RogerM

I always run the sensor lead with the phase cables to the motor and have never had an issue. I prefer to do this as I have had a couple of sensor wires damaged when under lipo weights have moved etc.

RogerM

This is hard to answer as there is no point in doing any real testing as Schumacher tyres are the control at 95+% of the races in the UK.

Personally I think the Schumacher yellow compound is amongst the best there is for artificial surfaces, works well everywhere. My issue with the front tyres is that god awful sidewall design making them a pain to use.

If I had to choose any other tyre is would be the 6mic equivalents to the Schumacher tyres, they have a good compound that wears well and grips almost as well as the Schumacher, not better on the track but more cost effective due to the extended life.

daz_75

Weirdly the same exact sensor wire I used in my 6.2 is slightly too short and gets pulled out so just go over with the battery wires now. Not as tidy but does the job

BigBuckORamma

I use 1" ProGaff Gaffer Tape. Good abrasion and impact resistance. As well as pulling clean without leaving residue on the chassis or wires. Also has a nice matte black canvas look to it.

DaveW

iTrader: (1)

Tesa tape. You can find it by name along with all of their other fabulous products on Amazon. Used for wiring harness protection or repair. Stays stuck, comes off sticky free.

Use the tesa tape to cover your wires in either channel. Then add the battery weight plate on top of it. The scotch roll on sticky tape keeps the plate from moving around and the gap from the foams keeps from compressing the wires under it.

Yes if the car is hooked up and then you do this, you will feel a little more chassis roll as weight is shifted slightly up... but mostly on bigger packs. The low profile packs aren't as noticeable.


I use two of those in those spots.

And this is applied to the foams.

b.j.a

iTrader: (2)

Killer build man. Mine is super similar but you got all the details perfectly.

Pistol123

I have noticed for sandy astro tracks some of the UK drivers are adding the brass C block, I was wondering if a similar weight balance could be achieved by moving the motor back using a 72t spur gear. I am currently running 22/78, I can get a similar ratio running 20/72 but I think the motor would move back 3/4mm.

If I did the above and also moved the battery back would there be any advantage/disadvantage over the brass c block. Would it achieve a similar ftont/rear balance but with weight more central?

Thanks.

RogerM

I've not seen a single setup using the brass C, which have you seen?

Pistol123

Abe was running one yesterday at the EOE Regional and went very well. I had issues with forward traction before on the same track, my solution was to move the wishbones forward.

shortcut3d

iTrader: (1)

A couple aftermarket shock towers are now released. The -2mm towers really helped with the B6.4. With the B7 already carrying so much corner speed are these still a benefit?

Also there are a couple -4mm rear towers. Why so much for the B7 rear?

https://factoryfoote.com/product/fac...mm-rear-tower/

https://factoryfoote.com/product/fac...mm-rear-tower/

NickMG

Tommy Hall put a brass C block in at Herts the other week as well.

ChocoTaco73

iTrader: (5)

In his last vid Rivkin mentioned using the outside shock mount on the arm to help high speed stability in high speed corners. He had to unscrew the shock end and put 2mm of ext spacers so the piston wouldn't bottom out on the shock cap. The -2mm tower takes care of all that, no need for limiters or lengthening the stroke, plus it lower the cg slightly. Can't speak on the -4mm tower but might help on carpet, lowers the cg even more.

shortcut3d

iTrader: (1)

FWIW, I use TLR233062 as external limiter to avoid unscrewing the shock end.

ChocoTaco73

iTrader: (5)

They should be used together to get the droop back after going to the outer holes in the arms. If you want that droop back that is.

MrLean

iTrader: (17)

These are awesome too:

https://jconcepts.net/big-bore-shock...ravel-kit.html