I have both at my finger tips. We ran the shorty pack in the 22 mostly for weight reasons. The B4.1 is much lighter than the Losi and I'm going to run 17.5 blinky at the Jconcepts race coming up and I wanted to hear what the dedicated blinky class racers were running. I have been running mod with full size packs since getting the buggy. I've been in the game far too long to go off of one persons opinion :sneaky:

i personally like the shorty hands down,i ran both packs back to back and the full size pack just seemed sluggish,put the shorty pack back in and it had a quicker throttle response,way quicker in the corners,jumps and lands a lot better then the full size pack,i run yellow/red losi springs.i think my car is pretty much dialed right now,the full size pack is now in my sons rtr sc10.

Improvement for the buck doesn't necessarily equate to performance improvement. There really isn't anything about the V2 shock that is going to make it perform any better than the V1. Its when you start to maintain them that its hands down better. The o-ring pack for the V1 is loaded from the inside with a sadistic little white plastic tool and an ill fitting white clip. You are probably unfortunately familiar with these. On the V2, the cartridge is loaded from the outside with a nice little black threaded basket. MUCH easier to work with. I've run both and didn't notice much of a difference in performance.

Thanks for the info. What type of surface do you run on?

i run on indoor clay,the track I've been running at can get pretty loose,and the other track is indoor med bite tack,i haven't run at the med bite track but even on the loose the shorty is awesome

I know a smooth diff makes the case better.. No kidding, lol. I took a diff out of my other car that was recently rebuilt and put it in my B4. It felt a lot more smooth and free. My other car kind of over steers and is annoying. And you can see 1 wheel roster down the straight. I have wondered how much the diff freeness/smoothness affect the cars rotation. I posted a few pages back about not having enough low speed steering and someone recommended removing a washer up front, but could my issue have been greatly due to my old diff that was a lot more stiff? I normally run my diff 1/8 turn back from full tight. What do you think?

duplicate. Website freaked out.

I'm pretty sure I've asked this before but don't remember getting an answer. Is anyone running the brushless hobbies esc with a 17.5 motor in blinky mode? If so what gearing and settings on the esc are you running? I was thinking about going with a 34/75 or somewhere in that ballpark. (oh and I'm running a revtech motor)

If you have the 75 spur I would start at 35 and depending on the track you could go up from there on the pinion. I am running about a 6.4 FDR but in 32 pitch gears (54/22) and I have the Revtech 17.5

when it comes to diffs as i build them, i only tighten them enough that the diff dont slip while holding the outdrives with a hex driver in each slot and use a cloth and try to turn the diff gear. if it turn any i tighten it 1/16 of a turn and repeat until the gear doesnt budge then i install it in the tranny. start the break in process of 20 sec a wheel at 1/4 throttle while holding the other, then repeat it to the other wheel. i check the diff to see if it has loosened any and tighten 1/16 of a turn then i repeat these steps 2 more times after that you will have a smooth diff that should last a while if u used high quality balls and rings such as bfast or even the ae ceramic or carbide balls, they last even longer if u use ceramic thrust also. i hope this help my friend

a tight diff will most definetly keep trhe car from rotating as well and as consistantly

What Losi springs should I use.

red/wh
red/yellow

Are they the 22 springs

Yes