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Old 05-06-2010 | 07:01 PM
  #4276  
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Default losie strike

Hi just got back into rc ,got a strike losie first thing i did replace moter with venom brushless 13 turn 35a with esc pack , $ 150. Then 2 nimh 8.4 venom battery$ 60 each it goes quite well for under $ 500 ready to run. Raced a $ 2400 car and won 2-3 times , just goes to show power dosent win races.But its more fun .
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Old 05-06-2010 | 07:05 PM
  #4277  
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Originally Posted by bradley henry
Hi just got back into rc ,got a strike losie first thing i did replace moter with venom brushless 13 turn 35a with esc pack , $ 150. Then 2 nimh 8.4 venom battery$ 60 each it goes quite well for under $ 500 ready to run. Raced a $ 2400 car and won 2-3 times , just goes to show power dosent win races.But its more fun .
there is an entire thread for the losi strike.
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Old 05-17-2010 | 06:52 AM
  #4278  
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Originally Posted by jdearhart
i did this but both front and rear shocks dont fully compress each one has about 2 mm that wont go into the shock body like shafts too long please advise what i did wrong or thats normal for those thnx Will G

Last edited by will g; 05-18-2010 at 10:19 AM.
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Old 05-17-2010 | 10:00 AM
  #4279  
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I really got my SC10 dialed in this weekend. It was horrible before, I just could not keep the back end from going bananas. I'm sure I can get it dialed in even better but here is what I did:

Replaced rear tires with Pro-Line Caliber's

removed the spacers from the front springs

Flipped the battery strap upside down and slid the battery all the way back against the shock tower. Going to get the factory-team battery strap here soon.

The tires alone made a lot of improvement but it was still squirrely. The combination of the tires and the battery movement was pure love juice.

Last night after a tear-down for cleaning. I put 30 degree blocks on the front and I think I'm going to replace the springs with the factory team setup of red in front and grey in the rear.

Some guys are putting an additional 3 degrees of toe on the rear but I'm going to hold off on that until I see how the 30 degree bocks do then see how the springs do.
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Old 05-17-2010 | 10:23 AM
  #4280  
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Originally Posted by Driver86
I really got my SC10 dialed in this weekend. It was horrible before, I just could not keep the back end from going bananas. I'm sure I can get it dialed in even better but here is what I did:

Replaced rear tires with Pro-Line Caliber's

removed the spacers from the front springs

Flipped the battery strap upside down and slid the battery all the way back against the shock tower. Going to get the factory-team battery strap here soon.

The tires alone made a lot of improvement but it was still squirrely. The combination of the tires and the battery movement was pure love juice.

Last night after a tear-down for cleaning. I put 30 degree blocks on the front and I think I'm going to replace the springs with the factory team setup of red in front and grey in the rear.

Some guys are putting an additional 3 degrees of toe on the rear but I'm going to hold off on that until I see how the 30 degree bocks do then see how the springs do.
what shock oils in front and rear?
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Old 05-17-2010 | 10:45 AM
  #4281  
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Originally Posted by will g
what shock oils in front and rear?
It's the RTR stock oil, I believe it's 30wt. I'm considering getting the VM2 factory team shocks next month.

I'm loving this truck. I've only raced against Blitzes and Slashes but stock setup, the SC10 just owns them but you REALLY have to set up the SC10, right out of the box it blows on dirt but is great on pavement or carpet.
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Old 05-17-2010 | 11:13 AM
  #4282  
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I just wanted to add a little color to this thread.
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Old 05-18-2010 | 10:19 AM
  #4283  
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Originally Posted by will g
i did this but both front and rear shocks dont fully compress each one has about 2 mm that wont go into the shock body like shafts too long please advise what i did wrong or thats normal for those thnx Will G

anyone ??
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Old 05-18-2010 | 10:53 AM
  #4284  
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Originally Posted by will g
anyone ??
check if you put too much oil in. also check and make sure all the parts of the shock are together. i had a piston come off one time and stopped it from compressing.
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Old 05-18-2010 | 11:04 AM
  #4285  
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Originally Posted by Sage
check if you put too much oil in. also check and make sure all the parts of the shock are together. i had a piston come off one time and stopped it from compressing.
+1, sounds overfilled to me too.
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Old 05-18-2010 | 11:10 AM
  #4286  
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Originally Posted by will g
anyone ??
It's because you put a bladder in a shock that wasn't designed for it. The piston is actually hitting it at full travel. You'll need to put a limiter on the outside of the shock to keep this from happening and just deal with the loss of some travel.

Curtis
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Old 05-18-2010 | 11:17 AM
  #4287  
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Originally Posted by cmenard
It's because you put a bladder in a shock that wasn't designed for it. The piston is actually hitting it at full travel. You'll need to put a limiter on the outside of the shock to keep this from happening and just deal with the loss of some travel.

Curtis
that was what i thought ok thnx everyone
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Old 05-21-2010 | 10:16 AM
  #4288  
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Hey guys I'm running a Ballistic 8.5 in my SC10 with an 87T spur. Novak recommends a 10.5 FDR with an 8.5 motor which comes out to about a 22T pinion which I don't believe will fit. Whats everyone else running with this motor.
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Old 05-21-2010 | 12:11 PM
  #4289  
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I dont have a 8.5 BUT I've ran a 19 /87 on mine before... you have to dremel the motor plate screw slots to make it work. I've got my motor touching the tranny case running a 75/22
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Old 05-21-2010 | 02:20 PM
  #4290  
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what are u guys running for diff oil? I used 7,000 indoor on carpet and now for the summer it will be on a huge loose track.
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