112LikesTLR 22T 4.0 Race Kit: 1/10 2WD Stadium Truck
12-08-2017, 04:39 AM
#91
Tech Master
Are there any differences between the aluminum hubs and the new hybrid plastic ones apart from the material? I remember the 22 3.0 came with 1 mm spacers on the rear axles to push the shafts to the inside if required.
12-08-2017, 07:33 AM
#92
Originally Posted by kaistas
Sorry for the image quality, it's a hard angle to get with a cell phone.
Also, apologies for the mess. I'm also working on my 22 buggy (in the background)
Also, apologies for the mess. I'm also working on my 22 buggy (in the background)
12-08-2017, 09:37 AM
#95
Originally Posted by sksdean
kaistas your rear camber mount is on upside down as that is some of your problems and that is why the ball stud isn't going all the way down. That should help allot and will when you go to do your setup.
You're right, I didn't even catch that. I'll correct it tonight.
However, the ballstud does go all the way down on the inner side, it's on the outer side (on the carrier) that it can't go all the way down using the aluminum hubs, as it will contact the shaft and keep it from rotating. It's not a big deal, as I can add another 1mm shim when I want to move the ballstud out.
12-08-2017, 11:22 AM
#96
Originally Posted by kaistas
You're right, I didn't even catch that. I'll correct it tonight.
However, the ballstud does go all the way down on the inner side, it's on the outer side (on the carrier) that it can't go all the way down using the aluminum hubs, as it will contact the shaft and keep it from rotating. It's not a big deal, as I can add another 1mm shim when I want to move the ballstud out.
However, the ballstud does go all the way down on the inner side, it's on the outer side (on the carrier) that it can't go all the way down using the aluminum hubs, as it will contact the shaft and keep it from rotating. It's not a big deal, as I can add another 1mm shim when I want to move the ballstud out.
12-08-2017, 12:48 PM
#97
Originally Posted by Frank Root
Or, you can get ball studs that are shorter.
And since I race RC cars, I often end up not having any of that =P
12-08-2017, 04:34 PM
#98
Originally Posted by kaistas
Yeah, but stores usually want something in exchange for those. Most often currency of some sort. Preferably in dollars.
And since I race RC cars, I often end up not having any of that =P
And since I race RC cars, I often end up not having any of that =P
12-08-2017, 08:22 PM
#99
Originally Posted by RazorRC
OK, but your roll centers are going to be all different if you just add washers. Truck will definitely drive different and probably worse.
I'll get some when I can.
12-09-2017, 10:11 AM
#100
What is the running weight of this truck?
12-12-2017, 03:38 PM
#101
Tech Apprentice
Anybody seen any setups for this truck? Just curious about oil, Pistons , springs and any brass weights being used on it. Thanks
12-13-2017, 10:06 PM
#102
Originally Posted by Wg931
Anybody seen any setups for this truck? Just curious about oil, Pistons , springs and any brass weights being used on it. Thanks
12-13-2017, 10:11 PM
#103
Originally Posted by faqcya
What is the running weight of this truck?
12-14-2017, 10:08 AM
#104
Tech Master
Originally Posted by Wg931
Anybody seen any setups for this truck? Just curious about oil, Pistons , springs and any brass weights being used on it. Thanks
12-16-2017, 11:15 PM
#105
Built my kit today. Nothing to report. Went together without a hitch. Other than me swapping the caster blocks somehow. Still not sure how I managed that. Only thing I wish was different was the spur size. Only useful if you are running something hotter than a 10.5 really (and of course I running 13.5)
