RogerM

Damn, that isn't good to hear. I believe that the trick to getting a good diff with a caged thrust all happens before break-in.
I run the thrust washer assembly for a bit on by putting an old screw through the thrust and an old outdrive and running the thrust bearing in using a drill at slow speed. I then flush all the grease out and clean everything then re-grease and build the diff.

When I build up the diff I initially set it so that it is just a slight fraction tighter than what would allow it to slip when turned with a light grip between finger and thumb whilst holding the outdrives on screwdrivers through the slots.
I run that diff in built into the car, hold one wheel and run 30% throttle for 2 minutes then swap to the other side.
Back the diff off all the way then reset it by holding the screw and turning the wheel to find the desired tightness.~

If have found that the debris from running in a caged thrust bearing very quickly kills it under power in the car, even more so if the main ball diff is run in whilst in anyway tight.
The old school method of tighten it hard down and back off 1/2 turn doesn't work with these caged thrust bearings.


As has been said use the old 12mm lower spring platforms. You can stretch the springs over the ledge on the 13mm upper spring platforms (I recommend a small dot of CA glue to stop it popping off in use), flip them over (spring can drag on the threads though) or use the Schumacher upper spring platforms (same thread) as they have no ledge and a longer sleeve to guide the spring. I mainly use the first method myself.

RogerM

I was hoping to be talking about setup for dry astro today but sadly the track never dried yesterday :'(

Did give me chance to try a few more things on the wet setup and there will be an new one posted on CML very soon, found another 3 10th so back-back it is now nearly 1s/lap quicker than the B6.4 on the exact same tyres, wow.

mikeyscott

Weather is looking rubbish all through next week too - 4WD regional next weekend and current (all be it too far out) forecast is WET

Rettich

Thank you for the answer.
Can u please explain me how the flap with the 1.1mm hole in the front Piston works? How it is Made?
And is the Setup Sheet on CML b7d the latest one? For Carpet.

daz_75

Will it ever be dry here again

I cant see the servo weight on tmg where did you get it?

are these the blanks you talked about for the hinge pins?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/222892624...mis&media=COPY

Are there any positions the short ones would be a problem or longer ones for that matter?

A guy I was racing against last sunday had his gearbox implode on braking from high speed destroyed all the gears. Seem to be quite a few issues with the car

foosoomin

I think the teeth of top shaft still intact ? Because it's made of aluminum material

daz_75

Not sure he didnt go into too much detail. Wasnt happy tho

shortcut3d

iTrader: (1)

We obviously don’t know much. But anecdotally it sounds like the kit bearings may be a problem. I could only think a bearing failure would cause the transmission to implode. I highly doubt the idler gears are the cause since the kit ones are unchanged from the B6. Poor bearings could also explain the overheating.

motorXhead

iTrader: (7)

Built my kit and after i noticed that the inside of the front wheels rub on the a-arm and ball cup. I checked everything multiple times and had others look also and found nothing wrong with the setup. We compared it to another b7 (carpet) and found that my dirt has 5.0 axles and the carpet has 6.5 which dont rub. Anyone else experiencing this issue with the wheel rubbing? (I have tried different manufacturer wheels also)

daz_75

I think roger said he was going to change his to ceramic what brand would be best?

sosidge

Are you sure you are using 2wd wide front wheels and not 4wd fronts? The offset is different.

foosoomin

shortcut3d

The ball bearings that was provided by the company, is of ABEC-3 grade.


By the way, I threw away a few equipped 5x10x4mm ball bearings, which was used for idler gears., the quality of the ball bearings is not good.



Therefore I have ordered the ABEC-9 grade ball bearings, will use it on idler gears and top shaft

motorXhead

iTrader: (7)

Yes. I tried 2 different ones also. Really frustrating.

tony6187

is your steering rack on the correct way?

BRSracing

iTrader: (67)

I am running the HW G4 with Hobbywing ESC. I was running 72/29 with 52 degree of timing with no issues. The motor got a little warm a couple times after several minutes of run time. At was a little warmer than my 6.4 but not hot around 150 degree at the end of the run. If you had a thermal shut down after 3 or four laps I would say you got another issue other than the gearing. Even if your gearing was way off it would generally take more than 3 or 4 laps to get that hot unless you have a huge track. I switched my gearing to 75/29 and took the timing down to about 47 degree and the motor was significantly cooler and had just as much punch as before.