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I don't use the setscrews. Makes for a smoother cva when the pins aren't under any sort of bending pressure. I just put a tiny dot of thick CA on the retaining ring so that it won't rotate and let a pin fly. The center-rear bone in my B44 let the pin come out once and it ended up shredding the case on one of the lipos.
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Originally Posted by primo86gt
(Post 8628116)
If your overfilling them thell leak everytime. If you push the shaft in and its pushing back out, its overfull.. (cap tight and no spring)
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ThunderbirdJunkie has never built shocks with rebound. positive pressure only blows off caps or blows out o rings.
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Originally Posted by HB Willy
(Post 8639866)
I may be ignorant but this is the first I've heard of this. I was under the train of thought that there should always be a bit of rebound when building shocks. Unless I'm totally mistaken, is everyone building these with some rebound or without??:confused:
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Originally Posted by HB Willy
(Post 8639866)
I may be ignorant but this is the first I've heard of this. I was under the train of thought that there should always be a bit of rebound when building shocks. Unless I'm totally mistaken, is everyone building these with some rebound or without??:confused:
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Having run AE for many years; unless something weird has changed, you always want a little rebound or "kick" as they used to call it.
They even used to illustrate it in most of the manuals. For a normal AE 1/10 shock, about 1/4 the total rebound of the shock is a general rule that works. I don't see anything about the V2's that is going to make me run them any differently. They just made it easier with the bleed screw on the cap instead of having to fight the tight-threading of the plastic shock caps. Now, having a shock that is hydrolocked and can't compress fully will cause blown caps and seals. However, just a touch of rebound is just right ;) The shock shouldn't "fight" you on compression, but should rebound on it's own. If you have to force the shaft up and it shoots right back out quickly, then you've got too much fluid in it. A 'dead' shock will compress easily and simply make a little squish sound at the top and not rebound at all. |
If the shock type has a bladder in it then rebound is acceptable but, if you are gonna rely on the rebound you best try and get em all exactly the same or you get funky results on 4 corners of your ride..
Many of us (Losi shock users :sneaky:) hate rebound and feel that a spring is for rebound and the fluid is for dampening only. Build em to have no air in em, work the piston and where you leave it, in, out or halfway, that is where the shaft wiill stay. Keep bleeding the shock til they act this way and all 4 will be the same. |
I agree, having them equal is a must.
However, on any shock that does *not* have a bladder; there will always be air in the shock. You're just trying to bleed them to have equal amounts. The old bottom-loading cartridge Losi shocks were the same way. For some reason they were a touch easier to bleed, but same principle as the AE. No bladder... |
Originally Posted by mblgjr
(Post 8640166)
Having run AE for many years; unless something weird has changed, you always want a little rebound or "kick" as they used to call it.
They even used to illustrate it in most of the manuals. For a normal AE 1/10 shock, about 1/4 the total rebound of the shock is a general rule that works. I don't see anything about the V2's that is going to make me run them any differently. They just made it easier with the bleed screw on the cap instead of having to fight the tight-threading of the plastic shock caps. Now, having a shock that is hydrolocked and can't compress fully will cause blown caps and seals. However, just a touch of rebound is just right ;) The shock shouldn't "fight" you on compression, but should rebound on it's own. If you have to force the shaft up and it shoots right back out quickly, then you've got too much fluid in it. A 'dead' shock will compress easily and simply make a little squish sound at the top and not rebound at all. |
Wow, I just got my FTSC10 rolling, this thing drives so much better than my other SC10. For a little 17.5 motor it gets up and scoots. Now to add a little boost. :cool:
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Originally Posted by H.N.
(Post 8632106)
Anyone here use the HB Beams pink? If so what insert did you use? This is for a clay track that has good grip but sometimes the rearend gets loose. So I'm thinking of a softer insert, but which one? TIA
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shocks
After I get all the air bubbles out, I push the shaft in until a 1/4 shaft shows(rod end on ) i and put the cap on (dont tighten) push shaft in and blead excess oil out and tighten, if u have the bleader caps its even easier, fill shock put the cap on & push the shaft up and put the screw in it. I've broke and bent shocks, but I never blew any Ive built..
Here is a link to a t4 manual on Associated's site ( maybe their wrong) http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/ca...1ft_manual.pdf |
What would the difference be in a truck with all 4 shocks having 1/4" rebound vs the same truck with 0 rebound handling wise?
Would the truck with 1/4" of rebound in effect be the same as using a slightly heavier shock oil with no rebound on all 4? |
I usually add rebound with layouts that have bigger jumps....
good for landing smooth |
Originally Posted by HB Willy
(Post 8643383)
What would the difference be in a truck with all 4 shocks having 1/4" rebound vs the same truck with 0 rebound handling wise?
Would the truck with 1/4" of rebound in effect be the same as using a slightly heavier shock oil with no rebound on all 4? Probably not even noticeable but then again? :confused: |
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