tonyv2382

iTrader: (67)

Been busy dude. Just recently got a job and been running around doing interviews and paperwork...all the things a government job requires just to freakin hire some1 and Ive been going through this process for a long time now, and right now other things are a bit more important and take priority over racing. No $$$ no Hobby...feel me?
And when I did go for practice and to race I never dnf'd nor did I have mechanical problems ever. All I ever had a problem with in the car was Tekin electronics and 2 chipped ring gears that rango have now replaced with stronger material and hasnt happened since. Actually the last race my car was half ass due to some mistakes I made to the front suspension and I still made it through. Its a simple car man if people are breaking its not the car its gotta be the people working on them. Since I bought this thing I havent replaced a thing except a rear hinge holder from hittin that pole and a front Chub and steering upright from getting nailed in the air by a B4 and landing on my wheel. You are free to look at my spare parts box anytime Steve. Its full to the brim with stuff I havent even used.

To each his own man, Just cuz a few people cant seem to put 2+2 together doesnt mean it spoils the bunch. EVERY RC WILL CONSTANTLY BREAK IF THE PERSON MAINTAINING AND DRIVING IT IS A TOOL BAG.

plack75

iTrader: (6)

I believe so. The regionals are mar 20-21 I think. Not runnin e8 I converted mine back to nitro

SCD WldCrd

Would anyone lead me to the page number on this thread where can find the best replacement for Durango ball cups? Everytime I hit a pipe which at times is not serious my turnbuckles keep popping out.

tonyv2382

iTrader: (67)

Too many pages have discussed that so Ill ust tell you what Ive been using. I use long shank RPM ends with hpi or HB 4.3 studs. To use the RPMs youre going to have to open up the rod ends a bit. RPM say that their rod ends are a direct fit for 4.3 ends but they arent as I found out after I attched them all and the suspension was sticking. What I did was take a Tamiya ball stud and put it into the the rod end and "broke" the interior of the rpm end in a bit by rotating it a few times to open up the hole a bit...after that they were a perfect fit for the rpms and were free moving and hold on with a death grip. IMO the rpm ends have got to be the strongest on the market. If u want to avoid tha hassle of what I did you can find some ball studs that are a direct fit for the RPMs but have metric threading to fit your kit. But as I said earlier even though RPM claim that 4.3 studs are a direct fit they are not and need a lil breakin in before you attach them. So far all is well and doing this also eliminated a whole lot of play in all the links

Jason Pelletier

iTrader: (33)

Would you consider that a issue that led to a DNF ?

tonyv2382

iTrader: (67)

I honestly think u guys are expending a lil too much energy on what other people are doing. Besides, look at the bright side...the more we supposedly DNF the more opportunites u have to win so enjoy it

ronsand

These are a direct fit for the Team Associated TC5 ball studs

tonyv2382

iTrader: (67)

There ya go...easy fix. I just used what I had laying around from previous cars to make it work.

Jason Pelletier

iTrader: (33)

chill homie. Thats my first post

tonyv2382

iTrader: (67)

ya but u added some fuel, no need for that anymore dawg... feel me?

Jason Pelletier

iTrader: (33)

what fuel ?...

tonyv2382

iTrader: (67)

Nitrotane lol

tonyv2382

iTrader: (67)

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ml#post8658074

TraxxasPeter

iTrader: (21)

that thing is cool. it is wack though. a durango proto type build up with b4 parts and kyosho shocks??? what the hell happened lol

tonyv2382

iTrader: (67)

its a prototype dude...it was in development and made for testing with existing parts. Hence "prototype"