the part # for the rebuild kit is 9829.. which you get the shims, o-rings and an extra set of sun gears.. hope this helps.

When wiring a ESC to a motor, do you always connect A to A, B to B, and C to C. The only reason I ask is I was wiring my Mamba SCT ESC to a Team Icon 17.5 motor and it got real hot just sitting on the workbench in approx 30 Sec. Now it has that awful burnt elec smell... I wired it A to A and so on. Thanks for any and all info.

Sensorless ESC + Sensored Motor maybe causing problems.

Both are sensored and the wire was plugged in...

All the shims now go on the inside of the diff. The kit comes with 4 shims. Shims go behind sun gear and are held in place with a pin. Associated sent me 4 additional shims along with the rebuild kit and told me to shim accordingly. I now have 3 shims behind both sun gears. I will take it to our local track and have some experts check it for tightness. Will try to report back but am now running a ball diff and the gear diff will be my backup.

I could really use your help. Last night I had my first indoor short course race. The race was run on new carpet with jumps. Does anyone have a set up that might work well for this?

Also, I have the FT ball diff and I think it needs to be rebuilt but I'm not sure how tight it needs to be. Some recommended replacing it with a gear diff but I've heard that the AE gear diffs aren't that reliable. What do you guys think? Do I rebuild the ball diff or switch to a gear diff?

Hmmm. That sucks. The only other thing I can think of is if one of your motor terminals got soldered to the motor can. Prob not it though. Good luck

A pro driver told me the ball diff out performs a gear diff for a better driver. Probably a matter of preference for most drivers. I still find it hard to tell a difference. I would probably have to do an immediate comparison at the track to tell a difference. That being said, you do not want your ball diff too loose since it will damage the diff (per a knowledgable driver at our track). After rebuild, tighten firmly then back off 1/8th of a turn. Break it in then recheck. There are youtubes on break in process. If you do not have a gear diff, I would probably stick with the ball diff. Good luck.

I just picked up a new SC10-RS to replace my Slash and have a couple questions. There seems to be a lot of play in the steering and in the rear wheels. The rear wheels will wooble from toe-in to toe-out about 3-4 degrees. The front has about 1/4" play back and forth in the steering. I only have my Slash to compare it to but it has significantly less play in these areas. The RS was an RTR but nothing seems loose. Is this common for this truck and what are the best options to tighten it up? Thanks.

Its pretty common, although I still ran through all the screws and nuts first thing to ensure everything was tight. There were a couple loose screws and nuts out of the box. I also had to re-shim the sun gears in the diff after 10 minutes of driving. But other than that, mine is still box stock.

anybody running a 7.5 motor? curious what gearing you are using? maifield shows 18/87 with a 7.5. im gonna try that and see how it temps.

Ah, the last kit I got had 2 13.5mm shims and 2 8mm shims...the smaller shims are for between the outdrive and the diff housing....the 13.5mm shims are for behind the sun gear. Or are the new kits coming with more 13.5mm shims?

I just solved my problem by picking up a set of Xray 5x15x0.3mm shims...they fit, and are thick enough and large enough to help eliminate outdrive wobble, AND they seem to help seal the diff even better...no more leaky diff! And it's one solid shim instead of two or three thin shims...

anyone run 2 stage pistons in their shocks?

On my 4x4. Not on the 2wd yet. Plan to though

how much a difference did you feel? are u running lighter weight oil? I have yet to put mine in. my truck is handling decent now (4x4) can't imagine how these will make it feel.

I'm sure they'll make a huge difference on my ft sc10.