RC10B4.1 FT/WC
 

Placeholder for the tentative August 13 (B4.1) and August 16 (T4.1) release of the RC10B4.1 Factory Team and RC10T4.1 Factory Team. A-Main Hobbies has the most up-to-date picture/price on their site.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...forum-9036.jpg

RC10B4.1 Factory Team Improvements

• Factory Team .5° aluminum rear hubs with oversized outer bearing
• Ball differential with lightweight outdrives
• Factory Team V2 hard-anodized threaded shock bodies with bleed-screw caps
• V2 slipper assembly with high-rate spring for more consistent slipper clutch adjustments
• Pro-Line Vortex body and wing
• Pro-Line M3 Holeshot 2.0 rear and M3 4-rib front tires
• CVA drive shafts with pin retainer clips
• Durable steel center-drilled front axles
• Optimized suspension setup for use with LiPo batteries
• Suspension mounts for 4°, 3.5°, 3°, and 2.5° rear toe included

http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...forum-7023.jpg

RC10T4.1 Factory Team Improvements

• Factory Team 0.5 degree aluminum rear hubs with oversized outer bearing
• Ball differential with light-weight outdrives
• Factory Team V2 hard-anodized threaded shock bodies with bleed-screw caps
• V2 slipper assembly with high-rate spring for more consistent slipper clutch adjustments
• JConcepts Hi-Flow T4 body
• JConcepts Double-Dees rear tires in green compound and Carvers front tires in blue compound
• CVA joints with pin retainer clips
• Optimized suspension setup for use with LiPo batteries
• Suspension mounts for 4°, 3.5°, 3°, and 2.5° rear toe included

Note the V2 shocks, V2 slipper assembly and trick 2-piece hub carriers.

Note the V2 shocks, V2 slipper assembly and trick 2-piece hub carriers.


B4.1 Gear Ratio Chart (Internal Gear Ratio 2.60:1)
http://imageshack.us/a/img145/47/b41gearchart.jpg

Rear upper hubs for the B4.1 aluminum carriers

There has been a lot of discussion on the A versus C hubs for the B4.x platform. The Factory Team Kit comes with A and B plastic uppers. The difference between the A and B hubs is the hole position, while the hole high are the same. The B hub is often referred to as have "in between" hole. Mean the holes are shifted over from the A hub or in between the A holes. The B hub is rarely used for setups. Instead the A hub is used in conjunction with washers under the inner ball stud to achieve similar results as the B hub. The C hub has the same hole positions at the A hub but the holes are lowered 2mm. This is almost used in conjunction with a the shaving of the carbon U-Brace. The "hump" on the ubrace is about 2mm high. So, shaving the brace and lowering the hub mount with the C hub, will overall lower the entire link 2mm. There has been great debate on what the C hub actually does for the handling of the car. Some say it makes the rear rotate better in the corner, but allows for more power coming out and better "square" up. C Hubs more most often used on medium to high bite tracks. A hubs are most often used on lower bite tracks. The big question becomes what is high or low bite. Well the definition is different from region to region. So, in my experience there is one fairly common tool you can use to figure out what yours is. Although it is not a perfect tool, I find it is more often than not correct. It is simply the tires you use.
- If you are running Brocodes, broken in Barcodes or other bar type tires, you are probably medium to high bite. (C hub)
- If your track is perfectly smooth and concrete hard, you are probably med to high bite. (C Hub)
- If you run Double Dee, Holeshots or a Losi stud tire, you are probably low to medium bite. (A hub)
- If your track surface has loose pebbles and debris, you are probably low to medium bite. (A hub)

In the end, you can/should try both and determine for your self which you like best. The information above is simple for new owners that want to know where the C hubs and A hubs are most preferred.

Note: If you are upgrading to the B44 hubs or FT Aluminum Hubs from the RTR plastic hubs, you will need the appropriate crush tubes and outer hub bearing.
ASC7933 - GT2 Crush Tubes
ASC7935 -.187x.50x.196" Ball Bearing [/quote]


Rear Optional Hub Uppers
B44 Plastic Rear Hub Carrier (A Hub)
Factory Team C-Hub
Avid A/C hub
JC Hub Set


Gluing Servo Savers and Aluminum Racks

Why do drivers lock their servo saver(glue it together) or run aluminum racks? We the short answer is "deflection". When corning they tires exert a force on the servo saver and cause it to twist or deflect. This can lead to inconsistent handling. So to remove the deflection, drivers often glue the plastic servo saver together or run and aluminum rack. But you must beware.. The servo saver is there to "save" your server and servo horn. The next weakest link is often the plastic servo horn. So on a hard crash, then servo horn is more likely to break. If you replace the plastic servo horn with an aluminum horn, then your servo will take a beating and could possibly fail. Although the locked or aluminum rack is a performance upgrade, it is not a durability upgrade.

Optonal Aluminum Racks
Factory Team Aluminum Servo Saver
JConcepts Aluminum Servo Saver
Avid Aluminum Servo Saver

Hex Conversion

The hex conversion is not really a performance upgrade. It is more of a convenience upgrade. For owners of the RB5 or Losi 22, it allows them to reuse their wheels. The Losi 22, RB5 and B4 Hex wheels have the same offsets in the rear. The RB5 and the B4 hex fronts have the same offsets. the Losi 22 fronts DO NOT have the same offsets as the B4.1. Another advantage of the B4 hex conversion, is the ability to change front wheel or clean the front wheels without removal of the bearings. Lastly, the conversion in the rear will eliminate any issues of the axle pin stripping out the rim due to improper wheel mounting.

You will need the Team Associated front hex hub, front hex axles, low profile 8-32 wheel nuts, F/R hex rims and F/R hex adapters to complete the conversion.
Note: You need to REMOVE the rear axle spacers when installing the rear hexes.

Option parts - here is a list of parts that can be used in the conversion.

Axles
JConcepts B4 Front Hex Axle
or
Team Associated B4 Front Hex Axle

Hub
Team Associated Front Hex Hub

Hexes- I realize there are many manufactures of the hex adapters, so I only listed the most popular.

Team Associated Plastic B4 Hexes
Team Associated B4 Rear Aluminum Hexes
Team Associated B4 Front Aluminum Hexes
Avid B4 Aluminum Hex Set (F/R)
JConcepts B4 Rear Aluminum Hexes
JConcepts B4 Front Aluminum Hexes

Low Profile Wheel Nuts There are many places to get the wheel nuts. Ace Hardware, JConcepts, XFactory and etc. I am only listing the AE part.
Team Associated 8-32 Low Profile Steel Wheel Nuts

Hex Wheels -Too many to list. Proline, AKA, Avid, JConcepts, Team Associated and a few others make wheels for the B4 Hex. Just remember for the fronts you need a RB5/B4 hex wheel. And for the rear Losi 22/RB5/B4 hex wheel are required.

Big Bore Spring Conversion

The big bore spring conversion accomplishes a couple things. Firstly, the springs are more consistent on compression, because they do not rub the shock body. Secondly, they feel more "plush" on jumps and the rougher parts of the track.

Parts Needed: 12mm Springs, 12mm Lower spring cups and 12mm upper spring retainers.

Ghea BB Collars
Traxxas Uppers
Avid Uppers

Note: In "my" opinion, the Team Associate 12mm lower cups are ideal because of the low cost and ability to use them on the T4/SC10 as well. Team Associated used a standard(short) spring size for the fronts of the B4/T4/SC10. This was accomplished with the usage of the +0, +5 and +9 cup offsets. The AE spring cup tree comes with 4 of each kind.

Team Associated 12mm Spring Cups


Big Bore Rear Spring Rates: - The springs in italics are the "most" commonly used springs for the b4.1

• ASC91335 - 12mm Rear Spring (Black/1.90lbs)
• ASC91336 - 12mm Rear Spring (Green/2.00lbs)
• ASC91337 - 12mm Rear Spring (White/2.10lbs)
• ASC91338 - 12mm Rear Spring (Gray/2.20lbs)
• ASC91339 - 12mm Rear Spring (Blue/2.30lbs)
• ASC91340 - 12mm Rear Spring (Yellow/2.40lbs)

Big Bore Front Spring Rates:
• ASC91325 - 12mm Front Spring (Brown/2.85lbs)
• ASC91326 - 12mm Front Spring (Black/3.00lbs)
• ASC91327 - 12mm Front Spring (Green/3.15lbs)
• ASC91328 - 12mm Front Spring (White/3.30lbs)
• ASC91329 - 12mm Front Spring (Gray/3.45lbs)
• ASC91330 - 12mm Front Spring (Blue/3.60lbs)
• ASC91331 - 12mm Front Spring (Yellow/3.75lbs)
• ASC91332 - 12mm Front Spring (Red/3.90lbs)
• ASC91333 - 12mm Front Spring (Orange/4.05lbs)
• ASC91334 - 12mm Front Spring (Purple/4.20lbs)


Common Losi BB Springs:
Shorty Pack: Losi Red front and white Rear
Full pack: Losi Orange front and Yellow rear.



Updated Shock Towers. This will be a running upgrade, no new part numbers.
B4.2 on the left, B4.1 on the right.
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q...547CB530FB.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q...5474652F74.jpg

Rear Tower...
B4.2 (The only change vs B4.1 rear tower, is the notch for the BB's)
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q...7E591CC15D.jpg



Setup Sheets
Team Associated B4.1 Setup Sheets
PetitRC Team Associated B4.1 Setup Sheets

B4.1 Manual
Team Associated B4.1 Documentation, Parts Lists and Manuals

JQ The Guild - Great guide to help you better tune your B4.
JQ Tuning Guide


Useul Videos
How to Build a ball diff
How to build shocks


Mods

Grub Screw for Rear Hubs: This should eliminate all slop associated between the hinge pin and the hub. You may still experience the bearing slop. Also, if you are experiencing inner hub bearing failure(explosion), upgrade to a better inner hub bearing. After upgrading to AVID hub bearings, I have had no failures.

Tools Needed:
- Dubro Tap set - This will work, but a "Bottom 4-40" tap would work best. It has a flat tip and allows entry into the hinge pin hole better. With the Dubro, you might need to drill a little deeper, so the thread can be tapped all the way through easier.
- 4-40 grub screw The length does not really matter, but don't use a super long set/grub screw. A standard pinion sized grub strew will work nicely.

1. Use a fine pointed "punch" or nail to "indent" where you want to drill. This will help prevent the drill bit from "wandering".
2. Drill a hole into the bottom of the rear hub all the way through until you reach about the middle of the hinge pin
3. Tap hole with 4-40
4. Insert 4-40 grub screw that will go down into the hinge pin.

Note: You can use 1 or 2 grub screws. I used 2 so that each end of the pin was supported, but 1 grub screw in the middle would suffice.

http://imageshack.us/scaled/landing/...ubscrewmod.jpg


Saved U-Brace Mod

Thus Mod is used in conjunction with the C hub and will lower the inside ball stud by about 2mm. To remove the material or "shave" the brace you will need a dremel or an equivalent too for grinding/sanding/milling. Below is a picture describing where to remove the material. The red circled areas need to me shaved to the same level as the u-brace top (yellow arrow).

http://imageshack.us/a/img820/4254/asc9564.jpg


Big Bore Rear Shock Tower Relocation Mod
Hardware required:
2ea 5-40x1/2” Flathead screws AE P/N 9269
2ea 4-40X7/8” Flathead screws Pro tek P/N PTK-H-7107 (Amainhobbies.com)
2ea ¼” spacers (I used 4 3mm spacers Kyosho P/N W0143

Tools required:
#40 Drill bit
Dremel or drill
Countersink

On the “U” brace drill two #40 holes 1/4 “ in front of the original REAR shock tower mounting holes. Using you new holes mount the shock tower and mark the location to drill the front holes, remove the tower and drill those two holes.

Using your countersink, countersink the REAR “U” brace mounting hole that will be covered by the shock tower.

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/b...229_153044.jpg[/IMG]

Mount “U” brace in car using the 5-40 flathead screws, mount shock tower using your new holes. Using the 4-40x7/8” flathead screws and ¼”extend the wing mounts to the proper location. Mount shocks win races.

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/b...229_153606.jpg[/IMG]

You can also find it here.

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/associa...ower4BBShocks/

cant wait. Going be good stuff

For sure...don't know why Losi isn't stepping it up though. Good to see some competition.

AE Is Killer Of All......
 

So if Losi does come out with new Rides will you be jumping ship . To a new bandwagon ?:lol::lol:

Are my eyes playing tricks on me, or are the rear shocks different from the buggy to the truck? In other words, are they still the same shocks between the two?

The T4 and B4 shocks were never the same. They have always had different sized shock bodies.

B4 Shock Bodies are Front .89 and Rear 1.18
T4 Shock Bodies are Front 1.02 and Rear 1.39

The only thing the B4 and T4 shared for shock was the rear springs and the Front T4 Shock shaft is the same as the B4 Rear shock shaft.

Ah, got it. Looking forward to when these hit the shelves.

I have been running the new shocks for a couple of weeks now and no sign of leaks. I have ran one weekend with the shocks on my SC10 and the other time at the track I used them on my T4.

These shocks are going to be super easy to replace the O-Rings. You will never really have to buy a shock rebuild kit again. All you need is the O-Rings.

Awesome...where'd you get the new shocks from? I'm thinking about canceling my Tower backorder and just get the new kits instead.

RC10B4.1 Factory Team Pricing
 

Pricing:

MSRP RC10B4.1 Factory Team: $399.99

http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...forum-b4.1.jpg

RC10T4.1 Factory Team Pricing
 

Pricing:

MSRP RC10T4.1 Factory Team: $409.99

http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...forum-t4.1.jpg

thats where i was i was like hmm new shocks, new hub carriers, new slipper assembly might as well spend 100 more and get a whole new kit :sneaky: now i am just waiting for the B44.1 to come out with new hubs, new slippers, and the cam mount to finish out the group:nod:

Totally agree...makes more sense to get the whole kit than to buy all those parts. I just canceled my order. August 13th is around the corner.

Does anyone know if you can use the old shock springs with the new shocks?

Why wouldn't you be able to, they aren't big bore shocks...:confused::weird:

If Associated has made new ones, something could be different.

Why would they make a new shock that you have to get a new spring for???:weird::rolleyes:

They use the same pistons, springs, caps, and thread collars. The only difference is they have the lower cap now.

Ah, thanks for the info.

B4.1
 

http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...arrier.600.jpg I hate this pin set-up. I wish they would have changed this.:confused:

Why does associated have such inconsistent anodizing?

All the aluminum parts are a slightly different shade of blue? I understand the turnbuckles being a little different because they are titanium, but question the different blues on the other parts....always seemed odd since other companies (Kyosho, Yokomo, Hotbodies, etc) have pretty consistent anodizing.

Does it come back to being made in China vs Japan?

#1 the pieces could be made at different vendors, #2 quality control hasn't been set tight enough to reject the parts outside of the boundary samples (sample parts used to designate the acceptable range of color shade) assuming they have them. It is pretty difficult for a smaller part vendors to produce anodizing in very consistent shades and it is price driven so the lowest bidder gets to make the parts.

It's been the same way with AE's shock bodies for years.

I kinda agree...having the QC setup would have been perfect. The Kyosho RT5 should have been the benchmark...QC in the front and rear, so you only need one type of wheel for your pit box. I guess you could always buy the QC rear setup and Cameron Kellog's conversion for the front. But that would tack on another $70-80, which would in turn buy you 10 pairs of wheels.

Blue is one of the hardest colors to consistently reproduce when anodizing aluminum (I would have to say that green is #2). I've seen the same variance in hues on blue Yokomo parts, as well.:nod:

I totally agree...my Yokomo GT4 has varying hues of blue. I don't know how anodizing actually works, but you would think that they would have mastered the process by now.

Black anodizing still looks the best to me (like on the Losi 2.0 EU edition).

http://www.modelflight.com.au/team_l..._roller_12.jpg

I will check but I think you can use the rear hubs on this if you just cut the threads off. Now that AE changed there rear cv's their kit will not work on the rear, unless they put out a new kit. I am running AE stuff again so I will come up with a easy fix for the rear. My front hubs will fit right on the new truck.(Thanks AE for not putting me out of business :lol:)

I have the new SC truck that has the new cv's so I will see what I can come up with for a rear kit. I feel the AE quick change is the best one out even better than Kyosho's. They lock in without messing with a hex and my front kit stays pretty slop free which Kyosho's is not. If your a long term AE fan then the quick change wheels front and back is the best when tires are costing what they do. I think J-concepts is selling their quick change wheels right now for 10.00 for 4, what a deal!!!

I will also have a bolt on front axle for the SC10 soon. It still uses the nut to hold the wheel on but bolts to the steering block. This helps keep the axle tight on the steering block and not get sloppy there too. You won't loose e-clips either. I don't really like the new axles that use the bolt on the outside too; I guess I am too old school and like a nut out there.

:tire: Keep on racing. :D

^^^ - Thanks for that, Cameron. Let us know when you have the fix for the rear of the T4.1 FT.

I have the new yokomo bmax factory team and all the blue is pretty darn close, if not exact (and there is a lot of alloy on that thing!). Even the blue anodizing on my BJ4 W.E. is pretty much an exact match.

On the B44 I had, the front casters, servo mounts, and rear wing mount were a darker blue. The center diff/motor mounts and front shock tower brace were a lighter blue.

Anyway, I don't see the variance in other brands...so maybe Associated just has different vendors doing different parts.

i have a 150mm length hyperion battery, will it fit in a b4.1 battery tray?

Factory B4.1 Now Shipping
 

Have they actually shipped? anyone get theirs yet?

I believe a few members have received their Factory Team SC10's...but no word on the B4.1's or T4.1's...we need some unboxing threads to start appearing.

I got the 4.1 RTR about a 6 weeks ago and its doing well, indeed:lol: The stock RTR shocks are mediocre, so I just put TC bladders in them and issues solved. Reliable and very smooth, and competitive. Mayfield's 2009 Cactus Classic set up works good on the B4.1 and with a MM PRO and 13.5 ballistic it's really good.

Any one know if the t4.1 ft kits have carbon components couldn't find this info anywhere.:confused:I did some research on the t4.1 ft kit compared to the t4 ft kit and found that the new kit weighs 3.8 lb. and the old kit weighs 3.1 lb.So i guess this is either more alluminumn or no carbon:cry:

Factory Team Sc10's are available now. A friend just bought one this Tuesday but from a local hobby shop. Apparently, Associated is sending the kits directly to the local hobby shops first not to big distributors such as Great Plains,etc.
idbdoug

That's gotta be a typo. .7/lb = 11.2 ounces, roughly the weight of a 2s Lipo.

That's good to hear...glad LHS's have a chance to recoup some money.

One of the AE employees said that there is no carbon componets in the new kit. They said the added flex makes it more drivable. He went on to say that Ryan Cavalieri used the carbon arms at the recent shootout when the temps went up. He gave no explaination for that.

Check AE's website at the t4 ft and then the t4.1 ft specs and you will see a noticeable increase in wieght.And i sinceraly hope it is a typo because thats a lot of extra weight.