Moogumby

iTrader: (32)

the Search button worked better for me today. I found my answer.

Rawwolf

iTrader: (1)

Ok possible dumb question. Had a bad finish to my a-main on sunday. The negative connection on the rx8 side of the deans either came unsoldered or just broke half way thru the race. Then today when I went to fix it I found a loose tab on the motor. Would a loose tab on the motor cause excessive heat in the system(batteries, esc and motor)? It was hot here on Sunday and the motor was at 170(normally 150) after a couple of the quals and the speedo was at 4 lights till I put the fan on it.. Motor is a 4.5 sc4x running 16 pinion and stock spur. Also running 45 punch control on speedo and epa on radio turned down to 90. Trakpower 5600/60c 2s battery. Any help would be great. Thanks

AERob

The short answer is yes. Bad connections WILL make the motor and esc run hotter. If your connections look like bird droppings, then they need to be fixed. I would check and re-solder all your connections with a good iron. Twenty watts ain't gonna work.

Pulse_

60 watts iron + 60/40 solder + flux and nothing will EVER move

AERob

BTW, I want to thank Randy and Tekin for helping me with my RX8 at the Silver Dollar Off Road Challenge. I had the 1,2,6,7 lights on my esc. Randy took time out to troubleshoot and came up with a faulty esc. He replaced it to get me up and running again. Thanks, Randy! You saved my weekend!

Dob

Update:
Esc still doesn't arm unless I steer the car. Otherwise it has run flawlessly for two race days since my last post. Sensor test and all that jazz shows no issue. Disconnecting servo and steering via transmitter does nothing. I assume it's an esc issue, and don't want to continue running it in case it does fail. Any suggestions to trouble shoot would be great!


Original...
3 hole rx8 with 1900 in a Ve8. Coincidence or not, but after the last time I hooked it to hotwire I noticed that the ESC would not arm the motor unless I turned the wheels real fast via the transmitter. It then arms and finishes the race until I shut it down again. When I restart it again it does the same thing. Shake the wheels for 2 seconds and it fires right back up. I have steering and lights 1-2 and 6-7 are flashing on the Rx8. The motor also has a tiny little "tick". Dropping it, and banging it does noting. Only kicks in when I steer it. Reflowed all joints, and messed with the sensor cable.

Did some more testing to make sure it was something to do with the steering hitting a sensor cable or anything. It only arms when you shake the wheel fast 2-3 times. Did I miss an update where they put in some failsafe that arms the esc when you operate the steering or something ?

Moogumby

iTrader: (32)

Does anyone know how many Amps does a t8 1900 with an RX8 pull?

At my local track a lot of people are using 4s 20c 5000 Mah batteries and I want to make sure there is enough amps there for the motor and battery before I try that set up.

I used to use 40c batteries but if 200c will work I would like to try.

Moogumby

iTrader: (32)

Have you tried a different motor ?

Are there any error lights on the esc before or after it arms?

I had a similar issue and came to find out that my motor exploded internally.

Dob

Have not tried a new motor. LED 1-2 and 6-7 are on before I steer the car. Once it arms it runs without a hiccup. Turn it off, and starts all over again. Can't imagine the motor has any severe internal damage as it runs like the day it was new. There's just some weird glitch somewhere.

Moogumby

iTrader: (32)

Well the error codes your ESC is showing wrong motor type , so when you hooked it up to your computer what motor type does it show? it sounds like you may have it on a brushed mode. here is the list from Tekin's website to verify against.

BL-FW: Brushless motor, forward only with brakes.


BL-F/R: Brushless motor, forward to immediate reverse (recommended for rock crawlers ONLY.)


BL-DL: Brushless motor, forward with reverse delay. Both forward and reverse are enabled, with a delay going from forward to reverse. This is the safest for your transmission if you wish to have reverse.


BR-FW: Brushed Motor, forward only with brakes.


BR-F/R: Brushed Motor, forward to immediate reverse (recommended for rock crawlers ONLY.)


BR-DL: Brushed Motor, forward with reverse delay. Both forward and reverse are enabled, with a delay going from forward to reverse. This is the safest for your transmission if you wish to have reverse.


Since you have to spin the wheels that points to the wrong mode. I would try to go between the brushless modes and test. I hope this helps.

Dob

I appreciate the help, but there might be a misunderstanding. I'm not spinning the wheels to get it to arm. The esc will not arm until I steer the wheels via the steering servo a few times really fast. If I dies age the servo fom the linkage it's the same exact thing. Esc will only arm after actuating the servo. Rolling the car or turning the wheels by hand does nothing. The rx8 will not arm until I actuate the steering servo with the transmitter. I have quadruple checked all the settings through Hotwire. Checked for updates, full factory reset, calibration, sensor test, etc.

Moogumby

iTrader: (32)

Ahh ok ... sorry about that.

what servo are you running? have you tried a different servo or possibly a capacitor on your receiver?

Randy_Pike

iTrader: (6)

Unplug the servo, does the esc arm all the time?

Dob

Thanks for stopping in randy. If I disconnect the servo I cannot get the esc to arm.

Randy_Pike

iTrader: (6)

Really?

That's very odd indeed.

What radio system are we working with?

Which exact receiver? Servo?

Are you using a stand alone BEC?