RC10B4.1 FT/WC
Registered User
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 411
From: Mesa, AZ
You may have something set up wrong. That seems excessive, I have only blown 1 rear wheel bearing in the past year running a minimum of once a week usually twice
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,616
From: New Jersey
I never believed that number BS. Back in the day, the general rule of thumb was Trinity oil was thinnest, AE thickest, Losi in the middle. They were all very close. Most of us back then ran the Losi just because it was was in the middle.
You cant tighten the rear wheel nuts too much. Regardless of the bearing spacer in the hub, you have to make sure there is some play between the axle and bearing race AFTER tightening the wheel nuts.
The cross pin in the axle will press into the wheel... the wheel presses the cone spacer against the inner race of the outer hub bearing... and pulls the axle against the inner race of the inner hub bearing.
No matter how i have shimmed it, i have never been able to just torque down the wheel nuts w/o binding the hub bearings. Ive always had to slightly back off the wheel nut to be sure there was about 1/32 of play for the axle in the rear hub bearings.
The cross pin in the axle will press into the wheel... the wheel presses the cone spacer against the inner race of the outer hub bearing... and pulls the axle against the inner race of the inner hub bearing.
No matter how i have shimmed it, i have never been able to just torque down the wheel nuts w/o binding the hub bearings. Ive always had to slightly back off the wheel nut to be sure there was about 1/32 of play for the axle in the rear hub bearings.
And i still run Losi oil... lol
i believe its still 2.5wt..
But the thing with the oils and is the consistanty of the oil batch to batch.. that was the prob.. specialwith the old trinity oils...never really new what u were gonna get... I use to run losi oil before because of the color, justmade it easy to remember what u had in ur shocks.. And they had 1/2 wts before anyone..
But i reccomend using all one brand whichever u pick..
But the thing with the oils and is the consistanty of the oil batch to batch.. that was the prob.. specialwith the old trinity oils...never really new what u were gonna get... I use to run losi oil before because of the color, justmade it easy to remember what u had in ur shocks.. And they had 1/2 wts before anyone..
But i reccomend using all one brand whichever u pick..
Suspended
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 168
The steps between weight and manufactures are not linear. Basically the step from 20 to 25 is not the same as the step from 25 to 30. The WT numbers don't correlate to anything, except one another. They are just numbers picked out of the sky. Losi 25 wt is thicker than Losi 20 weight, and that is about all you can guarantee. Ambient tempurature also has an effect on the oil as well. Like Blue Screw posted, your best bet for accuracy is to stick with a single brand. Or switch over to an oil that is CST rated. CST or centistrokes, is an actual measurment of fluid viscosity, so as long as an oil is accurately labeled, you could in theory switch between any CST measured oil and it should yield the same handling characteristics. Now it is possible that different brands of oil, wheather labeled WT or CST, would respond differently to temperature. Like was stated earlier, the absolute best thing is to pick one brand and stay with that. Losi is nice because it is certified and colored. AE is now made by Lucas, so it is probably also very consistant. A couple drops of food coloring would make the AE oils easier to identify if you are not very good at remembering what you have in your shocks.
Tech Master
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,418
From: Amishland PA
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,704
From: Sydney,Australia
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,704
From: Sydney,Australia
Man,this thread is so coool...
As long as you get on here everyday and have a quick read to see if anything new has been discovered yor up to date
Dont need to use the search as long as you read each day,just take the bits and pieces of info you need...
Im a little bit behind the curve,just playing with kyosho springs now....but,i know my next steps are tuning the Vassa setup a little more to my liking...
Then GHEA's.....then add gold turnbuckles,and im back on the same page as you guys

Im,a month or so back
As long as you get on here everyday and have a quick read to see if anything new has been discovered yor up to date

Dont need to use the search as long as you read each day,just take the bits and pieces of info you need...
Im a little bit behind the curve,just playing with kyosho springs now....but,i know my next steps are tuning the Vassa setup a little more to my liking...
Then GHEA's.....then add gold turnbuckles,and im back on the same page as you guys


Im,a month or so back
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,704
From: Sydney,Australia
I have been running solid mounted wing on my B4.1 for 6 months or so now i guess.
Found a few things from it...
Hard mounted
More stability at speed....
Tuning the wing angle actually works
Wings last longer
Wing mounts last around 3 months...
So,yeah it eats up wing mounts,but looks better,and feels way better...more consistent feeling at the end of fast straights,locked in almost...
Try it,its only a wing mount set
Found a few things from it...
Hard mounted
More stability at speed....
Tuning the wing angle actually works
Wings last longer

Wing mounts last around 3 months...
So,yeah it eats up wing mounts,but looks better,and feels way better...more consistent feeling at the end of fast straights,locked in almost...
Try it,its only a wing mount set



