Yeah I have been trying for ages to get the damn pins out but no dice...

I personally wouldn't even worry about the shocks. By the time it would actually matter, you may find you rather just pick up a FT kit than peicing it together.

I used channel lock pliers to squeeze it out. Works better than trying to pull it out.
I have move on to hardened pins and they can be pushed in and out with ease.

same thing in a way here. I latch on with the channel locks, then hammer the end of the plier so it forces it out.

You could also try lining up a hardened pin and using that to push the stuck pin through.

No hammering here. Just squeeze the handle and the pin comes through. Get rid of the weak roll pins and use the hardened pins. They last 600% longer.

What do you guys think?
 

I have a Futaba 3305 servo and I'm thinking about putting in an aluminum steering rack, will the servo survive? lol

Pro-line makes zero offset wheels for their slash pro-trak kit. They are the wheel I run on my SC10. Any wheel for the SC10 4x4 will work, as they are the same offset too. Tell the clowns at your LHS that I said they have no idea what they are talking about (like most clowns at most LHS').

Well it is a metal gear servo with an okay speed and torque rating. What will determine the lifespan of that servo with the aluminum rack is going to be how often you hit things. Not very often, should be fine. Hit stuff all the time, probably going to blow the servo. If you fall into the latter category a bit of CA glue on the stock servo saver will accomplish the same performance effect as the aluminum rack, but if you hit it hard enough, it will break free, as opposed to destroying your servo. The aluminum rack is good for a consistant racer who doesnt crash very much. Lets say a good racer just has a glued stock servo saver, and has one bad crash that could break the glue. Now for the rest of that race their cars handling will be inconsistant. One bad crash with the aluminum rack isn't going to blow the servo, it is repeated bad crashes that are going to cause the servo to go south.

Unfortunately if you have the pin wedged and have been squeezing it to force it through, you can deform the roll pin making it even tougher to get it to come through.

If you go with the aluminum rack, using a plastic servo horn can save your servo. On a hard enough crash, the horn itself will just simply strip out or break.

Does it suck, yeah, but its definitely cheaper than replacing a high dollar servo.

I used to have one of these I made out of a small c clamp worked like a charm....

http://www.amazon.com/OTC-7248-U-Joi.../dp/B000OCFIAQ

I would probably agree with you on this :nod:

Your local gun shop or gunsmith is very accustomed to removing tight roll pins! Ever try to strip a Walther? If you don't want to buy a tool, they would have every pin pulling/pushing mechanism that is out.

My stock rtr steering servo crapped out, and I had a cheap futaba 3003 laying around so I decided to throw that in my SC10 until I get a decent servo.

I noticed these servos have to be installed upside down?? So now my steering is reversed. Maybe I put something in wrong somewhere, I don't know?

What do I need to do to correct the steering?

I'm using the RTR reciever and I don't know if it's possible to reverse the steering on it?

I also noticed this servo doesn't have much of a turning radius and that worries me for when I finally visit the track.. Is there a way to get more steering??

Thanks,
Zac

is the steering setting on your controller turned up to a 100% it could be labled as steering travel or something

Mount the servo the correct way, flip the servo reversing switch and then adjust the end points. If you don't have end point adjustment, try dual rate. If you don't have dual rate its time to look for another radio. Those old 3003's are real turds aren't they. Slow and weak.