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Old 02-01-2009, 02:25 PM
  #691  
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Originally Posted by ArmandR
I have Duratrax 1 EXT, 2 ST pros,2 buggys, 1 ST Nitro.
all all the rest of my cars are 16 Traxxas
I find the Duratrax cars are easy to handle and tune in.
If abuse your RC cas you will brake them......
enjoy you Duratrax cars I do. If anyone has seup tips please let me know.
[email protected]

http://www.t3t4webservice.com/Dur1.html
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Old 02-01-2009, 05:13 PM
  #692  
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What's up Cheech. Met you over at RCU. This guy really knows his stuff, you should see the "The Evader Coalition" over there, it has an insane amount of posts in that thread, and I bet a good amount of the posts came from him.
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Old 02-06-2009, 08:01 PM
  #693  
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I already got the new motor for it just waitin on the new battery and a few other parts to come in then i can run it again
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Old 02-07-2009, 05:34 PM
  #694  
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Hey all, I'm a proud duratrax owner and a complete noob. I have a brand new EXB buggy and I broke it the first time I drove it. I hope some one here can help me out. Sorry in advance for the long post, but I wanna make sure you guys have all the details.

First the details of where and how:

I was in an open dirt lot with no grass to speak of. The dirt is loose and there were a few bumps and rocks as well. I pretty much drove it full throttle the whole time and went through a full 2k mah 6-cell and half of a 3k mah 6-cell. I changed cells when the car wouldn't go forward, but could still be steered. After the change, the car drove fine. Like any noob, I drove the snot out of it and now it's not going anywhere.

Where's what wrong:

1) The rear wheels spin when the car is off the ground, but the motor only spins and the car doesn't go when on the ground. Also, at low throttle, the car makes a grinding sound. Reverse still works fine with no noises.

2) Even after reversing the throttle and adjusting the throttle trim to max in either direction, the car wants to go in reverse when at rest.

3) No matter how I adjust the throttle trim, the car pulls to one side when trying to go straight.

However, even with those problems, I had a great time with it and badly want to get my buggy up and running again.
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Old 02-07-2009, 11:32 PM
  #695  
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Remove gear cover (two screws) and leave on ground while trying to go forward. See at which point things stop spinning. Here's the order:

motor,pinion,spur,slipper,inputshaft,idlergear,out drives,dogbones,axlepins,wheels. Somewhere along this trail you'll be able to pinipoint where the break is.
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Old 02-08-2009, 08:14 AM
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gulio, you are the man. I did exactly as you said and discovered the teeth on the spur gear were flattened out a little bit. I reset the gear mesh and adjusted the slipper clutch by the manual and it runs again. Thanks for the help.

Last edited by SunFury79; 02-08-2009 at 08:15 AM. Reason: left out detail
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Old 02-08-2009, 09:05 AM
  #697  
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Originally Posted by SunFury79
gulio, you are the man. I did exactly as you said and discovered the teeth on the spur gear were flattened out a little bit. I reset the gear mesh and adjusted the slipper clutch by the manual and it runs again. Thanks for the help.
First >> HAVE FUN!!!

Second >> Get another spur and use that one as backup.
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Old 02-08-2009, 10:19 AM
  #698  
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Well!! The Duratrax info page has gotten TO big!!!

So, we split it up,

1. Basic upgrades and repair

http://www.t3t4webservice.com/Dur1.html


2. Race Setup info

http://www.t3t4webservice.com/Dur1S.html

====

gulio

We added your "order" to find why a car won't move, to #1.
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Old 02-08-2009, 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by SunFury79
3) No matter how I adjust the throttle trim, the car pulls to one side when trying to go straight.
IF it's Steering;

Adjusting the steering trim

OR

IF it's traction at the rear wheels;

Loosen the slipper

Slipper should slip about 1 and 1/2 to 2 RC car lengths, where traction is the least!

There is a sound of a loose slipper you will need to listen for it, you may need to OVER loosen to learn the sound, then tighten the slipper.
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Old 02-08-2009, 12:13 PM
  #700  
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Originally Posted by MMT4
What's up Cheech. Met you over at RCU. This guy really knows his stuff, you should see the "The Evader Coalition" over there, it has an insane amount of posts in that thread, and I bet a good amount of the posts came from him.
hey whats up sorry i didnt notice this earlier for some reason and i must have said this at least a dozen times, i dont get all responses sent to me via email from this thread and its my thread lol.
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Old 02-08-2009, 12:19 PM
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hey all i just want to say thank you for keeping the thread alive and a special thanks to Tmail55 for the great tips and advice he has been giving, very appreciated.
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Old 02-08-2009, 12:59 PM
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Hey guys,

I got a new Evader BX for xmas, and I'm loving this thread! Lots of useful tips here. Anyway, I haven't been able to get much stick time with my buggy yet because of the mainly crappy weather in Vancouver, but I had a couple of great runs. So far I'm impressed with the durability of the car; I have hit a curb, pole, and a tree at fairly high speeds and so far nothing has broken. Also I found a page online that has a few more useful tips for the evader. http://www.usd.edu/~cgutzman/evader/

I got a Reedy 3200maH LiPo battery for the car since I already had a lipo charger for my heli, and it's fast with that battery! I'm thinking about getting a nice ball-bearing 19T motor for it to make it go just a little bit faster. Any recommendations?

Either way I can't wait to get in some time on a real track, there's an indoor offroad event coming up toward the end of the month near me. Looking forward to getting the car dialed in!
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Old 02-08-2009, 01:55 PM
  #703  
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Anyone have any specific advice or recommendations as to upgrading my servoes and radio. At this point, I don't know how to pick out servos that will work and if only certain ones work with certain radios etc.
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Old 02-08-2009, 03:03 PM
  #704  
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Originally Posted by Firehawk989
Hey guys,

I got a new Evader BX for xmas, and I'm loving this thread! Lots of useful tips here. Anyway, I haven't been able to get much stick time with my buggy yet because of the mainly crappy weather in Vancouver, but I had a couple of great runs. So far I'm impressed with the durability of the car; I have hit a curb, pole, and a tree at fairly high speeds and so far nothing has broken. Also I found a page online that has a few more useful tips for the evader. http://www.usd.edu/~cgutzman/evader/

I got a Reedy 3200maH LiPo battery for the car since I already had a lipo charger for my heli, and it's fast with that battery! I'm thinking about getting a nice ball-bearing 19T motor for it to make it go just a little bit faster. Any recommendations?

Either way I can't wait to get in some time on a real track, there's an indoor offroad event coming up toward the end of the month near me. Looking forward to getting the car dialed in!
Any 19t motor is good addition,
I like a quad mag motor, double! << Reedy
Have raced some Spec 19's that were GREAT!!! << Element

You will need a better ESC, that one will only go down to a 20 turn.

The main problem with getting BX to a race level is it's about 1 inch to long (wheel base) and there is no good way to change it. All the BX's I've had OR had access to we changed to a ST.

BUT *smile* try this;

Front
Shock Top = inside hole
Shock at Arm = inside hole
Kingpin = 1 washers
Link at shock tower = outside hole
Camber = -1
Toe = 0
Shock Oil = Losi 30 or AE 35
Shock Spring = AE OR Losi
AE #6493 BROWN = 2.80
Losi A-5129 Orange = 2.9
Arms = just below level

Rear
Shock Top = top inner hole
Shock at Arm = inside hole
Hub = middle hole
Link at shock tower = inside upper hole
Camber = -1
Shock Oil =
Losi 30 or AE 35
Shock Spring = AE or Losi
AE #6480 GREEN = 1.90
Losi A-5148 Yellow = 2.0
Dog Bones (axles) = level
Wheel Base = middle << adjust here first, front for more rear traction, rear for more steering

Spur = 81

====

Reason for AE or Losi spring is because you know the load rate so you can better tune by.

Don't trust your eyes when setting a-arm and dogbones use a straight edge
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Old 02-08-2009, 03:14 PM
  #705  
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Originally Posted by chajones721
Anyone have any specific advice or recommendations as to upgrading my servoes and radio. At this point, I don't know how to pick out servos that will work and if only certain ones work with certain radios etc.
Any metal gear servo is better even if you only get a AE S1903MG.

Hobbico has a low $$$ MG ball bearing servo CS-70. I used one for six months (still have it as a backup) before I got a HItec HS-625MG servo.

Any 2.4GHz type radio system is good, I have a Spekturm DX3.0 and DX2
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