Originally Posted by rb-digi (Post 11183965)

i got a dumb question..when converting to hex's on the front end of the b4.1 and using clamping style hexs (avid in my case) is there any reason to run a roll pin thru the axle? like there is no drive to make them slip and it seems to be attached well with out it..i didnt see any mention of them in the required parts list for conversion..thnks in advance..oh and is there any options when it comes to a low profile front axle nut.all new tires and hexs ready to go and none of my lhs's have the associated ASC9880,,any thing else or another brands nut work dialed? ;)

Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 (Post 11184357)

yeah, but a little pricy. I prefer 80 cents at ace to almost $14

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Nut-Set-Blue-4

Originally Posted by EricJ (Post 11184450)

How about these from mcmaster.com (search the part numbers)?

90633A009 - Zinc-plated nylon-insert lock nuts - $0.023 each.
90101A009 - Stainless nylon-insert lock nuts - $0.0852 each.

We usually run the much more expensive "expanding" lock nuts...

94830A490 - Cadmium-plated - $0.442 each.
94140A490 - Stainless - $1.276 each (pricey).

In all cases, I've started using loctite pretty regularly, especially on the thin front nuts. Rears can go a few race days between re-application, but fronts have so little to grab on, it's just safer to use more.

Originally Posted by 3srcracing (Post 11177400)

So I am trying that anodizing thing and it's not working. I got one to work but now they are just going in the same color they came out (dark gray) any idea what I am doing wrong?

I have the negative wire on the turnbuckle positive in the simple green (no dolited). I have it for I have 81Volts to get the shiny gold. I even checked it with the volt meter to make sure its 81 volts and it is. I wrap it on the tip of the turnbuckle put it in right before the wire touches leave until bubbles stop or 35 seconds. And then pull out, but nothing happens?

What am I doing wrong?

Originally Posted by Sylvain (Post 11184523)

What are the benefits of using 12mm hex in front?

I understand for the rear wheels but not for the front.... :(

Originally Posted by Atomicsickness (Post 11184572)

Bearings are not retained in the rim is the biggest advantage for me. I hat having to pop the bearings out of the rim every time I take them off.

Originally Posted by ilanstylz (Post 11184587)

You know I never thought of that but it makes perfect sense. I can't remember how many times I've change out my front rims at home or the track and had a bearing or two get away from me only to go rolling all over the place and me chasing after it. Not a good sight for a big guy to be crawling on the ground looking under pit tables lol.....

Originally Posted by B.A. Racer (Post 11184473)

why use locktite? when the nut even feels just a little loose..replace it...or just buy serrated.

Originally Posted by rb-digi (Post 11184680)

i think there is a lil bit of added weight to converting to hex in the front also ..i think i talked with someone about that ..i will actually like a tad more weight up there.hey i got another dumb question,,after installing is all the width the same up front? i may have mis understood but a buddy runnin sc10 that converted to hex recently was sayin it widened it a bit,??

Originally Posted by B.A. Racer (Post 11184473)

why use locktite? when the nut even feels just a little loose..replace it...or just buy serrated.

Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 (Post 11184724)

you cant use serrated on all wheels. I dont believe they work on DE rims for instance. And I have never had a nylon lock not come off.

Originally Posted by Atomicsickness (Post 11184572)

Bearings are not retained in the rim is the biggest advantage for me. I hat having to pop the bearings out of the rim every time I take them off.

Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 (Post 11184724)

you cant use serrated on all wheels. I dont believe they work on DE rims for instance. And I have never had a nylon lock not come off.

Originally Posted by rb-digi (Post 11183965)

i got a dumb question..when converting to hex's on the front end of the b4.1 and using clamping style hexs (avid in my case) is there any reason to run a roll pin thru the axle? like there is no drive to make them slip and it seems to be attached well with out it..i didnt see any mention of them in the required parts list for conversion..thnks in advance..oh and is there any options when it comes to a low profile front axle nut.all new tires and hexs ready to go and none of my lhs's have the associated ASC9880,,any thing else or another brands nut work dialed? ;)

Originally Posted by jpcopeland1 (Post 11182947)

Having watched a factory driver just get his BB's yesterday and building and mounting them I can tell you this much. The front shock tower gets hit by the adjustment collar, only solution is to space it out 2mm and use longer mounting screws for the top of the aluminum cap. The back is a mess. He basically had to remove so much material to be able to use the inner hole on the tower that it is now a very weak point. At around $60.00 per set, your going to have to do mods to the car that will weaken it. One thing about them is this, They are very very smooth, as smooth if not more then the Kyosho big bores. A new rear tower was mentioned but there is no date of release. From what he said a press release should go out next week with availablility of the BB shocks the week after. I will wait on them until they fix the problems with the towers. My Kyosho/Avid BB spring mod is working just fine. Plus I have a working setup for them.

Originally Posted by rigor (Post 11185745)

Yo Copeland do you know if Hartson has already had these new shock towers all this time ? When I've looked at his car at OC_RC, it looked like the towers were fine (granted I was looking at the shocks & springs far closer than the towers).

These pics of Maifield & Denny's cars from the Hotrod Shootout don't look like mangled shock towers either :confused:

Jesse H.

http://blog.jconcepts.net/wp-content...ifield-2wd.jpg
http://blog.jconcepts.net/wp-content.../07/Denney.jpg

Originally Posted by rigor (Post 11185745)

Yo Copeland do you know if Hartson has already had these new shock towers all this time ? When I've looked at his car at OC_RC, it looked like the towers were fine (granted I was looking at the shocks & springs far closer than the towers).

These pics of Maifield & Denny's cars from the Hotrod Shootout don't look like mangled shock towers either :confused:

Jesse H.

http://blog.jconcepts.net/wp-content...ifield-2wd.jpg
http://blog.jconcepts.net/wp-content.../07/Denney.jpg

Originally Posted by bilster44 (Post 11186130)

No shaving needed...

Originally Posted by rigor (Post 11185745)

Yo Copeland do you know if Hartson has already had these new shock towers all this time ? When I've looked at his car at OC_RC, it looked like the towers were fine (granted I was looking at the shocks & springs far closer than the towers).

These pics of Maifield & Denny's cars from the Hotrod Shootout don't look like mangled shock towers either :confused:

Jesse H.

http://blog.jconcepts.net/wp-content...ifield-2wd.jpg
http://blog.jconcepts.net/wp-content.../07/Denney.jpg

Originally Posted by Atomicsickness (Post 11185990)

Looks cut pretty good to me.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...nend/tower.jpg

Originally Posted by jpcopeland1 (Post 11186607)

Its about the same amount as we had to do with the RB5 when we mounted bog bores on them. a 2mm spacer seems to allow the front shocks to clear without grinding so much off the front tower, the rear tower either needs a new mounting system, or a new tower. Shimming will not work as it will just cause the springs to grab on the rear camber link and thats a big problem. It does not work right with the components that will come with the production big bore shocks most noticably the aluminum cap and spring load collar.

Originally Posted by ilanstylz (Post 11184587)

You know I never thought of that but it makes perfect sense. I can't remember how many times I've change out my front rims at home or the track and had a bearing or two get away from me only to go rolling all over the place and me chasing after it. Not a good sight for a big guy to be crawling on the ground looking under pit tables lol.....

Originally Posted by STLNLST (Post 11186627)

Shimming porperly gives clearence to the rear camber link.

Originally Posted by Barrett50.cal (Post 11186559)

the rear tower doesnt look like the current one

Originally Posted by jpcopeland1 (Post 11186637)

The shocks you saw were using the old style pivot ball with eyelet or the new style which are slightly longer and eyelet is not just a round ball anymore and is spaced further out for the shock to clear the spring?

Originally Posted by associatevalley (Post 11186841)

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