Goin' to Tri State?
PM what time you're planning on being there...would like to come by and drive the truck on the track finally.

I think you will want the toe in hubs. What kind of track surface are you racing on? Also what type of Calibers do you have M3 or M4?

I have 1.5* hubs with caliber M4 on Stock AE wheels and this works great for rear traction. I have 30* C-Hubs which helps to settle down the steering. I have my battery very close to stock rear position using the FT battery hold down and I have ton's of traction and steering. I have the grey rear spring and silver front right now, 35wt oil in front and 30wt rear. What do you have for rear camber link position? I have had great results with the longest possible rear camber link. Again power on traction is improved with this cause the contact of the tire to the ground is retained. Also make sure your front shock oil is heavier than the rear shock oil. This allows some rotation under accelerations which adds weight to the rear tires.

Granted I am running a stock motor 17.5t brushless so power is limited.

Love this truck!!!

Mprobably not this weekend. Going to Wilmington tonight and Steve King's place in new Vienna on Sunday. Going to spend some time with the wife on Saturday unless she drives me nuts then I may go over to Tri-State.

I'm running the M3s and the track surface is usually packed dirt with some loose and dusty stuff on top.

I've got the longest rear camber link as well, plus I even added two washers under each of the inside camber ball studs. I think I do need to replace the stock 30wt all around oil with 35wt or 40wt up front but I want to see how the newest adjustments work out first.

Always good to take baby steps so you can see what effect your changes make.

I only have one spacer under the inside ball stud.

Any way to make the rearend With 1.5 or 2.0 toe in.

im sure there is a way but man thats alot of toe!!!

i dont even like the 1 degree hubs!! lol

Okay less that 1 degree rear toe. I don't need the amount that comes stock.It's too much. This truck will never see the dirt-just pavement.

There are a number of ways now to increase rear toe. The new FT toe plates are one way. Then you have the new FT Rear hubs in various increments of toe. Then the aftermarket parts from STRC, Racer's Edge and others.

I have 1.5* STRC hubs in my SC10 and love the traction they provide. I would like to get the new FT B44 hubs cause they have larger bearings and are FT Blue. On anything but sticky clay, carpet, or asphalt you will want more toe.

Just got to RC10.com and click on the parts/factory team/SC10 and you will see some of these AE parts.

Hope this helps.

my motor and esc came so i put them in my sc10 last night , running a ezrun 8.5t on 3s . only took it out for five min's to make sure the gearing was right but i have to say the thing just hammers, so fast. that was the first time i had drivin my sc10 , the new chassis was good did a few small jumps every thing held up great just waiting for my new wheels and grp rubber to get here .

Folks, I wanted to know what best mod for rear wheel pins? Reason, I have gone through 4 stock black /grey both and stripped them. I wanted to know if there is a hub mod to use slash stlye or whats best that works. Thank you PM me since I want to buy parts tomorrow. TY

Heres my new setup based off of chad due/scott brown

Front:
Red Springs 1 working coil cut off
30wt oil, 3 limiters, Inside hole on arms, middle hold in tower, arms level, 30* castor blocks, outside ball stud pos in tower, Middle in blocks. 1 Spacer under ball studs. Jc subcultures.

Rear: Black Springs, 1 limiter, inside hole in arms, middle in tower for shocks, inside ball stud pos in tower, Middle in hubs, Short Wheelbase, 1 Spacer under ball stud.

cvds, Ball diff, And jc subcultures all the way around.

What oil in the rear shocks? Stock pistons front and rear?

27.5 in rear and 1's in front and 2's in rear.

You can use slash aluminum hexes with no mods just makes it a few mm wider.