Originally Posted by bcgriff

I am beyond confused when I read everyone's posts regarding tire and wheel selection.

I understand the stock tire/wheel combo on the SCRT-10 is too small.

What size wheel is best?

What tire is best?

Do I need any offset for different wheels to work?

I understand the response will be purely opinion, but I am just trying to get a better idea of what to get.

Thanks in advance!

Originally Posted by wstuart

Spares - arms diff seals shock seals - plastic steering parts, hubs and blocks if you dent get aluminum, hinge pins, hardware.




Essential upgrades for racing:

The rear upper a-arm hinge pin retainer - this is guaranteed to break if you dont get aluminum


akerman bar must be aluminum.

steering ball cups must be replaced with traxxas ball joints - some use dubro, some use rpm ball cups - i prefer traxxas. you will have to dremel down the joint and front diff case to retain your steering when you use these though.

front bumper - either t-bone racing or the "sc10 mod" - i like t-bone

aluminum servo arm

jconcepts rulux slash-rear offset all the way around and aka tires. the only proline tires i would get would be suburbs for indoor clay.



Recommended:

front c-hubs and steering blocks (strc).

rear hubs - aluminum

dont waiste your money on ofna parts get strc

carbon fiber top plate

aluminum steering rack.
Be sure to get the newest strc one because the original strc steering rack had a defect

desert rat 2.0 body.


My opinion:


I just swapped out my strc aluminum steering for stock and I bought the PBS so I could save weight. the car feels way lighter and drives way better!!!!
Using that much aluminum up front adds ALOT of weight that is not necessary if you drive like an idiot. I do agree that all the hubs and steering should be aluminum but only if you are the guy trying to hit the quad every lap

this is the best advice Ive gotten on this car and it came from the fastest guy at our track (who hasnt modified a single part).

"Instead of trying the quad - double double. And instead of spending $150 on aluminum, drive conservative and right and spend the money on dialed tires (AKA ENDURO SS ftw). you have a lighter faster car everywhere else on the track and your gains in consistency will more than make up for the .5 sec you lost by doubling in."

I still havnt decided if i like the pbs. its definitely durable and way lighter but i feel like i have less steering. i will know for sure if i like it after i race west coast this sunday and ill make a post

Originally Posted by chiro972

While I disagree on the essentials for racing. I have not added any aluminum stuff to mine and I race very competitively. On the other hand, the comment about driving more conservatively is absolutely spot on.

I get really frustrated watching people try a nearly unmakeable jump lap after lap. They make it once and think they will do it every time. Crashing and getting marshalled just once in a race will probably wipe out any time savings you made making it that one time. I don't know why people don't learn this lesson sooner. Granted I have been racing almost 30 years, but I learned long ago I'm not the fastest guy out there by a long shot, but by driving conservatively and not crashing, I seem to always be very competitive at the races.

Originally Posted by ShortCourseOnly

Clearly all those Jammin owners that are racing are using either the 2.2/3.0 SCT wheels and tires or the 8th scale buggy wheels/tires with 17mm hex drive adapters. Tire/wheel selection has a lot to do with which body you are using. The stock body can fit the Slash rear wheels and tires with some additional trimming. Proline makes the zero offset wheels that work even better under the stock body. If you consider after market SCT bodies then you can use the Slash Fronts and still be within ROAR specs. I have a set of Rulux Slash fronts and JConcept Subcultures that I will be using in my next race. I have not used Slash fronts yet and want the additional stability that width should provide.


Best Wheels: I think Slash Fronts are the right choice. The 2.2/3.0 wheels are ROAR legal.
Best tires: Track dependant. I have seen the following tires most:
- AKA Enduros Soft and Supersoft
- Proline Bowties M3 or M4
- Proline Caliber M3 or M4
- JConcept Subcultures

Originally Posted by wstuart

akerman bar must be aluminum.

Originally Posted by wstuart

Spares - arms diff seals shock seals - plastic steering parts, hubs and blocks if you dent get aluminum, hinge pins, hardware.




Essential upgrades for racing:

The rear upper a-arm hinge pin retainer - this is guaranteed to break if you dont get aluminum


akerman bar must be aluminum.

steering ball cups must be replaced with traxxas ball joints - some use dubro, some use rpm ball cups - i prefer traxxas. you will have to dremel down the joint and front diff case to retain your steering when you use these though.

front bumper - either t-bone racing or the "sc10 mod" - i like t-bone

aluminum servo arm

jconcepts rulux slash-rear offset all the way around and aka tires. the only proline tires i would get would be suburbs for indoor clay.



Recommended:

front c-hubs and steering blocks (strc).

rear hubs - aluminum

dont waiste your money on ofna parts get strc

carbon fiber top plate

aluminum steering rack.
Be sure to get the newest strc one because the original strc steering rack had a defect

desert rat 2.0 body.


My opinion:


I just swapped out my strc aluminum steering for stock and I bought the PBS so I could save weight. the car feels way lighter and drives way better!!!!
Using that much aluminum up front adds ALOT of weight that is not necessary if you drive like an idiot. I do agree that all the hubs and steering should be aluminum but only if you are the guy trying to hit the quad every lap

this is the best advice Ive gotten on this car and it came from the fastest guy at our track (who hasnt modified a single part).

"Instead of trying the quad - double double. And instead of spending $150 on aluminum, drive conservative and right and spend the money on dialed tires (AKA ENDURO SS ftw). you have a lighter faster car everywhere else on the track and your gains in consistency will more than make up for the .5 sec you lost by doubling in."

I still havnt decided if i like the pbs. its definitely durable and way lighter but i feel like i have less steering. i will know for sure if i like it after i race west coast this sunday and ill make a post

Originally Posted by bcgriff

I am not familiar with what you are calling the "akerman bar". What is that? Is there another more common name for it?

Originally Posted by bcgriff

What are everyone's thoughts on the front upper CNC arm holders?
OFN40896

Originally Posted by SaladFork

Defiantly better than stock, however I have broke one of the aluminum ones a few weeks ago. The aluminum servo bell crank/ackerman is also nice, if you look at the stock part it's pretty weak. I have bent the aluminum ackerman also but was able to bend it back. No parts are safe with me he he.

Originally Posted by PsycoB4

Thank you very much. Now What is this slash Rear off set???

What ESC/Motor Combo does one run??

I was thinking Mamba Monster with a 2650 kv motor??

Originally Posted by bcgriff

I bet your the guy trying to clear the quad every time?