I've had great luck with the ACER carbide's. Ive had carbide in my diff and thrust for at least 6 months now and there still as smooth as they were new..

why not use ceramic?

Notice I have 2 different lengths of crush tubes. Longer one seems to be the correct length if it is supposed to reach the inside of each bearing. Still do not understand how they work if anyone can give a brief explanation. Thanks.

Drove my FT for the first time today.

thing. was. Squirly!

assuming the factory team setup?

not sure of the conditions you ran on, but I thought it felt like the setup was a bit on the stiff side for carpet.

Hardpack with a small dust layer running Calibers

Stock setup, with Losi spring change-over.


Yeah, It drove fine, it just was 100% unforgiving.

yeah, worth a look at next step softer springs.

Anybody having problems with roll pins bending in front with wheel hexes?They make the axle spin weired. I might try the FT solid ones but im afraid the inboard hub might snap instead of the roll pin bending

it stops the bearings from binding when you tighten down the wheel

probably better off running a small pin. those stock grey rear springs are much too stiff for outdoor, hardpacked. most run green or silver.

Calibers are small pin. It was just a little too loamy with ucky patches for Suburbs.

And I use losi springs, not AE.

In my experience they don't seem to last as long..

the Holeshot is a small pin tire that works great on hardpacked, dusty surfaces.

the caliber is good if the loam is wet then it can dig in. caliber isn't considered small pin.

the Losi springs you're running may be too stiff as well, just sayin. Their spring rates don't match up the same.

Are you high?

I used to replace carbide diff balls once a weekend in my pan oval car. Since I switched to ceramic, I have used the same set of diff balls and rings since 2005!, and they are still perfect. I disassemble, clean, and sand the rings once a race weekend, but I was doing that anyway.

I have ceramic diff balls in my SC10 I bought from John here, for less than the AE carbide replacements used to cost:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ce-rctech.html

As long as you don't lose one, and resand the rings with 320 or 400 when they get gritty, they should last forever.

I would be un-inclined to soften the springs.

How many shims do you have under the inner rear ball stud? Are you using the SC10 4x4 ball studs, because they are lower than the 4/40 AE factory ones and need 1mm more spacing to get them equivalent.

I had a failure on my SC10 today. While leading a main. The 4/40 that holds the bottom of the front shock in somehow backed out. I slowed my pace way down, and finished on 3 wheels. Never done that before.....

The Losi springs are fine, they aren't any faster than the AE ones, but my chassis looks pimp in the pits.