SC10 Thread
#8912
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 134
Do any of you guys know if the XP SC200 esp that comes with the rtr would be ok to run on ice? We have 3" of ice everywhere and no puddles so was just curious if I could run my truck out on it or if the tiny bit of moisture would kill the servo or esp.
#8914
associated's site won't load and I absolutely cannot find my manual what is the part number for them lil screws that hold the hinge pins in and hub pins. looked on a-main and still can't figure it out for sure.
#8915
when we used to run on carpet the hot setup was sc10 up front and blitz tires in the back, make sure the blitz tires are d compound, do not use the s compound for some reason those sucked really bad on carpet.
#8917
Where are your front camber links mounted on the inside (shock tower) and outside (near the wheel)? How many washers are you using on the inside?
Same for the rear- where are your camber links located? How many washers are you using?
What is your anti-squat? You probably don't have any or very little. Try setting it to 2.
My truck started doing the same thing after I changed my camber links. (made them longer). I'm going to play with them a little bit.
#8921
You need the following ae parts:
91051-ball cups
91048-ball studs (bk uses the ti nitride ones)
91038- hd turnbuckles 65mm (there is also an ft titanium option like bk is running)
The ball stud is 3mm thread and taller than the std ones, so you need to take into account that when adding / subtracting washers from the inner ball stud.
91051-ball cups
91048-ball studs (bk uses the ti nitride ones)
91038- hd turnbuckles 65mm (there is also an ft titanium option like bk is running)
The ball stud is 3mm thread and taller than the std ones, so you need to take into account that when adding / subtracting washers from the inner ball stud.

It seems like I post this picture every couple of days.
This camber link upgrade is just a durablity upgrade, tie rod / captured rod ends from SC10 4x4 are so robust I doubt you'll ever break them.
In the front, a lot of guys have started using the Losi plastic.
#8922
Rear or front? If it's rear, that's easy.

It seems like I post this picture every couple of days.
This camber link upgrade is just a durablity upgrade, tie rod / captured rod ends from SC10 4x4 are so robust I doubt you'll ever break them.
In the front, a lot of guys have started using the Losi plastic.

It seems like I post this picture every couple of days.
This camber link upgrade is just a durablity upgrade, tie rod / captured rod ends from SC10 4x4 are so robust I doubt you'll ever break them.
In the front, a lot of guys have started using the Losi plastic.
#8923
I put my ESC in that location, I think it centers the weight more, it protects the esc more from impact and debris, etc... You can still add weight in the battery compartment. I have 1 OZ of lead behind the esc... Also the Viper VTX10 and VTX1 ESC's that I use fit in the compartment with the FT carbon battery strap... I added 1/2 oz to the opposite side of my airtronics reciever, It is pretty even in weight from left to right...
#8924
Can you still get enough weight to the rear to keep it planted?
Won't that take away from being able to move your battery forward or back or is that the best place for it? Sorry for all the questions but this is my first 2wheel SC.
Here's another picture of it:
#8925
There is a tall tower, a medium tower, and a short tower, right? All of them give the car a different roll center. Lowering the tower lowers the roll center, raising it raises it. The opposite thing happens in the inside camber link stud, adding shims lowers the roll center, taking them away raises it.
Raising the roll center makes the chassis roll in the corner a little easier, lowering it keeps the chassis flatter. You can read up on it a little more here:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Roll_center
But to answer your original question, the factory guys always run the shortest tower, and if they don't, they cite it on the setup sheets. The only time I ever saw a taller one cited was on a 4wd.
Raising the roll center makes the chassis roll in the corner a little easier, lowering it keeps the chassis flatter. You can read up on it a little more here:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Roll_center
But to answer your original question, the factory guys always run the shortest tower, and if they don't, they cite it on the setup sheets. The only time I ever saw a taller one cited was on a 4wd.





ok my camber links keep popping off.. I am running rpm cups too. I replaced them with brand new ones and same problem.