Originally Posted by Ryno B4.1

Some of us are just too damn lazy to take the bearings out all the time

Originally Posted by Ryno B4.1

Some of us are just too damn lazy to take the bearings out all the time

Originally Posted by idrummerboy13

Anybody using the proline front hex ? I can get some from track they look nice also

Originally Posted by Ryno B4.1

Some of us are just too damn lazy to take the bearings out all the time

Originally Posted by racer1812

maybe covered BUT, is there a reason the Traxxcrap spring cups won't work with the TLR springs? They fit a little tight over the rod end but other than that I don't see a reason they won't. I got springs but the TLR cups were on B.O...

Originally Posted by mrbusta

broke the plastic bulk head last night and the front hinge
pin holder and lost a pin lol bad landing on a jump is the alloy version worth purchasing and anyone got a link to whats good thanks guys

Originally Posted by mrbusta

broke the plastic bulk head last night and the front hinge
pin holder and lost a pin lol bad landing on a jump is the alloy version worth purchasing and anyone got a link to whats good thanks guys

Originally Posted by Wild Cherry

Ft

#1 piston , 35w , 2 x .030 limiter, silver 12m Losi BB spring

Shock =inside on tower & outside on arm
Camber stud 1 X .030 limiter

Camber link inside on tower & inside on caster 30 degree

1/4oz in ft corners & 1/2 oz in ft of servo

*graphite nose plate & ft arms

24m ride height

1/4oz in back corners & Ae ballast weight next to transmission


Rear


#2 piston ,27.5w, 2 x.030 limiter, white Losi 12mBB spring

Shock = Inside on arm & tower & 1 x .030 under ball stud on u brace
camber link = inside on U brace & middle on hub

Rear hub = 0 degree ,mounted in middle , 3 degree toe block, 2 degree anti squat

24 m ride height

*Plastic rear arm
*Carbon U brace


Tire

JConcept Gold Bar Code



Track conditions


Smooth Clay , lots of shape corners, no hard landings , med traction ...


We are having the Pacific N/w ShootOut next weekend , this is what the guys are using including me ...

Originally Posted by patiofurniture

You have no mention of the number of inner ball stud washers front and rear. I would make sure that you at least either have one or no ball stud washers in the rear and on or two in the front. If you want the car to turn in more and rotate go with fewer washers in the rear. If you want the feeling of more traction at the expense of mid-exit steering ad a washer in the rear. In the front if you want more initial turn in go with fewer washers, but for more exit steering add one. Typically adjusting the rear washer height is a little more sensitive of an adjustment than the the front.

Also I would bet that you car feels so twitchy because your springs are too stiff front and rear. Try at least going to one stage softer with 30wt fr and 27wt rear with #2 pistons in front and #3 piston in the rear with standard limiters. You shouldn't have any chassis slap unless you are either flat landing, or unevenly landing on the downside.

Originally Posted by blingy

Well the new worlds car is out and ot has all of the stuff we have been running since its been aval. and the kyosho car has been playing with the long chassis just as long and still cant get one out yet or even put in the worlds car ,this tells who is on top of what people want in a kit that says WORLDS car ,minus the k car springs . This is not to put kyosho down just making an observation .

Originally Posted by Wild Cherry

Tom

Yes, all are using Gold Bar Code.


Many are also using they softer JConcept insert & are using 4 or 5 wraps of duct tape on the center of rim to help remove air space between the insert.