649LikesTeam Associated B6 & B6D thread
06-07-2017, 10:46 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!
Quick links to all the sections on the first page! Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here! Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials How to's and build-specific posts Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D: Laydown conversion Instruction Manuals: B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber: Sanding and sealing carbon fiber Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4 Charts for Quick reference:         1) put inner bearing in hub 2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle 3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier 4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier 5) push outter bearing into hub carrier using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.  I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM). Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter: I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.
The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right. 
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10-06-2016, 12:48 AM
#3572
This is the suggestion so that you can remember that the diff bolt head is on the same side as the slipper clutch. If this didn't bother you it could be run the other way, but I can't see why someone would want to.
10-06-2016, 01:47 AM
#3574
i'm having an issue with my laydown transmission .. It's hard to explain but with no motor or anything I feel like it doesn't not rotate smoothly .. I thought at first it was how I put the diff in. I'm running a ball diff and currently have the head the opposite way. The instructions call for the head to be in the direction of the spur but looking at the B5M 3 gear instructions .. it calls for the head the opposite way. Is there a reason why you'd do it differently with the laydown?
10-06-2016, 03:05 AM
#3575
I agree with this. I had a post earlier in this thread with a pic that shows what happens, but basically the longer screw pushes the diff case material up into the diff gear causing binding.
10-06-2016, 07:16 AM
#3577
Thanks I'll have to give that a shot. I don't think I'm over tightening since I'm well aware it's metal into plastic.. I'll fool around with the screws and see what the deal is. Ive built aND rebuilt a few diffs and transmissions to spec without issue except for this one.. hopefully it's legit just a screw length issue.
10-06-2016, 07:32 AM
#3578
10-06-2016, 07:43 AM
#3579
If anyone is looking for a low-medium traction, smaller layout with a mix of speed corners and 180's, here is my setup. Running in a open class using a 17.5t.
10-06-2016, 07:43 AM
#3580
I've bent a few titanium turnbuckles and broke a bulkhead when running a 10.5. That's about it.
10-06-2016, 09:19 AM
#3581
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Because people need them to hold their hand and tell them what to do. Previous AE manuals didn't specify which way to put the diff in, because it doesn't matter. A million people then asked "which way does my diff go in?" Now, they just tell you which way to put it in so people stop asking.
10-06-2016, 09:59 AM
#3583
I actually recall a discussion years ago with someone at AE (called in for a charger issue, yeah that long ago) and they mentioned something about if you put the screw on the wrong side the diff could potentially "spin open". It mainly came up towards the end as I was curious why I was tightening down my diff more than I thought I should have been. I flipped it to the correct "side" and no issues afterwards.
however, on the truck version I didn't have the issue, so it could have just been that nut and bolt. So who knows, maybe its more so when things are worn to watch for.
Right now debating getting the gear diff. I have the pucks based on what came with my vehicle, but ball diff installed from what I can tell. Is there any place that has the MIP outdrives specific for the gear diff in stock?
however, on the truck version I didn't have the issue, so it could have just been that nut and bolt. So who knows, maybe its more so when things are worn to watch for.
Right now debating getting the gear diff. I have the pucks based on what came with my vehicle, but ball diff installed from what I can tell. Is there any place that has the MIP outdrives specific for the gear diff in stock?
10-06-2016, 10:08 AM
#3585
Tech Regular
I like Gear Diffs better myself, so after I destroy this ball diff, ill buy the Gear diff kit.
If I was running it offroad id by the laydown transmission also, but it may run fine without it I dunno I'm racing it today finally on hard packed clay dirt oval.
If I was running it offroad id by the laydown transmission also, but it may run fine without it I dunno I'm racing it today finally on hard packed clay dirt oval.