SC10 Thread
02-04-2012 | 10:15 PM
#9616
I would be un-inclined to soften the springs.
How many shims do you have under the inner rear ball stud? Are you using the SC10 4x4 ball studs, because they are lower than the 4/40 AE factory ones and need 1mm more spacing to get them equivalent.
The Losi springs are fine, they aren't any faster than the AE ones, but my chassis looks pimp in the pits.
How many shims do you have under the inner rear ball stud? Are you using the SC10 4x4 ball studs, because they are lower than the 4/40 AE factory ones and need 1mm more spacing to get them equivalent.
The Losi springs are fine, they aren't any faster than the AE ones, but my chassis looks pimp in the pits.
as far as the shims, It's bone FT stock.
Calibers are a Small pin cluster. They fit in no category.
02-05-2012 | 12:04 AM
#9617
Are you high?
I used to replace carbide diff balls once a weekend in my pan oval car. Since I switched to ceramic, I have used the same set of diff balls and rings since 2005!, and they are still perfect. I disassemble, clean, and sand the rings once a race weekend, but I was doing that anyway.
I have ceramic diff balls in my SC10 I bought from John here, for less than the AE carbide replacements used to cost:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ce-rctech.html
As long as you don't lose one, and resand the rings with 320 or 400 when they get gritty, they should last forever.
I used to replace carbide diff balls once a weekend in my pan oval car. Since I switched to ceramic, I have used the same set of diff balls and rings since 2005!, and they are still perfect. I disassemble, clean, and sand the rings once a race weekend, but I was doing that anyway.
I have ceramic diff balls in my SC10 I bought from John here, for less than the AE carbide replacements used to cost:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ce-rctech.html
As long as you don't lose one, and resand the rings with 320 or 400 when they get gritty, they should last forever.
02-05-2012 | 12:08 AM
#9618
I would be un-inclined to soften the springs.
How many shims do you have under the inner rear ball stud? Are you using the SC10 4x4 ball studs, because they are lower than the 4/40 AE factory ones and need 1mm more spacing to get them equivalent.
I had a failure on my SC10 today. While leading a main. The 4/40 that holds the bottom of the front shock in somehow backed out. I slowed my pace way down, and finished on 3 wheels. Never done that before.....
The Losi springs are fine, they aren't any faster than the AE ones, but my chassis looks pimp in the pits.
How many shims do you have under the inner rear ball stud? Are you using the SC10 4x4 ball studs, because they are lower than the 4/40 AE factory ones and need 1mm more spacing to get them equivalent.
I had a failure on my SC10 today. While leading a main. The 4/40 that holds the bottom of the front shock in somehow backed out. I slowed my pace way down, and finished on 3 wheels. Never done that before.....
The Losi springs are fine, they aren't any faster than the AE ones, but my chassis looks pimp in the pits.
02-05-2012 | 03:44 AM
#9619
Quick question, I plan on converting my truck to hexes on all four corners. Is there a difference in the offset for front and rear wheels or are they the same? I just want to be sure what wheels to buy.
02-05-2012 | 05:47 AM
#9620
I installed 4 JConcept Hazards on my truck, gives it an overall stance that is 6mm wider.
02-05-2012 | 10:04 AM
#9622
huh Yeah
It will handle different than using stock offset wheels.
Most people use the Hazards for the SC10 4x4.
I use them some times if the track is very slick and need a little more side traction, allowing me to enter a corner a little faster compared to the stock offset rims.
It's a driving style type thing mainly
It will handle different than using stock offset wheels.
Most people use the Hazards for the SC10 4x4.
I use them some times if the track is very slick and need a little more side traction, allowing me to enter a corner a little faster compared to the stock offset rims.
It's a driving style type thing mainly
02-05-2012 | 11:12 AM
#9623
Tech Elite
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 2,069
I have what is almost certainly a newb question...
When I hit the throttle I get a clicking sound. Is that the slipper plates skipping in their hex shapes, the idler gear, the dog bones... ???
It's an SC10RS with the gear diff. I've added a pretty heavy weight grease in the diff and used the same grease in the gearbox. The drive train seems pretty smooth so I'm assuming it's the slipper. I've tightened the slipper down and it didn't seem to go away.
It doesn't seem to only happen from a standing start either... it seem to happen any time I increase the throttle and not in either direction more than the other.
When I hit the throttle I get a clicking sound. Is that the slipper plates skipping in their hex shapes, the idler gear, the dog bones... ???
It's an SC10RS with the gear diff. I've added a pretty heavy weight grease in the diff and used the same grease in the gearbox. The drive train seems pretty smooth so I'm assuming it's the slipper. I've tightened the slipper down and it didn't seem to go away.
It doesn't seem to only happen from a standing start either... it seem to happen any time I increase the throttle and not in either direction more than the other.
) However I still get the same thing after installing it. I don't see anyway for the ball diff to make that noise. After the clicking, it got to where the truck wouldn't move and would only click until I reversed a couple of feet, then I would get going again.
Also, I checked the idler and it looked fine when I put the ball diff in, I suppose I could have wrecked it afterwards playing around on the street, but I wasn't jumping and I could hear the slipper working.
When I put the ball diff in, I did have some side-to-side action between the outdrives and the case, could that be the issue as well? What diff shims fit this truck?
EDIT: I took the tranny apart again and took a closer look it the idler gear, while It's not missing any teeth and they don't look worn, I can see a shallow groove down the middle of the gear looking at it horizontally. Maybe that was the issue. I'm going to replace it and see what happens.
Last edited by Mizchief; 02-05-2012 at 04:53 PM.
02-05-2012 | 12:21 PM
#9624
Tech Adept
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 147
I am experiencing alot of body roll on the truck. I have 8mm of shims in the shocks. Red springs up front blues in the back. 35wt front 30wt back. I ran high bite clay and it feels very twitchy to drive. Any solutions?
02-05-2012 | 03:43 PM
#9625
Have you tried a rear sway bar? I love my truck with this. I have the stock set up otherwise and it is far more stable and still has good traction and I drive on a track that gets a little slippery.
02-05-2012 | 03:57 PM
#9627
What tires and wheels do you use? I have found that JConcepts Pressure Points and Hazard wheels help out.