SoldierCowboy94

was wondering if anyone had any sugestions on shock for the evader st other than stock

tmail55

iTrader: (61)

The stock shocks are Losi copies, the main weakness is the shock shafts they bend easily.

I'm not up on what Losi shafts that can be used as a upgrade OR IF Duratrax offers a upgrade. Will look into this tonight.

Shock oil front Losi = 30
Shock oil rear Losi = 30
Shock pistons = stock

Firehawk989

iTrader: (1)

Hey thanks alot for the race setup there, I'll definitely give it a try!

I have some Trinity 32.5 wt shock oil lying around and I already rebuilt the front shocks with it, tonight I'll take care of the rear shocks. I was surprised at how big of a difference the oil made with how the car handles jumps and rough terrain. Looks like I'll be placing another tower hobbies order soon!

Oh one other thing, when I rebuilt the front shocks with the new oil, one of them rebounds about a cm or maybe 1.5cm, but the other one rebounds about 3/4 of the full travel of the shock. Did I overfill it, or get an air bubble in there or something?

Thanks again for the tips!

tmail55

iTrader: (61)

over filled, back the cap off about two turns and push the shock shaft all the way in and you should have some oil seep out, wait a few seconds and screw the cap back in and check the rebound.

tmail55

iTrader: (61)

Duratrax doesn't have a upgrade for ST / BX shock shafts.

ST front shock shaft = 50mm x 3mm (50mm >> 1.9 inch)
ST rear shock shaft = 59mm x 3mm (59 mm >> 2.3 inch)

Could not find any good info at Horizon Hobby about Losi shocks to compare to ST's.

If any one can please share it!

SoldierCowboy94

ok i might just rebuild the ones i have and look to see what all is out there was wondering if the Associated has any that would fit the evader st

jbdub

Hey whats up. I'm new to this site. Recently ordered an evader bxp, haven't gotten it yet. I have enjoyed reading this thread, lots of useful advice. This will be my first electric car. I currently have a nitro stampede (junk), a nitro rustler, and an old rc10gt that I have been experimenting on with a supercharger (I haven't yet decided if it actually makes it go faster or not). Being that this will be my first electric, I wanted to get some advice. Will it make much of a difference if I fit my evader with a brushless motor and upgraded esc? I don't race so don't care about the rules. I just like driving the little things around and having fun with them.

Firehawk989

iTrader: (1)

Ok, got the rear shocks all rebuilt with the new oil, and bled the excess oil out of that front shock. Also tried to set the car up according to your suggestion, but the front shocks will not mount on both inside holes because they hit the front camber link mounts. I moved them to the middle holes instead. I adjusted the camber on the front and rear, but I'm not really sure how to accurately adjust it. I'm guessing there's some sort of camber gauge you can buy?

Judging by a simple drop test, I'd say the shock oil change alone is going to make this car handle much better!

tmail55

iTrader: (61)

The Duratrax (aka Losi) are easier to maintain than AE's.

The shock shafts are the only problem.

tmail55

iTrader: (61)

RPM makes a good camber gauge.

Until I got a camber gauge, I used a floppy disc (because I had them) as a gauge. Put the edge of the disk against the tire side at the axle. looking at the edge of the disk as it touches the tire there should be about 1/16 of a inch gap at the top close to the tire edge. That's about -1 and 1/2 degree camber

Disk >>> I/ <<< tire < should look like this

tmail55

iTrader: (61)

To go BL you have to have a BL ESC.

A stock Duratrax diff won't handle a lot of power. A good 13.5 would work well, with a 3200 to 5000 Lipo for yard / street fun without killing the diff.

I race a AE T4 with a Speed Passion esc w/13.5 motor, using a Core-RC 3250 lipo, I don't have any problem with enough speed on the track I race(s) at.

.

Firehawk989

iTrader: (1)

Floppy disk? What's that? Haha j/k

I attempted something like that with the side of my power supply box, but it has rounded edges and the side is indented a bit, so it wasn't too useful. I guess I just have to rummage through my stuff a little more to find something that's nice and square.

How often do you need to rebuild the shocks? Just when you notice they're not dampening very well anymore?

tmail55

iTrader: (61)

Try a CD case.

I check mine the next day after a race as I clean everything up. I normally race Fri or Sat nights and don't get home before midnight!

By moving them up and down in their up and down range to test for air in them, you will feel and hear the air if there is any, refill as needed. You don't have to remove the shock(s) from the truck/buggy, just move the a-arms up and down.

Once a month, this is based on one race a week, I take the cap off to see how gray (alum in oil) the oil is, please note this doesn't work with plastic shocks. Replace oil if there is any gray.

IF I have to refill a shock three weeks in a row they all get rebuilt. In four years of racing I only have had to do this two times because of leakage at the seals.

I rebuild shocks every six months.

SoldierCowboy94

ok ill check it out and see what all i can get or just rebuild what i have. thinking about gettin a second truck any sugestion on what all is good.

tmail55

iTrader: (61)

AE T4 or losi xxxt <<<< I race a T4