Hot Bodies Cyclone
12-22-2009, 11:00 PM
12-23-2009, 10:57 AM
is there an aluminum 6 degree castor block that you can buy for the cyclone, or would any other work, e.g. xray etc.
12-23-2009, 11:28 AM
Hi Korey,
Finally installing new DCJ's and noticed they are assembled dry. What lube are you guys running? Do you recommend shrink wrap over the pins?
Thx,
Mike
12-23-2009, 11:52 AM
If I was handed a Moore-Speed car here's what I'd buy to go with it:
-Pro-Spec Diff (beefier, longer lasting between rebuilds)
-FRP Rear Plate (more flex than the heatsink plate, more grip)
-18T pulley and belt assemblies (easier to gear BL, smoother, less drag than the 16T ones)
-1.0, 1.5, 2.0 degree pivot blocks for more tuning options. (arm sweep, rear toe)
These items aren't needed, but do have their advantages.
Adjustable chassis flex on the TC is achieved by adding stand-offs between the topdeck and the chassis. I haven't seen this used very often and not having it as a tuning aid isn't going to leave you out to dry. You could buy the TC top deck and ATC stand-offs and mount them on your car. You would need to drill mounting holes on the chassis. But I would save your money and stick with the standard top deck that comes with the Moore Speed with no stand-offs.
-Pro-Spec Diff (beefier, longer lasting between rebuilds)
-FRP Rear Plate (more flex than the heatsink plate, more grip)
-18T pulley and belt assemblies (easier to gear BL, smoother, less drag than the 16T ones)
-1.0, 1.5, 2.0 degree pivot blocks for more tuning options. (arm sweep, rear toe)
These items aren't needed, but do have their advantages.
Adjustable chassis flex on the TC is achieved by adding stand-offs between the topdeck and the chassis. I haven't seen this used very often and not having it as a tuning aid isn't going to leave you out to dry. You could buy the TC top deck and ATC stand-offs and mount them on your car. You would need to drill mounting holes on the chassis. But I would save your money and stick with the standard top deck that comes with the Moore Speed with no stand-offs.
12-23-2009, 04:18 PM
Tech Adept
12-23-2009, 11:48 PM
-Korey
12-23-2009, 11:48 PM
12-24-2009, 08:56 AM
Hiro uses AE Black grease. I like to use a drop or two of that much more V-made joint lube. I use bearing oil as well. I think it works better if you make sure to put a drop or two in every run. I haven't put shrink wrap around mine, and I haven't had any problems, but it wouldn't hurt I guess.
-Korey
-Korey
12-24-2009, 08:17 PM
hi there,
1) wat bodyshell did hara use at the Futaba Cup recently at thailand? anyone mind to also share a lil about his car setup?
2) ive read about barry's modified FR toe block to widen the distance between the arm hinge to prevent roll and hence to use softer springs. Just curious to ask could this be also achievable simply by using a thicker antiroll bar (i.e. the black one) instead of modifying the FR toe block?
Thnks in advance
1) wat bodyshell did hara use at the Futaba Cup recently at thailand? anyone mind to also share a lil about his car setup?
2) ive read about barry's modified FR toe block to widen the distance between the arm hinge to prevent roll and hence to use softer springs. Just curious to ask could this be also achievable simply by using a thicker antiroll bar (i.e. the black one) instead of modifying the FR toe block?
Thnks in advance
12-24-2009, 11:02 PM
You could try a thicker swaybar, it should feel somewhat similar. I think the 1.6mm swaybar up front makes the car too lazy though. It also doesn't let the suspension work quite as well in the bumps that way. So the wider hinge pin setup is usually better.
-Korey
-Korey
12-25-2009, 12:56 AM
Tech Adept
12-27-2009, 06:45 AM
what do you guys use to balance the wight of your car? lipo plates o just lead weights? my problem is when I would set my ride height and all the rituals involve, then after all that stuff I would set it on my MIP tweak station , it would be way( bubble) of specially towards where the battery is, considering I have already balance the car with Pb weights. need advice.
12-27-2009, 08:56 AM
what do you guys use to balance the wight of your car? lipo plates o just lead weights? my problem is when I would set my ride height and all the rituals involve, then after all that stuff I would set it on my MIP tweak station , it would be way( bubble) of specially towards where the battery is, considering I have already balance the car with Pb weights. need advice.
) Your shock collars should also be about the same height after the tweak and ride height is set assuming there isn't any bent or tweak parts. Stay tuned for Korey to respond if I missed anything. He is to HB what spell check is to email
12-27-2009, 11:36 AM
You could possibly have a bent hinge pin or bulk head if it's that far off. Also try loosening the screws on the top deck and bottom of the bulk heads and reset them. I have been using a PPD plate and it takes 99% of any tweak out of the chassis. One thing I did see on one of my old chassis was that it no longer would sit flat when it was set on a flat surface. It had a slight rock to it possibly from the crashes I had. (SHUT UP SCOTTY) Your shock collars should also be about the same height after the tweak and ride height is set assuming there isn't any bent or tweak parts.
Stay tuned for Korey to respond if I missed anything. He is to HB what spell check is to email
) Your shock collars should also be about the same height after the tweak and ride height is set assuming there isn't any bent or tweak parts. Stay tuned for Korey to respond if I missed anything. He is to HB what spell check is to email
12-27-2009, 06:18 PM
will the cyclone s ( 3racing version) work with the black ed. cyclone?