SC10 Thread
01-09-2012 | 10:09 PM
#8926
There is a tall tower, a medium tower, and a short tower, right? All of them give the car a different roll center. Lowering the tower lowers the roll center, raising it raises it. The opposite thing happens in the inside camber link stud, adding shims lowers the roll center, taking them away raises it.
Raising the roll center makes the chassis roll in the corner a little easier, lowering it keeps the chassis flatter. You can read up on it a little more here:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Roll_center
But to answer your original question, the factory guys always run the shortest tower, and if they don't, they cite it on the setup sheets. The only time I ever saw a taller one cited was on a 4wd.
Raising the roll center makes the chassis roll in the corner a little easier, lowering it keeps the chassis flatter. You can read up on it a little more here:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Roll_center
But to answer your original question, the factory guys always run the shortest tower, and if they don't, they cite it on the setup sheets. The only time I ever saw a taller one cited was on a 4wd.
thanks for the info. that cleared up a few things. but I wasn't the one asking the question.. well that I remember. lol
01-09-2012 | 10:36 PM
#8927
Tech Regular
iTrader: (8)
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 366
So I have a question, how do I make this thing turn even sharper in the turns?
It seems maybe I just have to slow down more but I see other guys blazing through turns at my local track faster than me with no problems.
Can some people give me some tips? Should I set the suspension nosed over? I was going to add some weight to the front hoping that would help... I have good tires on the car, setup the suspension with 35/30 weight oil and blue rear/grey front springs. Overall it DOES turn well but I feel that there is something I'm missing...
Any ideas? If you need some more input from my end just ask.
It seems maybe I just have to slow down more but I see other guys blazing through turns at my local track faster than me with no problems.
Can some people give me some tips? Should I set the suspension nosed over? I was going to add some weight to the front hoping that would help... I have good tires on the car, setup the suspension with 35/30 weight oil and blue rear/grey front springs. Overall it DOES turn well but I feel that there is something I'm missing...
Any ideas? If you need some more input from my end just ask.
01-10-2012 | 12:18 AM
#8928
So I have a question, how do I make this thing turn even sharper in the turns?
It seems maybe I just have to slow down more but I see other guys blazing through turns at my local track faster than me with no problems.
Can some people give me some tips? Should I set the suspension nosed over? I was going to add some weight to the front hoping that would help... I have good tires on the car, setup the suspension with 35/30 weight oil and blue rear/grey front springs. Overall it DOES turn well but I feel that there is something I'm missing...
Any ideas? If you need some more input from my end just ask.
It seems maybe I just have to slow down more but I see other guys blazing through turns at my local track faster than me with no problems.
Can some people give me some tips? Should I set the suspension nosed over? I was going to add some weight to the front hoping that would help... I have good tires on the car, setup the suspension with 35/30 weight oil and blue rear/grey front springs. Overall it DOES turn well but I feel that there is something I'm missing...
Any ideas? If you need some more input from my end just ask.
01-10-2012 | 06:16 AM
#8929
Tech Adept
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 247
From: Kansas City Mo
So I have a question, how do I make this thing turn even sharper in the turns?
It seems maybe I just have to slow down more but I see other guys blazing through turns at my local track faster than me with no problems.
Can some people give me some tips? Should I set the suspension nosed over? I was going to add some weight to the front hoping that would help... I have good tires on the car, setup the suspension with 35/30 weight oil and blue rear/grey front springs. Overall it DOES turn well but I feel that there is something I'm missing...
Any ideas? If you need some more input from my end just ask.
It seems maybe I just have to slow down more but I see other guys blazing through turns at my local track faster than me with no problems.
Can some people give me some tips? Should I set the suspension nosed over? I was going to add some weight to the front hoping that would help... I have good tires on the car, setup the suspension with 35/30 weight oil and blue rear/grey front springs. Overall it DOES turn well but I feel that there is something I'm missing...
Any ideas? If you need some more input from my end just ask.
01-10-2012 | 08:43 AM
#8931
About 15 years ago I was at a track watching and a friend of mine gave me his transmitter and asked me to take a couple of laps. I got about two turns into it and exclaimed "OMG this thing pushes bad!" and he snatched the transmitter back with a "OK THANKS!" I asked him what the heck that was for, and he said he wasn't sure it pushed, but knew I'd go drive the car hard.
01-10-2012 | 02:45 PM
#8934
Rear Axles are a big deal in regards to rear traction, mainly how they bind or cause friction in thier joints.
More bind more traction (sometimes worse in the bumps however)
Rear axle angles, axle plunge in the outdrives, wear, style of axle (CVD,Universals, dogbones) bind differently. Worn out outdrives will bind more, however replace outdrives asap if they get a groove where the pin makes contact. Axle pin size plays a part too (smaller axle pin is more bind, faster wear)
Axles that sweep forward will have more bind than if the axle were to be inline with the out drives. Alot of cars now are desighned with axles that sweep forward.
Axle plunge in the outdrive (the movement of the ball and pin in the outdrive). Moving the rear hub up and down with the two hingepin holes changes axle plunge (generally the higher the axle is on the outside of the car will have less plunge). Rear roll center, camber link positions, diff hight all play a part. When I raced a lot of 1/10 gas truck we would raise the whole diff case off the chassis 1-2mm to get more plunge for more forward traction.
You dont want to bind the rear too much, you'll loose rotation in the corners and handling in some bumps, the rear will squat less on throttle and feel stiffer around the track.
More bind more traction (sometimes worse in the bumps however)
Rear axle angles, axle plunge in the outdrives, wear, style of axle (CVD,Universals, dogbones) bind differently. Worn out outdrives will bind more, however replace outdrives asap if they get a groove where the pin makes contact. Axle pin size plays a part too (smaller axle pin is more bind, faster wear)
Axles that sweep forward will have more bind than if the axle were to be inline with the out drives. Alot of cars now are desighned with axles that sweep forward.
Axle plunge in the outdrive (the movement of the ball and pin in the outdrive). Moving the rear hub up and down with the two hingepin holes changes axle plunge (generally the higher the axle is on the outside of the car will have less plunge). Rear roll center, camber link positions, diff hight all play a part. When I raced a lot of 1/10 gas truck we would raise the whole diff case off the chassis 1-2mm to get more plunge for more forward traction.
You dont want to bind the rear too much, you'll loose rotation in the corners and handling in some bumps, the rear will squat less on throttle and feel stiffer around the track.
01-10-2012 | 07:15 PM
#8935
Tech Regular
iTrader: (8)
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 366
I bought some weight to add to the front end this week but havent tried it yet. Sound like a good idea?
01-10-2012 | 07:18 PM
#8936
Tech Regular
iTrader: (8)
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 366
I find that if I apply more drag brake I definitely turn in better but then the rear gets slippery from the tires locking up since I'm braking through the turns.
Not to toot my own horn but I dont think its driver, I really dont. I just cant get the truck to turn as fast. Maybe rip out the servo saver and put in aluminum bellcrank setup would help?
01-10-2012 | 08:05 PM
#8938
It is possible the adjusting screw on your servo saver has backed off, or the threads are stripped and it has no adjustment other than full loose. Something to check.
01-11-2012 | 08:33 AM
#8939
Tech Master
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,286
Where should I start spring wise on a Med to Low traction track? With a light dust on top if you get out of the groove? Is the stock springs to stiff?
01-11-2012 | 08:45 AM
#8940
yea running the popular tires everyone at the track is.
I find that if I apply more drag brake I definitely turn in better but then the rear gets slippery from the tires locking up since I'm braking through the turns.
Not to toot my own horn but I dont think its driver, I really dont. I just cant get the truck to turn as fast. Maybe rip out the servo saver and put in aluminum bellcrank setup would help?
I find that if I apply more drag brake I definitely turn in better but then the rear gets slippery from the tires locking up since I'm braking through the turns.
Not to toot my own horn but I dont think its driver, I really dont. I just cant get the truck to turn as fast. Maybe rip out the servo saver and put in aluminum bellcrank setup would help?