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Old 09-16-2012 | 02:15 PM
  #20626  
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Originally Posted by vw addict
again, it all has to do with the composition.........
Indeed. Though I'm not an expert in metallurgy by any means... or even an amateur, I am a certified weldor and am familiar with the wide grades of stainless. As with any alloy, it's content makes a big difference.
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Old 09-16-2012 | 03:05 PM
  #20627  
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I have been running stock for a while but its slow. I wanna put in a mod motor to clear the big jumps. I'm not great but intermediate level. Probably cant hang in our mod class but want to practice with one to get the feel. At trcr we have tight corners to large jumps right after. Indoor clay med traction. Wild cherry posted a video probably 10-20 pages back already.
What do you guys suggest? 8.5 10.5? Anybody wanna unload one?
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Old 09-16-2012 | 03:31 PM
  #20628  
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Hey guys I seem to b at a stand still with the b4.1, I need someone to email or pm me a proficient practice schedule that will help me make faster lap times, I knoe practice is what is needed and I'm at the track a shit ton with no improvements in times. I'm a quick guy in my sc10 but no so much with the buggy. Email me at [email protected] or just pm me one I can print out, thanks guys and cnt wait for a good formula I can place in effect and with a lil time and hard wrk put forth it pays off.
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Old 09-16-2012 | 03:32 PM
  #20629  
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I stopped by West Coast Raceway today to pick up my ROAR Nationals shirt (finally) and I forgot that Cav cleaned up and left all 3 of his vehicles he used to sweep the Nats displayed in one of their glass cases. Here are a few close up pics, just for the heck of it. I didn't ask if they would mind taking them out; it may not be a decision up to them w/o Ryan present. Depending upon his racing calendar, he usually comes to WCRC for their local series races. First time I ever got to see him wheel his 4WD in person, I was in the same race as him
Attached Thumbnails RC10B4.1 FT/WC-imag0823.jpg   RC10B4.1 FT/WC-imag0826.jpg   RC10B4.1 FT/WC-imag0824.jpg   RC10B4.1 FT/WC-imag0825.jpg  
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Old 09-16-2012 | 03:47 PM
  #20630  
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Originally Posted by rigor
I stopped by West Coast Raceway today to pick up my ROAR Nationals shirt (finally) and I forgot that Cav cleaned up and left all 3 of his vehicles he used to sweep the Nats displayed in one of their glass cases. Here are a few close up pics, just for the heck of it. I didn't ask if they would mind taking them out; it may not be a decision up to them w/o Ryan present. Depending upon his racing calendar, he usually comes to WCRC for their local series races. First time I ever got to see him wheel his 4WD in person, I was in the same race as him
Shweet! You should show this to noobs like me so they can see that winning isn't all about aluminum and carbon fiber parts.
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Old 09-16-2012 | 05:50 PM
  #20631  
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Originally Posted by Plexabit
Shweet! You should show this to noobs like me so they can see that winning isn't all about aluminum and carbon fiber parts.
hideeho
He does have some very select mods done. Real quick I notice what appears to be a carbon front arm brace (& not trimmed very well), carbon front arms, TiNi ball studs, spaced & shaved front tower to fit bb's, (from other pics) b44.1 rear arms, shaved carbon u-brace, sc10 motor guard (?), & (of particular interest to the current conversation) Ti screws throughout (includeing shock mounts). I believe I recall seeing a toppless pic some where w/ no surprises at all, everything made ot of the material you expect in the place you expect it with nothing cut down or trimmed.

One thing I have not seen, in this or any other pics of his or any other buggy with them, do you need to modify/space the rear tower for AE bb's? I assume you need a spacer on the bottom (I have a 1mm for bb springs), but do you need to modify/space the top for cap clearence on the tower?
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Old 09-16-2012 | 06:37 PM
  #20632  
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When doing the bb spring conversion do i need 2 x this part
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...rs-Upper-Lower

I know about the losi cups for the bottom but the top spring collar seems only to be 2 in the pack(as above)
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Old 09-16-2012 | 06:39 PM
  #20633  
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Originally Posted by LOSI123
When doing the bb spring conversion do i need 2 x this part
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...rs-Upper-Lower

I know about the losi cups for the bottom but the top spring collar seems only to be 2 in the pack(as above)
you could also use the traxxas bottoms that come with the upper.
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Old 09-16-2012 | 06:45 PM
  #20634  
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What would you but If you had 35 to buy anything besides tires what would you buy?
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Old 09-16-2012 | 06:48 PM
  #20635  
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Originally Posted by 3srcracing
What would you but If you had 35 to buy anything besides tires what would you buy?
A fancy paint scheme.
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Old 09-16-2012 | 07:11 PM
  #20636  
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What maintaince needs to be done to these "low maintaince" motors? I have a pro 4 4000 with about 24 race days on it and a tekin redline 10.5 with slightly less. I haven't done one bit of any cleaning, oiling or disassembly.
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Old 09-16-2012 | 07:17 PM
  #20637  
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Originally Posted by mingoglia
Just playing devil's advocate here... but why is it that titanium turnbuckles are superior to their steel counterparts if titanium parts are weaker than their steel counterparts? If I were to guess, I'd say that the titanium is stiffer, but when it does go it tends to snap and not bend.
No, titanium bends more readily. The reason it's used in turnbuckles is that it's light (main reason) and it doesn't break until it has been stretched many times further than steel or aluminum. This is why it's used in situations where total failure is worse than deforming (like aircraft engines).
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Old 09-16-2012 | 07:29 PM
  #20638  
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Originally Posted by 3srcracing
What would you but If you had 35 to buy anything besides tires what would you buy?
Track time
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Old 09-16-2012 | 07:34 PM
  #20639  
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Originally Posted by mingoglia
For the record, from RCScrewz website:

Q: Are stainless screw stronger than the stock screws that come with the cars/truck/heli kits from the manufacturer?

A: Yes - we use A2-70/A4-80 Stainless Steel Screws (Button, Socket & Countersunk Heads) Set Screws, Nuts & Washers. They are stronger than stock steel screws but not as strong as titanium.
Pretty much completely incorrect. They're probably not MEs and/or don't know how to read data sheets. They have higher tensile strength than a soft mild steel screws, but miss on everything else. Average stainless screws in this size range will be 18-8. The above alloys are formulated primarily for corrosion resistance and are somewhat unusual in fasteners.

Originally Posted by Eli
Good info, the grade of screws is the key. I've seen some ti. screws bend easier then kit screws because they weren't good quality like the lunsford stuff.
Lunsford uses a standard commercial-grade titanium alloy. Your turnbuckles are probably made of the same material.

Originally Posted by vw addict
Titanium while stronger than steel, generally will bend easier than steel. There are so many variables to the strength of steel, stainless, and titanium that it is impossible to say that one or the other is better. Like everything else, "it depends...."
Not just generally. There are some exotic alloys that surpass soft mild steels in resistance to bending, but I'd be surprised if you could readily purchase them in 4-40 simply because there wouldn't be enough demand to make it profitable to mass produce them. They will still bend more readily than average cheap steel screws that you buy by the kilo.
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Old 09-16-2012 | 07:36 PM
  #20640  
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In the above pics of Ryans B4.1 whats the reason for running the sc10 rear motor guard?
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