B4.1L getting work done at our track last night... fastest cars on the tack.

Is there any advantage of this Capacitor over the one that comes with the Tekin RS SC? Would this even work with a Tekin RS?

Is there a reason the he covers the lead with heat shrink, other than looks?

Looks, wants everything blacked out.

Can someone tell me the typical sensor wire length for a B4.1? I don't have my car in front of me to measure.

So for the most part, are these chassis mods holding up? Has anyone tried lengths other than what was run at the worlds? I thought I remember reading the full length T4 chassis was still within allowable wheelbase limits, so it seems like there would be some room to work with.

270mm.

The full length T4 chassis is too long to be useful. It would make it lazy. The 8mm additional length is the happy medium.

haha. what?

I believe this is the length that came with my Orion motor.

Ive had 3 b4 ft over the last couple winters. I'm looking at getting a rtr b4.1 and using the stock motor esc. Any issues with the stock esc burning up

Also with the longer chassis. Does the b4 bulldog still work?

Also what parts are extra upgrades on the ft over the rtr

Hmm 11" seems like it would leave some slack. I was thinking 150-200 would have been more like it. I'm thinking of making an order with tq wire and they have 25mm (~1") increments

if you plan on racing dont get the rtr, buy a ft with some good tronics, lrp sxx v2 or tekin rs, novak or orion moters, trinity speed passion. yea it does work

Well I did the chassis mod thing over the week and I had very good results from previouos races. First time ever I did 13 laps at our track. Yeah, the faster 3 at our track always seem to do 13 lasp but not me, not until I did this limo chassis. Car off the bat pushed, but for me I moved the battery foward and added 25 deg castor blocks, adjusted ride height/camber again, and bamm. It just worked. The longer chassis for me just seemed to be able to drive faster in and out of corners without the car getting upset.

Well, thats my .02

I used a hack saw to cut straight lines and Med Ca to glue it back together then the left over peices as braces. Held up all night and practices. I did break it once in practice the first time out but I cased a pipe off a big jump onto a spike. So would've broken anything. Glued it back and been solid since. Measured the wheelbase afterwars and it was at 284.162mm. Close to a 22 at 285mm. I'm just the average Joe doing this but worked for me.





Bulldog body from a RB5 fits ight.

Wow! You were doing this mod 3 years before anyone else!!

Your chassis broke because you didn't brace it correctly. don't worry about bracing the bottom... just the sides. If you look at the vertical pieces of the chassis in your picture, you can see the bracing only covers like 1cm on both sides of the cut line. Make a long skinny piece that goes lengthwise along the vertical piece of chassis, so you have like an inch on both sides of the cut line. The bracing you did there wont cut it.

Hey where did you find a T4.1 chassis? All I find is the T4. Are they the same?

Thanks!