I'm running Zippy 2s 4000mah hardcases. I need to add weight, about 2 ounces to bring my B4 up to roar legal 1500 grams. At 1530 grams I have to use the lite setup, with only 1 washer under the front ball studs.

Using the same battery in my SC10, moving it forward or back deos nearly nothing once I reset my shock preload.

I put the stock brace back in. I keep it all the way back against the stock brace bumps.

I drilled a countersunk hole in the chassis in that pit between the battery and shock tower. I put in a long FHS in there so I could add and remove steel washers as needed. That seems to affect the truck alot more than moveing the battery around.

I'm still experimenting with lite setups. So far soft black springs in the rear are looking good.

i have a question about the gear diff vs. the ball diff. which is better. im new to the gear diff so im not sure how to shim these or where the shims even go. is there an advantage to using the gear diff over the ball diff? any help would be appreciated, thanks

The gear diff is for heavy cars, the ball diff is for lightweight. The Sc10 falls right smack in the middle.

The ball diff gives better rear sidebite in highspeed sweeping turns. It also gets gritty fast and is kinda high maintenence. Every single driver who has said "my balldiffs are allways smooth" has nearly allways had a gritty diff when I pick up their car. "Smooth diff" seems to be an urban legend in offroad. I'll belive it when I see it.

The gear diff can handle more power. Stays smooth.

By now you shouldn't have to shim a Sc10 diff. Probally can just run it and if it kabooms, get another. Eventually you'll get your hands on one of the newer diff kits that has this problem resolved.

There is a shim on each side of the outdrives. The diff side gear goes on the outdrive. You can move one of the outside outdirve shims inside the diff, behind the big shim. This moves that outdrive in a little pushing the side gear in closer and tightening the internal dif mesh. I only shimmed one side only.

I assembled my truck about 2 weeks ago, and one of the rod ends busted then. I ca-ed it up then, and it held up on my makeshift backyard track, too cold to go to the track. Then i was jumping and landing on concrete today, inside a shop. Still held up. I was drifting around a corner, and hit some 1 cm thick carpet with the right rear, the wheel where the busted rod end is, and it exploded. So I thought that i must have assembled it wrong, I pull the rod end on the other side off the turnbuckle, straight off, didnt twist it, and inspected it. Snapped it back on, and it exploded, shattered, whatever you want to call it. These rod ends that associated manufactures just seem to be very strong, but brittle, the have no flex. Anyone know what I should replace them with? The rpm ones have any flex? Any other extremley brittle parts on the sc10 that I should know about?

Cold weather has a major effect on the strength of plastics. They will break way easier, the colder it is.

the stock ball cups do suck use the jconcepts ones

or dont crash....

Is anyone running sway bars? seems to work good for larger tracks

Ill probably get one soon

have you ever race on a layed back firday night of corr it not the crash it the pile up and runing into each other for the hell of that breaks shit.
i tryed it and did not like it at all i found that i could get my truck to go faster with out

I have read a few times on this thread that people are having problems with their rear shocks. I have the RTR version, and after about 3 runs, my shocks were almost completely empty. The shaft is also stupidly loose in the shock body. I rebuilt the shocks - but hopefully not after every couple of runs.

So, what's the verdict? Have people found something better? I'm happy with the performance of the truck, but I must admit, I'm a little annoyed at this truck after having to change a few things to make it more 'durable'.

Like others have said, the turnbuckles on the RTR are pathetic.

The Gear diff had to be shimmed - of course after assuming that would be ok and stripping it.

Now the shocks.


Thanks for your answers

it is the stock shock bodies. they dont hold the retainers far enough down to seal the rings around the shaft. i got new bodies off a friend that did not use them and it solved the problem. i replaced the seals and shaft before the body, and it was the body

Our local track is going to allow any kit tire for next year for the SC class. Has anyone experimented the various kit tires? Our track is typically a wet, loose surface track, so I was trying to see what would work best for this type of surface. I was thinking of trying the Blitz tires, but didn't know if these would be any better than the Associated tire. Any thoughts?

what turnbuckles do i get if i use the jconcept ball ends. Are the rear, front, and steering turnbuckles are different lengths, arent they? I'll either be buying jconcepts or rpm. I'm buying the new rpm arms for sure too.

The stock sc10 tires aren't all that bad. Drive 'em on pavement to get the hard layer off. Simple green to clean and buggy grip will get them close.

The slash tires are kinda stinky in my area. Indoor wet clay. Were allowed to use Proline Bowties.

The new 4wd Slash has an interesting tread attern and my bet is they will soon have those tires in Traxxas's new soft compound.

Make sure your truck isn't underweight.





The Rpm rod ends are good once you get an hour or so of drive time to loosen them up. You can use the standard turnbuckles as they are tough and really not that heavy. Be sure to grease the threads good or you won't be able to adjust them without popping off. Or you can upgrade to T4 FT ti buckles or Lunsford and Rpm ends.



I'll be trying some experiments with the Sway bars as soon as my Tekin RS gets repaired. I think we'll have to use softer green springs in front and black in the rear to take advantage of the sway bars. No way your going to see much gain with the stock springs, too stiff.

What's the best option for strengthening the front end? Ran into some idiot who crashed into the straight from the next lane over and split the front bulkhead. Should I just get more stock bulkheads, get the RPM bulkhead/A arm combo, or get an aluminum bulkhead? I like the idea of the RPM bulkhead/A arm combo, but do RPM arms flex too much and screw up the handling? I think if I just get an aluminum bulkhead, it will just make the arms break more often.