Ballsie

Hi Guys,

I've just ordered all the new carbon chassis parts from RC model.

Remember to get the new aluminium chassis posts too!

Cheers.

STLNLST

iTrader: (32)

I'm new to the HPI car and will try the HPI diff lube once just to see how it feels and holds up but to this day the best diff lube I have ever used and still use is the Schumacher diff lube. It's slightly thicker than the standard lubed we get from AE or Losi or IRS. I rebuilt a diff and left it on it's side and went to work only to come home and see that it got a little warm in the room I left it in and the lube started to liquify (sp) and run down the out drive. I rebuilt it again but with the Schumacher lube and left it and came home to find no run off. I know the room didn't get that hot so imagine the hot asphalt in the summer. You want a lube that will somewhat stay in it's place. Like I said....I haven't tried the HPi yet but I plan to just to be able to compare it to the Schuie stuff. So far nothing else out there compares IMO.

Marcos.J

iTrader: (239)

thats what i always use!! How do you like the cyclone so far??

STLNLST

iTrader: (32)

I have not run the car yet. I'm on the fence for a couple of weeks for now. I don't know if I want to first run the car on carpet with a oneway or get it ready for asphalt with a spool. This weather out here makes me feel like I'm in Florida.... We'll see what happens in the next couple of weeks though. I might just say what the heck and go to the carpet track next weekend as I really need a RC fix

Lazer Guy

iTrader: (1)

I'M pretty sure you know the red cap silver lube is for the trust balls and CVD's. The white cap lube is for the diff ball's and stays where you put it very well. If you new that then don't read this.

STLNLST

iTrader: (32)

that i didn't know. Thanks for all the info. I'm got the car used from the local hotshot (he has four) so I will lean on him for everything. The LHS sells HPI/Hotbodies stuff so I will get the lubes to do the rebuilds from there. Any other info you can give would be greatly appreciated.

2-Bad

iTrader: (24)

I generally get 3 to 4 runs in 6 cell and 4 to 5 runs in 5 cell out of my diffs in Mod. I run the AE silcone grease (one with black writing on the tube) and have tried the Schumacher silcone grease with no extended runs. I preferred the AE as IMO it made the diff feel smoother.

I have also compared the HPI thrust grease (Red cap) to AE black grease and there is no extended runs with either.

I'm currently testing the new Jaad Racing Thrust and am happy to report that so far so good. I'm up to 10 runs so far and will be continuing with it today. It presently doesn't feel like a fresh diff any more, but is still smooth and not ready to be replace (all good).

Regards,
Peter

STLNLST

iTrader: (32)

Thanks for the info. I hope to get more runs out of the diff on a race day. I figure about 3 good practice runs and then 2 quals and a main so that's about 6 runs on one day of racing. Keep us posted on the thrust assy testing. I can't wait to run the car and be able to share input with you guys.

Lazer Guy

iTrader: (1)

If you are braking diff screws this will fix it. You need the nut from one to use on the other, the spring is stronger with this set also, I made up one with these parts and got over 25 runs and it still was good enough for some more runs. I put a shock rebound foam in last to keep the dirt out of the trust balls and the lube in as well.

BlackedOutREVO

iTrader: (67)

How ever, and what ever Scotty uses, his diff is always perfect...

Which is why he will be building my diff, and shocks lol..... And probably helping my set up my car

I am wondering what will last the longest also, since I hardly ever re build my diff... But that WILL change

pcar951

iTrader: (23)

I'm getting 20-30 runs from my diffs on carpet. I find Cyclone diffs ultra smooth when built correctly, I think it's the oversized thrust balls. I use Associated black grease on the thrust and HPI / Schumacher / Xray or Stealth lube on the diff balls, depending on the action I want for the front diff. I've only ever broken one diff screw, cause i over-tightened it. I've seen guys try to adapt a heavier diff screw and T nut but, the larger T nut interferes with bone as the suspension compresses. I've tried the stick on dust covers but they don't work for me (they stick to the outdrive as well as the lip on the pulley). I'm wet sanding my drive rings with #800 and using all ceramic balls, very very smooth.

SammyZ

iTrader: (138)

edit

SammyZ

iTrader: (138)

the manual doesnt say how tight the diff should be, all they say is "make it tight so you cant spin the pulley". Is that it? How many turns out from fully compressed is the general rule of thumb?

I know with AE diffs its 1/4 turn backed out.

Also when you guys rebuild your diffs, do you re-use the parts then just clean and re-lube? or are you using new thrust washers, thrust balls, diff balls, and d-rings?

I only use steel balls because i can get them for .01 cents each.

BlackedOutREVO

iTrader: (67)

You put the diff together, and put it in the car, and tighten it till you cant make the pulley slip, you want the diff as loose as possible... But if it slips, that just makes your diffs crunchy fast.....

LOSI123

iTrader: (63)

with the diff stickers you are suposed to put some thrust greese on the outdrive so the sticker doesnt stick to that part and hinder the diff action....

they work real good for me