Your best option is to get the Aluminum bulkhead PN ASC7990 and not worry about screwing into plastic

Front hex part numbers
9880
9881
9883
4449

Rear factory plastic hexs come in the 9883 package
I went with the Jconcpet alum. rear 12mm hex. I like them better

Proline makes a front conversion package. I hear good and bad things about it. I like to keep it factory and would go with the AE part numbers. They are pretty much the stuff from a SC10RS

Is there a point in switching to Hex's vs just keeping it the way it is? Trying to decide if I need to do this or not.

For the rears some feel you have less likely chance of spinning the pin area or lining up the pin wrong. in general its easier to get it "right" when putting on the rear wheels.

For the front, you get the benefit of being able to use front or rear wheels all around. You don't need a specific "front" wheel or a specific "rear" wheel.

For those still going with the older setup, a benefit is the part is cheaper. :lol:



Hey, I posted this on another thread but figured I would ask here.

For the gear diff, is AE sending out shims to be put behind the smaller gears (planetary?) to get rid of that clicking issue? I heard of that, and when I checked the gear diff I have it doesn't have those shims behind the smaller gears.

Second, what is the part number for those shims and there sizes?

I will probably just stick with what came with the kit for now. I have been racing one one set of tires with my modified slash so I think it will work. I race but am not the most serious racer :)

There is a point to some.
My RS came with HEX so when I get my FT kit. I will upgrade the front to hex so I can use the same wheels for both trucks. 99% of the people at the track I race at use hex. Some let me use a tire to test and see if it fits my driving style. that is also a plus for me to run front and rear hex.

My brand new Gear diff came with. 4 large shims, two go behind each large gear.and 4 small shims, 1 behind each small gear. my new gear diff does not click at all.

thanks for the info

So does anyone know the exact dimensions for shims?

I just bought my FT kit the other day, and I plan to install hex hubs on it right away. I have always liked hex's, so I am going to stick with them. They typically are less likely to strip out, and hex wheels seem to be more available in my area. I am planning to go with the Proline kit, that way I don't have to buy a bunch of different parts individually. Here is a link to the article on the teamsc10 site that explains what you need to do the conversion and the pros of doing it. http://www.teamsc10.com/post/sc10-ho...slash-adapters

Just by the RS parts, nobody seems to like the amount of slop the Proline kit has in the front.

1000% agree

well my sc10 handles fine but i need to practice, i am doing well with my buggies but i cant seem to drive this as fast:weird:

who knows, maybe ill go down with just the truck. :nod:

Has anyone had issues with the RS sc10 steering bellcranks? What did you do buy the STRC upgrade aluminum parts?

Ok, I will just get the RS kit then, I didn't know there were issues with the slop on the Proline. I was just thinking about those because it comes with everything needed in the kit. I'm sorry to sound like such a newb, but if you could help me with this, I'd really appreciate it. I looked at the parts you listed on a previous post, they were:

" Rear 12mm Hex - Jconcept #2081
Front part #'s I am using Factory RS parts. I like keeping things factory if I can
Steering block - #9880
axle - # 9881
Ball stud is long silver #6277
Locking nut for ball stud # 4449
12mm Hex #9883
The bearing # is 3977. You can use the ones in the rims. Same bearing, to save a few bucks "

Now, I understand for the most part what all of these pieces are, but I am not really familiar with the SC10 (like tearing it apart). So, I don't know if I need just some of these parts listed or all of them? And also, do I just need one order of each item #? Like for instance, I saw that the bearings (3977) come in 2's, so do I need to get 2 orders of them (1 bearing for each hub on the truck)?

So, if you don't mind (I'm sooo sorry to keep bugging you) could you tell me what part numbers I need to add to my cart and how many orders of each item # I need, that would be awesome! Thanks in advance

PS. Funny enough I actually know a good bit about tearing my nitro trucks and my Erevo 1/16 apart, I've just never really did much with tearing the hubs apart, and have no idea what the SC10's are like :)

9880 will be both blocks
9881 will be both axles
4449 is like 4 or 6 nuts. only need two. You use them to screw the ball studs onto the steering block.
You can use the ones off the truck you have now. they should be long enough
3977 bearings, You can use the ones you have in the rims. Same bearings. Or you can replace them. If you replace them , yes you need 2 sets 4 total bearings.

All of it is held in by a very small .050" headed screw and a pin. slid pin out out hubs together slid pin back in. done

so if you want all new parts
9880 = 1
9881 = 1
4449 = 1
2081 = 1
9883 = 1
3997 = 2
6277 = 1

That's all the parts New. You can remove 2081 if you just want to use the hex from the 9883 kit. Saves you 10 bucks, but the 2081 are much better. imo

I've broken one in both my SC10 and B4 and replaced them both with STRC units. The only drawback with the STRC stuff is it still uses the same servo saver design that you either have to glue or possibly pin.