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TLR 22T 4.0 Race Kit: 1/10 2WD Stadium Truck

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TLR 22T 4.0 Race Kit: 1/10 2WD Stadium Truck

Old 12-02-2017, 08:32 PM
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Anyone have problems with the transmission not spinning free even with no screws? I've double checked that the inserts are seated all the way and are straight, but there is still a lot of drag.
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Old 12-02-2017, 09:54 PM
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Originally Posted by CCristo
Anyone have problems with the transmission not spinning free even with no screws? I've double checked that the inserts are seated all the way and are straight, but there is still a lot of drag.
I seemed to remember hearing of similar issues with the 3.0 and 4.0 SR.
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Old 12-03-2017, 05:09 AM
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Originally Posted by CCristo
Anyone have problems with the transmission not spinning free even with no screws? I've double checked that the inserts are seated all the way and are straight, but there is still a lot of drag.
Make sure that inner slipper plate is not rubbing at gearbox opening.
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Old 12-03-2017, 06:42 AM
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Originally Posted by CCristo
Anyone have problems with the transmission not spinning free even with no screws? I've double checked that the inserts are seated all the way and are straight, but there is still a lot of drag.
everything on mine when building was spinning free. Im using the RTR gear diff for CRC 2 carpet and still free. I don't worry about what some say is "notchy feeling" it breaks in. Still need to finish up electronics install and paint work then its track time.
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Old 12-04-2017, 07:08 AM
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Thanks for the suggestions guys. Everything is seated correctly and the slipper plate is not rubbing on the case. At this point I'm going to assume the case is bad and will get a new once once they are in stock. It's just disappointing to run into these problems with a new kit
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Old 12-04-2017, 07:20 AM
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Originally Posted by CCristo
Thanks for the suggestions guys. Everything is seated correctly and the slipper plate is not rubbing on the case. At this point I'm going to assume the case is bad and will get a new once once they are in stock. It's just disappointing to run into these problems with a new kit
Welcome to the new TLR.....
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Old 12-04-2017, 07:45 AM
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Originally Posted by CCristo
Thanks for the suggestions guys. Everything is seated correctly and the slipper plate is not rubbing on the case. At this point I'm going to assume the case is bad and will get a new once once they are in stock. It's just disappointing to run into these problems with a new kit
Did you install the tranny into the truck yet?

Last edited by Frank Root; 12-04-2017 at 02:19 PM.
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Old 12-04-2017, 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Frank Root
Did you install the car into the truck yet?
I'd like to see pictures of this.
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Old 12-04-2017, 02:19 PM
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Originally Posted by faqcya
I'd like to see pictures of this.
Me too
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Old 12-04-2017, 02:53 PM
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Yes, the tranny is in the truck. I will say, it got marginally better when I bolted the shock tower on, but it's still not as free as I'd like
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Old 12-04-2017, 03:41 PM
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Originally Posted by CCristo
Yes, the tranny is in the truck. I will say, it got marginally better when I bolted the shock tower on, but it's still not as free as I'd like
Make sure the inserts and bearings are fully seated. Also, make sure the correct length screws are in each hole of the tranny on the bottom. If you run the 12mm screws into the holes design for 10mm screws, it'll push the plastic into the diff gear. Lastly, make sure not to overtighten the long tranny screw that goes through the chassis brace, tranny and motor place, it can pull the motor plate over and cause the case to deform and tighten the gear train.
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Old 12-04-2017, 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Frank Root
Make sure the inserts and bearings are fully seated. Also, make sure the correct length screws are in each hole of the tranny on the bottom. If you run the 12mm screws into the holes design for 10mm screws, it'll push the plastic into the diff gear. Lastly, make sure not to overtighten the long tranny screw that goes through the chassis brace, tranny and motor place, it can pull the motor plate over and cause the case to deform and tighten the gear train.
I’m having the same issue as CCristo. Which probably makes sense, since we bought our kits at the same place. Checked all the stuff you mention. Everything spins freely when I load all the gears into one half of the case. Attach the other half, and everything binds right up. Chris is a veteran at this, and a heck of a driver ... he builds/has built a LOT of kits, from all the manufacturers.

I’m hoping things loosen up after a couple battery packs.
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Old 12-04-2017, 06:26 PM
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Frank quick question. Im setting up for carpet so I built the trans with the option included inserts for high grip. Now if the rear hubs are not installed, because Im waiting for them to come in, would there be an issue with drive shafts being short in the outdrives? Can you or should you do one of these mods and not use the other. Like trans on not carriers. I saw a post I think on FB where someone did the carriers and complained about the bones popping out of the drives. You mentioned to him to be sure he used the correct inserts in the trans.
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Old 12-05-2017, 07:42 AM
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Originally Posted by freebird
Frank quick question. Im setting up for carpet so I built the trans with the option included inserts for high grip. Now if the rear hubs are not installed, because Im waiting for them to come in, would there be an issue with drive shafts being short in the outdrives? Can you or should you do one of these mods and not use the other. Like trans on not carriers. I saw a post I think on FB where someone did the carriers and complained about the bones popping out of the drives. You mentioned to him to be sure he used the correct inserts in the trans.
Yes, the bones will pop out when running mismatch diff height and hubs/axle height.
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Old 12-05-2017, 07:54 AM
  #75  
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You could try adding some droop limiters to your rear shocks, 2 or 3 mm. Running with a truck at low ride height on carpet, droop should not be much of an issue.
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