the thread on the axle is 8-32 so i orded sum nylon 8-32 nuts from amain , they look like the only nuts that will fit inside. im pretty disapointed with the whole set up to tell ya the truth . if the whole idea is to only be held on by the drive pins then its just stupid . i was gunna email them but cbf . also i had both grub screws come loose and the drive pins fell out .i hate that fact of a lil grub screw holding them in . so i used a M3 cap head bolt insted to hold in the pins. cos of the bigger head you can do them up really tight , no dramas since. i should have bought the AKA set up , wonder if they are held in with nuts or its the same sh%tty set up with the pins.

So the Novak 10.5/LRP combo that just arrived wouldn't have any notable advantage over the current Sidewinder 4600?

What Gearing are people running with a 13.5T Brushless motor and ESC. I have a Novak Havok setup in my SC. I was running a 75T spur with a 23T pinion and it was quick. I stripped my spur and was having all sorts of diff issues. I fixed the diff and put a 74T spur and 26T pinion. Today while messing around with the truck I was able to run it about 10 min before it shut itself down. It was definitely faster. Would that gearing make the motor overheat? Shouldn't the motor spin the same revs. but the different gears would affect the speed?

Oh, not racing, no tracks remotely close to me so it's just friends messing around in the woods/fields/parking lots.

For me, running a Tekin 13.5 motor and RS esc, using the Tekin Hot Wire stteings under version 203, I run 87 tooth spur and 18 tooth pinion. racing only, shorter technical track, but truck is very fast.

Some others in class run 81 or 84 tooth spurs and 20 and 23 tooth pinions, depends upon where the driver want the truck to have most power, or torque.

Your best bet is to try different variations, but use a temperature gauge to check temps on both motor and esc.

Hey guys. Just got my arm mounts in the mail. Comes with 2.5, 3, 2.5, and 4. I'm using the stock rear hub carriers. Which mount do I want to use to straighten the truck out since I am not using the 1.5 hubs? Thanks in advance.

i had the 4600 and sidewinder before and it was ok but i went to sensored and seemed like better reaction time but im sure 4600 is good also but it dont fall into the 10.5 class but would work in open pro 2 or something like that.... we ran 4600 in 10.5 class just cause so close but i think they are close in power wise good luck with 10.5 system im happy with mine

Good to know. It's just a basher truck.

Will throw it in and see what happens with the same gearing.

ft kit released yet?

Searching is your friend
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Race-Truck-Kit
make sure you scroll to the bottom

What's the equivalent kv to a 17.5t? It seems like the 3300kv rtr brushless is about the same speed as the 17.5t reedy radon 30,000 rpm (non brushless rtr).
It might be a different story once I get my Lipo batteries up and running (waiting for a balance block).

Actually the 17.5 is 2200KV with most manufacturers. The 3300 is more like a 13.5.

You will feel a noticable difference in your throttle input and braking. The exponential will make the truck alot easier to drive and witht the right gearing you will find lower temps and maybe even some longer runtimes...

a brushless 13.5 (3300kv) is close to a brushed 17t, a 17.5 (2200kv) is close to a 27t brushed motoer

are you talking about sensored vs sensorless? it is alot smoother, I mean alot, but you dont have the massive torque you do from a sensorless, but you dont need it in this truck unless you like to drive sideways. The senored system is less effiecient though dso you have to be a little more carefull selecting your gearing

yeah i am thinking the aka ones might have been a better option. i have got mine installed today.racing tomorrow so will yest them out. they are very wobbly on the axle.