1089LikesTeam Associated B6.1 & B6.1D thread
03-24-2020, 06:21 PM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the B6.1 and B6.1D Wiki page.   Features: Easy-access gear differential Differential height adjustment with 0, 1, 2, and 3mm inserts included New slipper assembly for better weight balance and shock clearance 3-gear Laydown Stealth(r) transmission for lower and forward CG Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite front shock tower with tower guard Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite rear tower, standard height Heavy-duty V2 rear axle with 67mm bones V2 springs for a more reactive and nimble feel Innovative rear arm with molded inserts for ultra-fine lower shock mount adjustment Molded spur gear guard to help protect body from damage Front and rear anti-roll bars limit chassis roll for increased corner speed Battery strap allows the use of optional turnbuckle-based braces Machined pistons included for better fit and smoother operation Aluminum rear clamping hex and front axle with laser etching Rear hubs feature large bearings and the easy-insert system to adjust camber link position and rear axle height One-piece shock bushing to make assembly easier Aluminum C and D arm mounts included for large range of anti-squat and toe adjustment Lightweight aluminum top shaft Factory Team upgraded ball bearing kit included (now oiled instead of greased for less drag) JConcepts(r) B6 clear body and wing included Steel chassis weight Shortened, 7075 aluminum chassis   Features: Easy-access ball differential Differential height adjustment with 0, 1, 2, and 3mm inserts included New slipper assembly for better weight balance and shock clearance 3-gear Lay Back Stealth(r) transmission for lower and rearward CG Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite front shock tower with tower guard Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite rear tower, long Heavy-duty V2 rear axle with 67mm bones V2 springs for a more reactive and nimble feel Innovative rear arm with molded inserts for ultra-fine lower shock mount adjustment Molded spur gear guard to help protect body from damage +1 steering block arms optimize feel on dirt tracks Battery strap allows the use of optional turnbuckle-based braces Machined pistons included for better fit and smoother operation Aluminum rear clamping hex and front axle with laser etching Rear hubs feature large bearings and the easy-insert system to adjust camber link position and rear axle height One-piece shock bushing to make assembly easier Aluminum C and D arm mounts included for large range of anti-squat and toe adjustment Lightweight aluminum top shaft Factory Team upgraded ball bearing kit included (now oiled instead of greased for less drag) JConcepts(r) B6 clear body and wing included Shortened, 7075 aluminum chassis Setup Sheets and other documentation Setup sheets for both cars: Piston Drills:
Aftermarket Upgrades: Parts List: Reference Guides (courtesy of Ray Munday and Roger M.): 
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06-04-2019, 12:56 AM
#2866
The middle medium size gear is the idler.
The idler, as part of the system of gears, indirectly effects the overall ratio, but also determines the direction of output gear AND the spacing between the shafts. If the size of the idler gear changed but the shaft stays in the same place, the input and output gears have to change accordingly, thus changing the ratio.
Last edited by Horatio; 06-04-2019 at 01:10 AM.
06-04-2019, 02:05 AM
#2867
If input and output gears are the same, then yes - but that is an assumption and coincidental - not the definition of what an idler gear is, like some were claiming.
The middle medium size gear is the idler.
The idler, as part of the system of gears, indirectly effects the overall ratio, but also determines the direction of output gear AND the spacing between the shafts. If the size of the idler gear changed but the shaft stays in the same place, the input and output gears have to change accordingly, thus changing the ratio.
The middle medium size gear is the idler.
The idler, as part of the system of gears, indirectly effects the overall ratio, but also determines the direction of output gear AND the spacing between the shafts. If the size of the idler gear changed but the shaft stays in the same place, the input and output gears have to change accordingly, thus changing the ratio.
There seems to be demand for an idler forum, this is the B6.1 thread, though...
06-04-2019, 04:45 AM
#2868
If input and output gears are the same, then yes - but that is an assumption and coincidental - not the definition of what an idler gear is, like some were claiming.
The middle medium size gear is the idler.
The idler, as part of the system of gears, indirectly effects the overall ratio, but also determines the direction of output gear AND the spacing between the shafts. If the size of the idler gear changed but the shaft stays in the same place, the input and output gears have to change accordingly, thus changing the ratio.
The middle medium size gear is the idler.
The idler, as part of the system of gears, indirectly effects the overall ratio, but also determines the direction of output gear AND the spacing between the shafts. If the size of the idler gear changed but the shaft stays in the same place, the input and output gears have to change accordingly, thus changing the ratio.
The idler gear was altered to accommodate changes made to the input and output gears which is driven by other design criteria. Like with the laydown gearbox, the motor position was decided first for weight bias, the diff height was selected to best match the cvd angles, then an ideal gear ratio was selected (or carried over), the input and output gear tooth count was selected based on clearances, then the idler was designed last to make every other design selection work.
06-04-2019, 09:34 AM
#2869
No. It is a valid assumption and not coincidental. The purpose of an idler gear isn't to change the ratio. An AE engineer didn't go into a meeting like, "Alright, I want to use a 26 tooth idler gear. Let's move the motor to accept this design decision. If you don't like it, feel free to send a strongly worded email that you BCC everyone else on."
The idler gear was altered to accommodate changes made to the input and output gears which is driven by other design criteria. Like with the laydown gearbox, the motor position was decided first for weight bias, the diff height was selected to best match the cvd angles, then an ideal gear ratio was selected (or carried over), the input and output gear tooth count was selected based on clearances, then the idler was designed last to make every other design selection work.
The idler gear was altered to accommodate changes made to the input and output gears which is driven by other design criteria. Like with the laydown gearbox, the motor position was decided first for weight bias, the diff height was selected to best match the cvd angles, then an ideal gear ratio was selected (or carried over), the input and output gear tooth count was selected based on clearances, then the idler was designed last to make every other design selection work.
06-05-2019, 07:40 AM
#2870
Sorry to star such a war. It became obvious to me after the first reply that no matter how many teeth there are on the idler, the number of teeth it spins on one side is the same as on the other side.
This inspired me to look up the definition. According to Merriam-Webster: a gear placed between a driving and a driven gear to transfer motion without change of direction or gear ratio.
I see that the rest of your post seemed to try to explain that the size of the idler gear either determines, or is determined by, the distance between the two drive gears. That makes perfect sense. The different sizes of idlers needed for the different transmission configurations is because of the different distance. Different tooth count to maintain the same pitch.
This inspired me to look up the definition. According to Merriam-Webster: a gear placed between a driving and a driven gear to transfer motion without change of direction or gear ratio.
I see that the rest of your post seemed to try to explain that the size of the idler gear either determines, or is determined by, the distance between the two drive gears. That makes perfect sense. The different sizes of idlers needed for the different transmission configurations is because of the different distance. Different tooth count to maintain the same pitch.
06-05-2019, 08:21 AM
#2871
Sorry to star such a war. It became obvious to me after the first reply that no matter how many teeth there are on the idler, the number of teeth it spins on one side is the same as on the other side.
This inspired me to look up the definition. According to Merriam-Webster: a gear placed between a driving and a driven gear to transfer motion without change of direction or gear ratio.
I see that the rest of your post seemed to try to explain that the size of the idler gear either determines, or is determined by, the distance between the two drive gears. That makes perfect sense. The different sizes of idlers needed for the different transmission configurations is because of the different distance. Different tooth count to maintain the same pitch.
This inspired me to look up the definition. According to Merriam-Webster: a gear placed between a driving and a driven gear to transfer motion without change of direction or gear ratio.
I see that the rest of your post seemed to try to explain that the size of the idler gear either determines, or is determined by, the distance between the two drive gears. That makes perfect sense. The different sizes of idlers needed for the different transmission configurations is because of the different distance. Different tooth count to maintain the same pitch.
06-05-2019, 08:27 AM
#2872
The hard plastic is much more brittle, I only run the std material arms. So far have not broken one. Worst case....B6 arms also fit a 6.1, you just lose the 2 inner shock mount adjustment holes....you'd have to custom drill them.
06-05-2019, 10:09 AM
#2873
First, try soaking them in hot (yet non-boiling) water for 12 hours overnight. i.e. Boil water, pull off heat, insert arms. You will probably get some benefit but not experience as much shrink and warp as if you get the material closer to the melting point.
The hard plastic is much more brittle, I only run the std material arms. So far have not broken one. Worst case....B6 arms also fit a 6.1, you just lose the 2 inner shock mount adjustment holes....you'd have to custom drill them.
The hard plastic is much more brittle, I only run the std material arms. So far have not broken one. Worst case....B6 arms also fit a 6.1, you just lose the 2 inner shock mount adjustment holes....you'd have to custom drill them.
06-05-2019, 12:56 PM
#2874
06-05-2019, 03:01 PM
#2875
06-05-2019, 05:09 PM
#2876
Sorry to star such a war. It became obvious to me after the first reply that no matter how many teeth there are on the idler, the number of teeth it spins on one side is the same as on the other side.
This inspired me to look up the definition. According to Merriam-Webster: a gear placed between a driving and a driven gear to transfer motion without change of direction or gear ratio.
I see that the rest of your post seemed to try to explain that the size of the idler gear either determines, or is determined by, the distance between the two drive gears. That makes perfect sense. The different sizes of idlers needed for the different transmission configurations is because of the different distance. Different tooth count to maintain the same pitch.
This inspired me to look up the definition. According to Merriam-Webster: a gear placed between a driving and a driven gear to transfer motion without change of direction or gear ratio.
I see that the rest of your post seemed to try to explain that the size of the idler gear either determines, or is determined by, the distance between the two drive gears. That makes perfect sense. The different sizes of idlers needed for the different transmission configurations is because of the different distance. Different tooth count to maintain the same pitch.
I apologise however if the subject matter caused the thread to drift a little - I appreciate this is the 6.1 thread not an idler gear thread. My bad.
06-10-2019, 02:30 PM
#2877
My ghetto DIY fan mount that I put on my B6.1d finally broke on Saturday. I ran last qualifier and main without the fan. It was really doing it's job well, motor went from cool to the touch after 10min runs to kinda warm (about 130F on the can) after 5min heat.
I decided to just order the schelle battery brace mount I had designed it after, looks pretty simple to just mount to the battery brace. It should fit on the stock brace right? or is the included screw too short?
Also switching to 21.5T sportsman it looked fun. Many of them were running faster lap times than I was in 17.5T so slowing down to work on my driving and setup is likely best.
I think I want to switch to laydown as the grip at SDRC is good, is it just a case and an idler gear? or does the shaft need to be replaced as well?
I decided to just order the schelle battery brace mount I had designed it after, looks pretty simple to just mount to the battery brace. It should fit on the stock brace right? or is the included screw too short?
Also switching to 21.5T sportsman it looked fun. Many of them were running faster lap times than I was in 17.5T so slowing down to work on my driving and setup is likely best.
I think I want to switch to laydown as the grip at SDRC is good, is it just a case and an idler gear? or does the shaft need to be replaced as well?
06-10-2019, 02:57 PM
#2878
My ghetto DIY fan mount that I put on my B6.1d finally broke on Saturday. I ran last qualifier and main without the fan. It was really doing it's job well, motor went from cool to the touch after 10min runs to kinda warm (about 130F on the can) after 5min heat.
I decided to just order the schelle battery brace mount I had designed it after, looks pretty simple to just mount to the battery brace. It should fit on the stock brace right? or is the included screw too short?
Also switching to 21.5T sportsman it looked fun. Many of them were running faster lap times than I was in 17.5T so slowing down to work on my driving and setup is likely best.
I think I want to switch to laydown as the grip at SDRC is good, is it just a case and an idler gear? or does the shaft need to be replaced as well?
I decided to just order the schelle battery brace mount I had designed it after, looks pretty simple to just mount to the battery brace. It should fit on the stock brace right? or is the included screw too short?
Also switching to 21.5T sportsman it looked fun. Many of them were running faster lap times than I was in 17.5T so slowing down to work on my driving and setup is likely best.
I think I want to switch to laydown as the grip at SDRC is good, is it just a case and an idler gear? or does the shaft need to be replaced as well?
06-10-2019, 03:21 PM
#2879
06-10-2019, 06:45 PM
#2880
Edited- Not getting into a gearing debate that's settled. Needed to refresh the thread first.
Last edited by Alexv2024; 06-10-2019 at 06:59 PM.
