Firehawk989

iTrader: (1)

I have been having trouble keeping the back end planted on the local clay track with the stock duratrax rear tires; my bx would just slide around all over the place no matter what I did with the suspension, throttle, etc. So I picked up some new rims and some proline bowties in the M3 compound. Now my problem is the opposite; the prolines work so well that I can't get the rear to slide out at all, even under full throttle. It makes the car easier to drive, but it's not much fun. I'm thinking I'll just upgrade the motor since the 20T that came with the car sucks anyway. I can't quite clear the triple that everyone else seems to have no trouble with, except the slash's of course.

Any other suggestions that might work, or supplement my current plans? I suppose it would be a good idea to upgrade the front tires as well, what should I get for those?

J_Fowler

iTrader: (16)

Maybe try stiffening up the suspension a bit? Mine seems to jump much better with 40 to 50 wt shock oil than the 25 wt I used to run.

tmail55

iTrader: (61)

When you changed rear tires you moved traction from the front to the rear. Put GOOD front tires on, the stock ones are too HARD just like the stock rear tires.

Tires are 90% of ANY setup!!!!!!!!

The BX speed control is at it's limit now. A GOOD RACE 27 will work great with your speed control. Any CO27 is good. Axiom sells good CO27's I had one when I race stock truck.

You didn't say what batteries you have. 4200 / 5000 NiHM's?

Speed Passion make a "Sport BL" system its a 13.5 >>> $100.00 complete! We run them in our Mod Slash's!!

THEN try this

==========

BX base setup

FRONT
A-arms just below level. (1/32 to 1/64 of a inch per side) looking from the front towards the back, of the bottom of the a-arms
Use a straight edge don't trust your eyes.

Shocks
Tower = top inner hole
A-arm = center hole (move to outer hole if needed)

Link
Tower = inner hole
Hub = 1 washer

Toe in
Toe = 0

REAR
Axles = level (looking from the rear of the BX)
Use a straight edge don't trust your eyes.

Shocks
Tower = top row center
A-arm = inner hole

Link
Tower = top inner hole
Hub = inner hole

Wheelbase
Rear hub = full rear

Slipper
Slip 1 to 1.5 RC truck length(s)
Put a second nut on to keep the setting.

Shocks
Oil = AE 30wt

Springs
Rear = AE Buggy/Truck Green
Front = stock

Spacers
Rear Inner = 2
Front Inner = 0

Camber
Front -1.5
Rear -2.0

Gearing
Spur 81 (try a 75 or 78)

IF you use a 75 center rear hubs.

Firehawk989

iTrader: (1)

Right, I figured the fronts would need to be changed as well. As for batteries, I have a Reedy 3200 lipo. That speed passion sport brushless system is tempting, I'll have to check it out.

Would I have to change my gearing if I went to a 27T motor?

Thanks for the setup tips!

starmag

Hi everyone i'm a beginner from the Uk, i've had my evader st rtr for a few years now but only got it working again a few weeks ago.

i had to replace the battery (mtroniks 4700mAH)to get it working and the motor (Hackmoto 15t 540) too,

I'm after some advice if i may:

Problem #1; the car takes a while to get going when wanting to go forwards from a standstill start and whiles moving, but when in reverse it picks up instantly and wheelspins! any ideas?
Problem #2; the spur gear has a few teeth missing, which new one do i need gearing wise?
Problem #3; sometimes the motor or something cuts out by itself and it wont move forwards or backwards, but the front wheels still steer. so i have to wait a while and steer the front wheels and sometimes give it a push and it will get going again, dodgy connection or esc? the motor is new and only had 3hrs use and the problem happened from new and still had the same problem with the old motor. any ideas?

Servicing; i've never serviced it! which parts should i service and how do i do carry out each task?

Handling; any ideas for a decent set-up?

Tires; the rears are bold as a baboons ass! so im guessing the fronts need replacing too, any recommendation? something cheep and cheerful

Brushless; Switching to brushless.. what do i need? any recommendations? something faster than stock but not crazy fast aka no wheelies! and how many £$£$?

tmail55

iTrader: (61)

You have a lipo!!!! Sweet!!!!!!!!

Lipo's eat brush motors!!!!!!!!!

Forget the 27T go brushless soon.

Firehawk989

iTrader: (1)

Haha, yea, I already had a lipo charger for my heli and the evader didn't come with a battery, so I just sprang for the Reedy lipo since they're so much easier to take care of than the nimh's. Not to mention the lighter weight and better performance.

Anyway, yea, I guess I'll have to start saving for that brushless system. haha

tmail55

iTrader: (61)

.

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starmag

problem #1
Ok so i switched over the connections on the motor but now forwards on the radio makes the car go backwards and visa versa, i tried adjusting the throttle on the radio but it doesn't make a difference, perhaps the throttle switch you reckon? where is it?

problem #3
the speed control is a duratrax sprint esc w/reverse. i took out all the connections on the receiver and pushed them in correctly and firmly but its still cutting out?? im stumped!

thanks for the help so far

Dr3wstx

I just got my evader st running a few months ago, I had all the same problems as you.

First thing you should do is re-calibrate your speed controller.
1. Turn on the esc
2. pull the radio trigger to full forward for 2 seconds
3. push the radio trigger to full reverse for 2 seconds and release
4. wait until the light turns green.

The stock ESC has a kind of launch control when accelerating. If you want to spin the tires off the launch, pull the trigger ever so slightly giving it power but don't let it move, then launch.

As for the motor cutting out, you have a bad connection somewhere. (mine was a melted tamiya connector) The ESC has lost power and it takes 5 seconds for it to self test and start back up. That is why it still steers but the movement is delayed.

starmag

righty o, so i tried re-calibrating the speed controller, done everything said, the green light came on and didn't fix the problem

this is deffinantly the problem, it cut out, i waited 5 seconds and it came back to life. but the tamiya connections aren't actually melted, i will replace them with deans one and hopefully it fixes the problem

thanks for the input Dr3wstx

kjt

^starmag...

I have the same issues. I just bought the truck last week. At first I couldn't adjust the throttle, it was reversed so I switched the motor wires. I was able to get fwd back and reverse, but there was a lag when I went fwd, and rev hooked up instantly.

Yesterday it kept shutting down, didn't know what the problem was, I wanted to smash the thing, but I later found a loose wire. I reversed my original wire configuration and wired it back to blue - blue, white - white. For some reason it works great. Fwd screams pretty good and rev has the lag. I don't know what happened?? But I'm happy with it. We'll see today if it stalls.

What motor can I upgrade to without going brushless and changing the tranny. Something that is borderline or should I just go brushless. This is all new to me, and I tried following this thread but kinda got lost with the upgrade procedure.

M2Racing

tmail55 said

Speed Passion make a "Sport BL" system its a 13.5 >>> $100.00 complete! We run them in our Mod Slash's!!

Who sells the Speed Passion products?

Thanks,
M2racing

tmail55

iTrader: (61)

Schumacher

tmail55

iTrader: (61)

Schumacher