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Old 01-30-2012 | 11:14 AM
  #9466  
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What losi springs are bn used on the trucks. What are the spring rate chart of the springs. I want to make sure I use ethe equal rates of springs
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Old 01-30-2012 | 11:32 AM
  #9467  
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does anybody know how to get negative gain in the rear, I have tried all link locations and only get positive gain. any help would be awesome thanks
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Old 01-30-2012 | 11:36 AM
  #9468  
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Originally Posted by gamedog1966
What losi springs are bn used on the trucks. What are the spring rate chart of the springs. I want to make sure I use ethe equal rates of springs
If you want to use equal rates of springs. no real point to waste the money on the BB springs than

But see if this helps you
Rear Buggy/SC10 2wd Springs AE
Two red 2.95 lb. springs (#7436)
Two gold 2.75 lb. springs (#7435)
Two blue 2.55 lb. springs (#7434)
Two silver 2.10 lb. springs (#6478)
Two green 1.90 lb. springs (#6480)

Front SC10 2wd springs AE
Two red 3.90 lb. springs (#7430)
Two gold 3.70 lb. springs (#7425)
Two blue 3.45 lb. springs (#7429)

Losi 22 BB springs

Front

TLR5172 Front Shock Spring, 2.5 Rate, Red
TLR5173 Front Shock Spring, 2.9 Rate, Orange
TLR5174 Front Shock Spring, 3.2 Rate, Silver
TLR5175 Front Shock Spring, 3.5 Rate, Green
TLR5176 Front Shock Spring, 3.8 Rate, Blue
TLR5177 Front Shock Spring, 4.1 Rate, Black

Rear
TLR5165 Rear Shock Spring, 1.6 Rate, Grey
TLR5166 Rear Shock Spring, 1.8 Rate, White
TLR5167 Rear Shock Spring, 2.0 Rate, Yellow
TLR5168 Rear Shock Spring, 2.3 Rate, Pink
TLR5169 Rear Shock Spring, 2.6 Rate, Red
TLR5170 Rear Shock Spring,: 2.9 Rate, Orange
TLR5171 Rear Shock Spring, 3.4 Rate, Silver



I have not used any Losi BB springs on the front of the 2wd truck yet, I know on the Buggy if you want to run Red front you need to shave .060" off the shock end eye to allow for the spring being larger. just use 2 .030" limiter washers to keep stock up travel. This is for the Buggy though.
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Old 01-30-2012 | 11:39 AM
  #9469  
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Originally Posted by wcrase101
does anybody know how to get negative gain in the rear, I have tried all link locations and only get positive gain. any help would be awesome thanks
Short as possible. Inside should be closest to center of chassis. That hole should be right about or near where the A-arm mounts. Then out by the wheel it will be the one closest to the chassis.
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Old 01-30-2012 | 11:40 AM
  #9470  
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Originally Posted by Lake Ober
Hey guys,
I was searching around online and found what looks to be a nice aluminum steering servo saver set by Hot Racing http://www.toadzrc.com/aluminum-stee...c10-b4-t4.html

Has anyone tried this part by any chance? I'd be interested to give it a try... I've always thought the quality of HR stuff was pretty decent. Well, let me know what you guys think.
I just ordred one. I wanted to get did of the sloppy stock one.
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Old 01-30-2012 | 11:41 AM
  #9471  
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I have a question. Why is the FT transmission seem lowder than a RS,RTR. I'm one of 2 guys running the FT kit and they just don't seem to be as quiet as the RS or RTR kits. Is it the ball diff versus the gear diff? I know it's a dumb question but its been bugging me.
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Old 01-30-2012 | 11:53 AM
  #9472  
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Originally Posted by elex300
I have a question. Why is the FT transmission seem lowder than a RS,RTR. I'm one of 2 guys running the FT kit and they just don't seem to be as quiet as the RS or RTR kits. Is it the ball diff versus the gear diff? I know it's a dumb question but its been bugging me.
I have noticed some trucks are louder than others. I have a FT and its not loud at all. Not sure why some are so loud. Maybe diff slipping too much? Gear mesh?
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Old 01-30-2012 | 12:00 PM
  #9473  
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Originally Posted by J_Bone
I have noticed some trucks are louder than others. I have a FT and its not loud at all. Not sure why some are so loud. Maybe diff slipping too much? Gear mesh?
I don't think thats it. If I just turn my wheels forward by hand it's lowder than my buddies RS. I adjusted gear mesh and the change is minimal unless I jam it in to the spur.
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Old 01-30-2012 | 12:19 PM
  #9474  
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Originally Posted by Lake Ober
Hey guys,
I was searching around online and found what looks to be a nice aluminum steering servo saver set by Hot Racing http://www.toadzrc.com/aluminum-stee...c10-b4-t4.html

Has anyone tried this part by any chance? I'd be interested to give it a try... I've always thought the quality of HR stuff was pretty decent. Well, let me know what you guys think.
Ive been running the HOT Racing servo saver for about 3wks now and love it.... Steering is consistent all the time. Got it from toadzrc..
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Old 01-30-2012 | 01:07 PM
  #9475  
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KC Nitro.. maybe you could give me some input on this?

Originally Posted by AlanHall
Got to race my sc10 for the first time Saturday. Indoor clay track. Kinda bumpy. And would get a thin layer of light dust and get loose... ran blue fronts green rears with 32.5 f/r .. sooo hard to drive. Could anyone explain why when I put on silver and gold springs and stiffened it ,it got so much better? It didn't make sense to me. . but I tried it.possibly just my driving style? I grew up racing touring.. then recently raced 1/8th truggy. So im used to having a decent bit of traction. This 2wd stuff is crazy lol
i also want to add i went from SS rebars (sucked bad)... TO soft JC barcodes(got better) to barcodes front and some SS gridirons rear and got a good bit better.. stuck the rear a little better.
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Old 01-30-2012 | 01:22 PM
  #9476  
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Originally Posted by J_Bone
I just ordred one. I wanted to get did of the sloppy stock one.
Originally Posted by primo86gt
Ive been running the HOT Racing servo saver for about 3wks now and love it.... Steering is consistent all the time. Got it from toadzrc..
Thanks for letting me know guys! I think I will go ahead and order one tonight or tomorrow. I can't wait to get it and install it in my SC10!
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Old 01-30-2012 | 03:48 PM
  #9477  
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does anyone make a metal motor guard with plastic skids on the outside? Seems like that would be a great way to disperse some heat from the motor, but have a plastic skid plate to protect the metal.
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Old 01-30-2012 | 05:32 PM
  #9478  
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Originally Posted by AlanHall
KC Nitro.. maybe you could give me some input on this?

i also want to add i went from SS rebars (sucked bad)... TO soft JC barcodes(got better) to barcodes front and some SS gridirons rear and got a good bit better.. stuck the rear a little better.
About the springs- the change brought the 'spring frequency' up. The green/blue combination must have not kept those tires sticking to the clay. Does seem contrary to what 'text book' says. Most stuff says if you want more traction use a softer spring. Obviously there is a point where you can go to soft.

Funny combination on tires to me. We like a Bar Code style on short course at the indoor track here in KC. Most guys run Bar Codes all around. I usually go to Double Dee's in the front come main time. Why? Bar Codes give me to much steering. Double Dee's are more forgiving for me. Sometimes traction is so high I'll traction roll with Bar Codes on front.

I have never driven on a clay track. Sounds like you've experimented enough to know the right tire combination. Something else to factor in is the temperature of the track. I mostly race indoors in the winter months.
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Old 01-30-2012 | 06:50 PM
  #9479  
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Originally Posted by kc_nitro_rc
About the springs- the change brought the 'spring frequency' up. The green/blue combination must have not kept those tires sticking to the clay. Does seem contrary to what 'text book' says. Most stuff says if you want more traction use a softer spring. Obviously there is a point where you can go to soft.

Funny combination on tires to me. We like a Bar Code style on short course at the indoor track here in KC. Most guys run Bar Codes all around. I usually go to Double Dee's in the front come main time. Why? Bar Codes give me to much steering. Double Dee's are more forgiving for me. Sometimes traction is so high I'll traction roll with Bar Codes on front.
He
I have never driven on a clay track. Sounds like you've experimented enough to know the right tire combination. Something else to factor in is the temperature of the track. I mostly race indoors in the winter months.
Thanks. It wasa actually my first time ever running . I just tried different tires every round. We were indoors .. and ut was a little cooler out. I think alot maybe had to do with the bar codes being orange softs.instead of the ss green or new soft blue . Most have good luck with wishbones ..pressure points ..gridirons and subcultures. I think im going to get ss bar codes and double dee ..and maybe holeshots for next time.
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Old 01-30-2012 | 07:20 PM
  #9480  
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Originally Posted by kc_nitro_rc
About the springs- the change brought the 'spring frequency' up. The green/blue combination must have not kept those tires sticking to the clay. Does seem contrary to what 'text book' says. Most stuff says if you want more traction use a softer spring. Obviously there is a point where you can go to soft.

Funny combination on tires to me. We like a Bar Code style on short course at the indoor track here in KC. Most guys run Bar Codes all around. I usually go to Double Dee's in the front come main time. Why? Bar Codes give me to much steering. Double Dee's are more forgiving for me. Sometimes traction is so high I'll traction roll with Bar Codes on front.

I have never driven on a clay track. Sounds like you've experimented enough to know the right tire combination. Something else to factor in is the temperature of the track. I mostly race indoors in the winter months.
Yea green dot barcodes are the hot ticket in my area as well. Some will use double dee's if the hard pack has some dust on top.
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