Yeah, as long as it says it is a 12mm hex hub, you should be fine. If you still aren't sure about a certain wheel, just post a link to the listing on here. I will be more then happy to take a look at it and let you know

One more question, i glued my servo saver and it definitely improved the steering, however, i had two dnf's due to the servo link ripping the ball ends off of their little turnbuckle. Whats the fix for that?

Can you elaborate? I'm just a little confused. I assume you are talking about the turnbuckles that attach to the front caster blocks? And are you saying that the ball ends are popping off of the black ball studs or that the ball end threads are actually coming out of the turnbuckle threads?

Unglue the servo saver

And a piece of 3m sandpaper with a squirt of motor spray for lube. I wish somebody made a caged thurst bearing with contoured races.

Lowering the outer ball stud/raising the inside ball stud lowers the roll center.


How many shims do you have under the rear inner ball stud on the camber link?

Im talking about the little link from the servo to the bellcrank. Its pulled the ball ends off the threads.

Then I have no steering. This was a temporary fix until I could get the Avid bellcrank. But its looking like im gonna have to use the crappy servo saver. Guess I could upgrade to an aluminum one.

Ohh, I see. Hmm, well I'd say if you already pulled the servo link threads out of the ball ends threads, then it probably ripped up the plastic threads in the ball end and you would most likely need to replace it to properly hold again. I would assume that because you made the servo saver solid (by gluing it), that instead of the force being expired in the servo saver spring, it was expired on your servo link/ball end. I would have initially said to maybe just super glue the ball end to the servo link, but I would imagine this could be damaging to your servo. I mean, if there was enough force on your servo link to rip the threads out of the ball end, then it surely can't be good to put that force onto your servo gears.

Did this issue just occur during driving, or did it happen during a bad wreck? I honestly am not sure what to tell you on this one, but maybe someone else may have an idea I personally considered buying the Avid steering set http://www.avidrc.com/product/5/acce...ccesories.html(a solid design with no servo saver spring), but decided against it as I was worried that I am not a skilled enough driver yet to eliminate the spring and risk the force of a wreck getting put onto other steering components. Rather, I opted for an aluminum Hot Racing set that is more similar to the stock design, but eliminates A LOT of the stock steering slop.

I had this problem once also. I put shrink tubing over the whole linkage and then just cut the holes out for the ballstuds. Haven't had a problem with it since. Hope that helps.

Here is a link to the aluminum Hot Racing steering servo saver set that I currently have installed. It eliminates a lot of the stock slop, but still gives me the safety net of a servo saver.

http://www.toadzrc.com/aluminum-stee...c10-b4-t4.html

I don't like the battery strap setup and was wondering if there is another option available for my SC10. The reason why I am asking is that some of my packs are thick and it makes it quite hard at times to turn those locking 'wing nuts.'

I have seen other car setups where the battery strap is being secured by bolts/screws were something where you can just screw them in by hand or something.

Is this option for us? If so, I must not be finding such a thing in my search.

i used these when i had mine.
http://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/1787/

Yeah, something like that! I did not know what to 'google' on and maybe that is why I am missing it. Thanks for showing me that.

So, this should be something that I can remove the existing tabs and then use these, correct?

Very clever! And cheap! Thanks man.

Can somebody tell me the parts/part numbers needed to convert to hex wheels on all four corners? Thanks.