm alone at the local track with the scte. Others are running sc10 4x4, durango and the hongnor.

Here is a clip from my truck running it on the stand. Is this how it's supposed to sound. Mostly i'm concerned about the sound when releasing the throttle. Coming from the rear part of the truck.

Check it out!

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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