For my next upgrade I am looking at the MIP C-CVD kit.

Any Feedback on this kit?

Thanks!

I beleive this is the one in the FT kit. I have them and they have been flawless in the Stock SCT class. I'm running 17.5 so not so much power but not issues. Make sure you get the new ones with the clip retainer. The older ones would loosen up and the pin would slip out and tear up your a-arms.

ThunderbirdJunkie is running old-style T4 CVDs.
As every other old set of MIP CVDs he has run, they've been awesome.

Dude, why do you keep referring to yourself in the third person? It's cracking me up.

Just so you know, if you buy ProLine beadlock wheels you have to use ProLine tires... well, at the very least you cannot use JConcepts tires on ProLine beadlock wheels unless you cut out all the sidewall strengthening ribs from the inside of the JConcepts tires. I was going to go the beadlock route too, but cannot because of my tire choice. I brought a set of tires to my LHS and tried to fit them on the ProLine beadlocks prior to purhcase. No fit. No purchase.

Has anyone had results different than mine?

buy the kit for the T4 that is does not have the C before the CVD like this. "C-CVD" http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...C-CVD-Kit-SC10

Reason:
they use a retainer ring to capture the pin that holds the pivot assembly together. and are VERY easy to break or strip. A fix for those that already have this type of CVD, take some heat shrink and replace the redor white retainer for heatshrink or if you still have the retainer use the shrink tube on top to hold it in place.

Otherwise just save yourself the hassle and DO NOT buy them to begin with.


go for the regular CVD kit as shown here.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...omplete-Set-T4


But as far as the upgrade to CVD's is concerned......WORTH THE MONEY!! i wouldnt run anything less!!!

all you need to do is use red thread lock on the set screw and it will NEVER come out.....much better than those dumb rings.

Good tip! Thanks! (even though I wasn't the one that asked)

Yikes! Red thread lock? You're right about it NEVER coming out.

I put red thread lock on something once. Then needed to get it off. Broke two tool tips before having to Dremel the part off. Never again.

You need to heat the area to break the red Loctite. Just hit it with a propane torch for a moment, then turn the screw.

ben

Okay, so I'm getting a little tired of all the short course truck bodies and just want something a little different for a few races at the club. Is anyone aware of any other bodies (rally, bug, truck, whatever...) that fit the SC10?

Just curious.

Your supposed to use heat to remove red locktite. A soldering iron or heatgun should do the trick. I use red permatex threadlock alot, red Surelock if there is a gap between the parts that are being put together.


I made a custom body by pulling the stuffing out of a giant stuffed Skunk toy and stretching it over an old Jconcepts body and tacking it down with CA and Goop.

Like this only bigger:

Dude, you gotta post a vid of that running around the track.

ThunderbirdJunkie is cheap, so he didn't spring extra for shipping, but his new junk should be here tomorrow.
Because of his run-in (runout? Geddit?) with the Jconcepts wheels, he figures he'd be similarly unhappy with the JC tires. If the beadlocks won't mount up to the AKA tires he has now, he'll probably just glue the AKAs to the stock SC10 wheels he's got and hang on to the beadlocks.
You know you want to. Give in. Just do it.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Subaru-Impreza

My local course is getting a SC indoor track. I have a Novak GTB with 10.5, a Futaba s9551 servo and spektrum reciever. After I pick up a SC10, am I good to go? Is that servo torquey enough? How do the GTB's run in these cars?