Hot Bodies Cyclone
01-24-2008, 08:14 PM
01-25-2008, 12:00 AM
There are many opinions listed in this thread on the problem with the Cyclone diff screw and what it takes to fix it. I have had very good results using the delrin diff (instead of the aluminum halves), the stock diff screw, a large amount of anti-wear grease applied to the diff screw shaft, spring, and thrust bearing, and a little bit of threadlock on the diff nut. I think it helps keep the diff screw from heating up and cracking. My $0.02 anyway.
Andy
Andy
I'll try it, any certain grease you use?
01-25-2008, 05:47 AM
Broken axle:
My axle broke at groove before the coupling. What is the best way to prevent this from happening? Besides stop hitting the boards, shims or cut the axle.
My axle broke at groove before the coupling. What is the best way to prevent this from happening? Besides stop hitting the boards, shims or cut the axle.
01-25-2008, 05:57 AM
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
anybody shop from www.rcmarket.com/hk? they have amazing prices and look pretty darn good!
Where do you put the 3x6 nylon shim and what will it do ?
Last edited by Lazer Guy; 01-25-2008 at 06:23 AM.
01-25-2008, 07:10 AM
Tech Adept
01-25-2008, 08:17 AM
anybody shop from www.rcmarket.com/hk? they have amazing prices and look pretty darn good!
01-25-2008, 10:50 AM
they have killer prices on all their stuff! amazing! Yes if you check out your insutrction manual, it shows a HPI nylon 3x6mm washer that goes in the thrust assy. My diff was missing this peice and it chewed up the thrust washer and made the diff clunk and break. You NEED that HPI nylon washer, ill ge you a part # when i get home, there cheap liek $1.90 for 10 of them.
01-25-2008, 11:20 AM
The washer you need for your diff is part #Z203. This washer is NOT nylon. It's made of steel. Nylon wouldn't last very long under pressure.
The washer is the last piece to slide onto the diff screw before sliding into the hub for assembly.
It goes -->thrust washer-->bearings-->thrust washer-->spring-->steel washer(Z203)
The washer is the last piece to slide onto the diff screw before sliding into the hub for assembly.
It goes -->thrust washer-->bearings-->thrust washer-->spring-->steel washer(Z203)
01-25-2008, 11:45 AM
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
Thank you ShaunMac.... I was thinking I might have been leaving something out. That shim is black and looks like it might be plastic and not steel, but steel it is.
Last edited by Lazer Guy; 01-25-2008 at 12:36 PM.
01-25-2008, 01:58 PM
my front suspension arms are binding when there are no shocks on them. I have the car stripped down and its an issue with the front pivot block. Its a brand new 0 degree block, i found a bent hinge pin and replaced it. I still have binding on both arms, im using the stock shims but if I remove the 2mm shim and use 2 .75mm shims (1.5mm of shim) its bind free but the arm can move back and forth just a touch (more than my liking).
please help.
please help.
01-25-2008, 02:39 PM
You need some .1mm shims to get rid of the play. Having to use different amount of shims for different degree pivot blocks(0, 1.0, 1.5, 2.0, 2.5, 3.0) is normal. As the toe changes, more or fewer shims may be needed to keep things slop free.
example: a 0 degree pivot block needs fewer shims than a 3.0 degree pivot block.
example: a 0 degree pivot block needs fewer shims than a 3.0 degree pivot block.
01-25-2008, 06:38 PM
You need some .1mm shims to get rid of the play. Having to use different amount of shims for different degree pivot blocks(0, 1.0, 1.5, 2.0, 2.5, 3.0) is normal. As the toe changes, more or fewer shims may be needed to keep things slop free.
example: a 0 degree pivot block needs fewer shims than a 3.0 degree pivot block.
example: a 0 degree pivot block needs fewer shims than a 3.0 degree pivot block.
I figured I would need some unique shims. Thanks man!
Also does anyone know where to get an alternative to the HPI diff grease? It looks silver/metallic, what If I get a bottle of high temp axle grease (red) from the auto parts store? This grease is $2.39 for a tiny tiny container.
Last edited by SammyZ; 01-25-2008 at 07:01 PM.
01-25-2008, 08:17 PM
01-25-2008, 09:25 PM
Hmm that is the wrong product. You want one of the black greases not diff lube.
I think Tamiya Anti-Wear grease is pretty good, although its a lot stickier so im not sure if its suitable for the thrust bearings on the diff or not.
There are a few products around, i doubt its the same as the stuff from the auto shop.
I think Tamiya Anti-Wear grease is pretty good, although its a lot stickier so im not sure if its suitable for the thrust bearings on the diff or not.
There are a few products around, i doubt its the same as the stuff from the auto shop.
01-26-2008, 12:11 AM
you doubt its the same stuff as the auto shop? how come?