.

'cuda was thinkin that Tbirddude's approach to posting on rctech is quite original.

Anything on the front or sides? I want to help its' aerial aerodynamics but also don't want to weaken the body strength too much

Just an FYI, this holds true for AKA tires as well.

PRO-LINE WE NEED A 1 PIECE WHEEL FOR THE SC10

:EDIT:
Little bit o' force goes a long way

Originally Posted by Mr.Maim
Just so you know, if you buy ProLine beadlock wheels you have to use ProLine tires... well, at the very least you cannot use JConcepts tires on ProLine beadlock wheels unless you cut out all the sidewall strengthening ribs from the inside of the JConcepts tires. I was going to go the beadlock route too, but cannot because of my tire choice. I brought a set of tires to my LHS and tried to fit them on the ProLine beadlocks prior to purhcase. No fit. No purchase.

Has anyone had results different than mine?

It'd be nice if each manufacturer made a beadlock wheel for their tires, or someone made a universal for all tires. One that would only need to grab the bead itself and not so much of the inner carcas of the tire. I suppose the big issue is that the SC tires are 2.2" on the outside and 3.0 on the inside making standard beadlock wheel designs impossible.

So, I've been getting a little tired of what I percieve to be stock diff issues with the SC10's gear diff (poor performance on varying surfaces, inability to hook up on loose track, inconsistent jumping when launching at imperfect angles, squirrely under hard acceleration (running 10.5 brushless) etc.) so I rummaged through my T4 stuff, and found my unbuilt backup T4 kit. Built the transmission with the ball diff. I know I'm a little late to the game considering that it's stock on the FT-SC10... will this be a big improvement over the stock diff?

Nope leave the front and sides alone. Opening the side windows just lets more air under the body and makes the truck handle worse.

If your worried about strength, just do the two triangles in the bed and the circle fan holes.

Use a dremel to keep the edges of the triangle round. Dont actaully go all the way to the edges of the triangle. Big round corners are good, sharp corners will just crack.

Mine is squirrley too. I want to know what causes this. I've just learned to be fluid with the throttle.

I want to try some lighter diff fluid and see what happens. Is that the right direction to go, or should I go heavier.

ben

I have only used the ball diff and love the traction and cornering control it seems to provide. I recommend using your ball diff. I started with a T4 FT and converted.

Good to know. I used to run T4 and kept wondering why the SC10 was such a challenge to drive compared to the T4... considering that the SC10 is the T4's progeny, I was wondering what the deal was.

Luckily when I buy an RC, I buy two: one to drive and a second for parts. I just took my FT-T4 spare truck and built the transmission.

Oh, speaking of the transmission...

I was also looking at the parts list for the FT-SC10. The slipper plates and spring are different than the stock T4 and SC10. Does anybody have an opinion on their usefulness? Are they easier to find the "sweet spot" as advertised? I'd like to know from someone who has driven both the RTR and FT SC10s.

AKAs are on the beadlocks now.
Would wager that you could do the same for the JConcepts

Zerodefect asks how T-birdjunkie likes those AKA Wishbones?

Deos T-birdjunkie use those outdoors as well as indoors, or only indoors?

Zerodefect likes his Enduros, wish he could get SCT Gridirons.

Nice job!

How did you get them to work?

They're brand new, just mounted them on the rims. Haven't run it yet on those tires. For bashing, ThunderbirdJunkie runs the PL Switches. Also have a set of Enduros that are getting glued to stock SC10 wheels.
He hasn't had this thing on the track yet, but maybe tomorrow it will be the next stop after going to the DMV to get plates for the beater Toyota.
Never underestimate the usefulness of force and applying more torque to the hex driver