Another advantage to hex front is being also to throw your new front wheels/tires on the rear to break them in and get a little wear on the foams. I still run standard front and it takes a few packs until the fronts start to hook up.

Gonna be putting my worlds kit together tomorrow and racing Sunday. Need to put a spare parts package together so I want to know what is recomended? The usuall towers,arms,bulk heads,wing mounts. What breaks the most if anything on these cars.

Overall pretty durable, I try to have Ball cups, arms, caster blocks, maybe f/r towers just in case.

front arms, 30 degree blocks, bullhead. IF u hit hard.

arms rarely break but they do eventually. keep a set of front/rear arms, front shock tower, cvd rebuild kit (i've had a cvd pin break on me, but that car was about a year old). front bulkhead. i also have a spare set of caster blocks just in case. oh and have some extra rollpins, or better yet, just upgrade to rear hexes and use the solid axle pins. get an extra idler gear as well.

Also meant to ask. Carbon spare parts or plastic?

i would just go with the plastic they are what comes with the kit but if you do decide to get the carbon spare parts, if you do break a plastic part mark sure to change both the arms out to carbon and not leave one carbon and one plastic. if you are thinking about switching to all carbon parts your car will be more responsive and better in higher grip conditions.

OK I have to ask... is the car really terrible running like that? I wanted to try just to see what would happen.

If you guys don't want your factory team roll pins to fall out just put a dab of blue loctite on them before you install them

Get an extra set of front bearings so you can make up a set of std front axles and keep in your box.

Get another U brace and leave it std. Shave the other one down. This way when you go from C hub Tower to A hub Tower, you can just switch U Braces and not have to worry about adding washes and then breaking a ball stud.

Some guys are cutting the wing mount nipples off and then tapping them so you can screw the wing onto the wing mount. I like this myself but haven't done it yet.

drill and tap the rear alum hubs and then put a grub screw against the hinge pin.

I also got the alum bulkhead just because I was tired of the plastic ones wearing out in 1 run. Yes I know the arm will slop out, but at least now it's only the arm and not the arm and the bulkhead LOL.

I also glued my servo saver. Just a drop and let it dry. That way in case of a big hit, the glue will break (hopefully LOL).

Other than that, I think you nailed all the stuff you wanna get.

I think I am too new to understand about the concept of shaving the u brace. Any help/direction on this topic?

You would only have to shave the ubrace down if you have the carbon fiber hub tops

What are the advantages to using the carbon fiber ones opposed to the stock ones? Is it worth having to go through shaving the brace? This is my first AE buggy so i'm trying to learn everything so when I build it I don't have to go back and do mods.

Sure.... the U brace is this piece

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...is-Brace-B4-T4

When you run these:

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...t-C-Left-Right

When you run those Carbon Fiber hub towers, you are lowering the ball stud position by .060 (2 washers). In order to keep the correct geometry, you have to lower the inside as well. So what you do is shave the area on the U Brace where the ball stud screws into so that it's flat. When you buy the Carbon Fiber (C Tower) Hub Tower, there's a small instruction supplement instructing you on this. Tomorrow is car cleaning day, I'll try to remember to snap some pics and post em if no one else has any that they can post up.

I would say yes do the mod and get the carbon fiber hub tops your rear end will feel more planted and you will have more rear traction I loved mine when I put them in. My lap times dropped significantly.