[QUOTE=-WHEELMAN-;9971231]Your Tekin motor will pull 13.5 D3 motors all day long you do not have it geared correctly! Add two teeth to the pinion at a time until your motor is between 150 and 170 after 7 minutes of run time. It will be amazing to you how much faster it is geared correctly!


That's what I figured. I am geared 22/81 now and it hauls. I tried to put a 27 in with the 81 and it doesn't fit. I don't need any more top end just looking for more low end grunt. I don't use any ESC timing or boost, just 12* on the can. Would some boost or timing help any? I am just used to my 4pole castles having serious low end, but love to sensored motor.

Hi Guys,

I am running a FT T4.1.... i need some help with tuning.

Novak GTB2 / Novak ballistic 7.5 / 87t spur......which pinion should I use?

Should I change spur as well if so, too what?

Gear up until your motor temps are around 150 after your main. You can move the motor back and forth by using different spurs but keep the same pinion/spur ratio. That truck is going to fly. You are going to need a wheelie bar!

You'll want a 23 with that spur, I run 22/81 with my 7.5.

but tbh looking at factory setup with a 7.5 they seem to run 87/19. which is also what it says in the manual.

on a 9.5 i run 84/22, which is a tighter indoor track too.

whats a good starting point (pinion/spur) for a boosted trinity d3 17.5 using a tekin rspro esc? i'm new to advance timing and usually run a 7.5 in mod buggy,but i know i dont have a chance against the best in the world at next months jconcepts clash so stock buggy will haft to do anyhelp would be awesome

I am running a 25/75 with a 13.5t . try a 22/75 or 20/81 with the 17.5T

Depends how much boost. On a big track, 28/72 with the boost near maxed out should be a good starting point. Run 3000-5000 boost start, and 10,000-15,000 boost end. Unless the straight is REALLY long, skip the Turbo

I run a Tekin RS/Epic Duo2 17.5 with 30/75 gearing at SDRC Raceway (the fastest mod guys run 16 second laps, boosted 17.5 runs mid 17-18 second laps). I run no current limiter with full boost on the ESC and about 1/3 can timing to maintain torque for larger jumps. Temps are never an issue and speeds are as good as the majority of the buggies out there (as long as I keep my cool and don't wreck!).

just put one together myself, things I noticed:

Drag link from servo to steering arm pivot calls for approx 1/16th in manual, for full lock to lock 2mm is needed (team guys are using a blue spacer, I had 2mm spacer)

Bolts for transmission do need thread lock AND double check after first few runs. When you assemble it, do not crank down just snug, tighten after tranny is run a bit.

AE springs are icky, especially green rears. I have converted to losi big bore springs. Losi orange in front, yellows or pink in rear. Used traxxas spring holders up top to retain, used losi 22 spring holders on bottom. Very smooth, could tell they were better right away with no other changes.

Do yourself a favor and get what ever setup works for your track, before the build, all anti-squat/shock pistons/toe blocks come in the kit to set it up from the get go. Easy build, great fit and finish, great design.

I picked up all the carbon parts, +8mm chassis. Car drives like a champ, great fwd traction and steering, especially on the gas in sweepers. You can drive it in and out of corners quite well, my biggest complaint of my 22.

i was looking on amains website for some diff balls,there is a 1/8 and 3/32 size for diff balls,which one is used for the ball diff in the b4.1?

3/32"

To the folks who do NOT run boost (blinky mode) - what have you found as the gearing sweet spot for a 17.5t?

hey what would you guys (racers) want as a product for our cars would titanium shock shafts be any good maybe a tflon or ptfe coated titanium hinge pins? please let me know your thoughts thanks.

69/33 runs real well.