Im after a Gear ratio advise for a X12 10.5T 4 dot, Blinky esc, medium pushing on large track

I bought a B4.1 WC yesterday. But I am still on the hunt for a tlr 22 to play with. The car look nice. But TLR pisses me off. Super high prices and you dont even get TI turnbuckles hardened diff ball and many other things. Not even an alum pin brace. I dont care what their fit and finish is, they charge a retarded amount for not being optioned out. They must think they are kyosho.

I agree on all accounts. And what is with the b4 screws backing out? I have to tighten my rear lower shocks after every heat. Also, even with the slope, the b4 seems fine, it is just annoying. I have heard it said that when the car is tight it is a little twitchy and calms down when the slope arrives, lol. Yeah, the thing I always liked about my b4 was the planted rear AND steering. In the past you normally only have one or the other.

I keep wanting to shim the hell out of the car but everyone says to leave it alone It was working really well for me this past weekend at the JConcepts race. I almost put it on my pillow after this race

^^This^^

the right rear shock screw backs out when the arm gets old as it wears out the hole. replace the arm and the problem will be fixed. you can always put a reverse threaded screw there to prevent it from backing out. let me know if you find a reverse thread screw of that size, im interested as well.

in 8th scale the reverse threaded screw is a must on the front right and rear left shock bottoms, else it will back out after each run. i guess its the same deal with the rear right screw on the b4 since it is front facing just like the front right arm.

quick question about battery fitment: does anybody have issues fitting gens ace packs? I have an original b4 and can't get my gens ace pack to fit all the way rearward. I think the pack is too tall to slide back under the rear shock tower. Do the newer chassis have this issue, too, or is this just because I'm trying to stuff a lipo into a car that was designed for 6 cell NiMh?

Problems with screws on both cars? I dont use thread lock on anything and the only thing I've ever had back off a bit was a shock stand off. If you're having problems with rear bite on the 22, your setup is off, not the car. It is exceptionally responsive to setup changes. Screws are terrible? What the heck gives you this impression?

What Gens Ace battery are you using? I have no problems using them. I used them in my worlds car and my friends RTR version.

When drilling out a piston, as an example, a #2 drilled out with a #55 drill, is the idea to fill the stock holes with CA and then drill two new holes? Or is the intention to just run the #55 drill through the two existing holes?

Thanks and regards,
JB

I replaced the arm and my right lower screws always backs out after 2 heats.

YES it is the right rear. lol, I thought this was just a problem I had, lol

But the new rear shock tower. MAKE SURE ITS PLASTIC. it has a larger cutout for the lipo.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Shock-Tower-B4

If the metal insert in the rod end of the shock is bound up it will do that. I pop mine in and out a few times to free it up.

Can drill the hole out all the way and just use a longer screw, never will come loose again....